Oil catch can?

[LSXTC]

Just installed my RX monster can and clean side seperator this weekend.

 

I'm happy with it, however I am unhappy that not enough hose was included, not enough hose clamps, insufficient mounting bracket, and lacking the correct and needed hose couplings. I'm going to have to go back through it at some time and clean it up with the correct hose sizes/lengths and fittings.

 

In my opinion there is far too much crossing over from 3/8" hose to 5/8" hose to 3/4" hose with this kit. I understand they are not application specific, but I paid damn good money for this setup and I expect it to be right.

 

How I'm going to correct it is:

3/8" hose from the valley nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can

3/8" hose from the upper nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can.

The secondary vacuum line going from the can to the Airaid intake tube will remain 5/8" and I'll get a 5/8" MNPT 90* fitting to screw in to the intake tube so that it can go direct from the can to the tube with no neck down.

The hose from the CSS to the intake tube is going to be 3/8" the whole way, I just need to get a 3/8" MNPT fitting for the intake tube.

 

The mounting bracket I made works very well. The can is located in the second battery location with plenty of room for access to the headlight bulb and plenty of clearance to drain the can as well.

 

Edited July 27, 2015 by LSXTC

[Silverado-Hareek]

Just installed my RX monster can and clean side seperator this weekend.

 

I'm happy with it, however I am unhappy that not enough hose was included, not enough hose clamps, insufficient mounting bracket, and lacking the correct and needed hose couplings. I'm going to have to go back through it at some time and clean it up with the correct hose sizes/lengths and fittings.

 

In my opinion there is far too much crossing over from 3/8" hose to 5/8" hose to 3/4" hose with this kit. I understand they are not application specific, but I paid damn good money for this setup and I expect it to be right.

 

How I'm going to correct it is:

3/8" hose from the valley nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can

3/8" hose from the upper nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can.

The secondary vacuum line going from the can to the Airaid intake tube will remain 5/8" and I'll get a 5/8" MNPT 90* fitting to screw in to the intake tube so that it can go direct from the can to the tube with no neck down.

The hose from the CSS to the intake tube is going to be 3/8" the whole way, I just need to get a 3/8" MNPT fitting for the intake tube.

 

The mounting bracket I made works very well. The can is located in the second battery location with plenty of room for access to the headlight bulb and plenty of clearance to drain the can as well.

 

IMG_32012.jpg

 

Something doesn't look right about this set up man. I don't think you're supposed to use all of the ports on the monster can unless you have a turbo...one of the side/edge ports should be capped off. The clean side separator should be connected to your intake tube that you currently have connected to the catch can. The hose running from the passenger side valley cover to the clean side separator should be connected to the diver side valley cover (like you're bridging the valley covers together) and the clean side separator should have a hose connecting it to the intake tube. That's my understanding anyway of how all of this is supposed to work.

[LSXTC]

 

Something doesn't look right about this set up man. I don't think you're supposed to use all of the ports on the monster can unless you have a turbo...one of the side/edge ports should be capped off. The clean side separator should be connected to your intake tube that you currently have connected to the catch can. The hose running from the passenger side valley cover to the clean side separator should be connected to the diver side valley cover (like you're bridging the valley covers together) and the clean side separator should have a hose connecting it to the intake tube. That's my understanding anyway of how all of this is supposed to work.

I think you're getting lines crossed in the picture. I have it hooked up as per the RX instructions, found here: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/GM-5.3-6.2-Install-Diagram.pdf

 

I also used this thread for reference: http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-6-2l-v8/2014-and-up-owners-t200081.html

 

I have the two valve covers connected via a "bridge hose".

 

The center connection in the can runs to the Pcv extraction barb in the valley.

 

One outside can connection runs to the barb behind the throttle body as primary vacuum, with check valve flowing away from the can.

 

Other outside can connection runs to the intake tube as secondary vacuum, check valve flowing away from the can.

 

The clean side seperator hose runs to the intake tube.

[Silverado-Hareek]

I think you're getting lines crossed in the picture. I have it hooked up as per the RX instructions, found here: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/GM-5.3-6.2-Install-Diagram.pdf

 

I also used this thread for reference: http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-6-2l-v8/2014-and-up-owners-t200081.html

 

I have the two valve covers connected via a "bridge hose".

 

The center connection in the can runs to the Pcv extraction barb in the valley.

 

One outside can connection runs to the barb behind the throttle body as primary vacuum, with check valve flowing away from the can.

 

Other outside can connection runs to the intake tube as secondary vacuum, check valve flowing away from the can.

 

The clean side seperator hose runs to the intake tube.

 

I'm sorry you're right I WAS getting the lines crossed in the picture. I thought the bridge hose was connecting to the clean side separator but I see now that it's turning down to the valley cover. My apologies.

Edited July 28, 2015 by Silverado-Hareek

[LSXTC]

I'm sorry you're right I WAS getting the lines crossed in the picture. I thought the bridge hose was connecting to the clean side separator but I see now that it's turning down to the valley cover. My apologies.

It's all good!! Thank you for caring enough to raise a flag when you thought something was wrong.

 

Im glad that only thing wrong with my setup is how rednecked and hacked together the hoses are due to the rx kit not having appropriate fittings or hose lengths. I'll correct that sometime, the important thing now is that it's on and functional.

Edited July 28, 2015 by LSXTC

[Jordan18]

So the monster can automatically comes as dual valve?

 

The mounting options could sure be looked into a little more on RX's side, I am not a fan of the bracket style in mine but it seems to be working so far right now in the standard brake booster location, if I stumble across a decent looking bracket in my travels I could utilize as a mount I might attempt to relocate to the spare battery area.

[ghgmi]

I'm happy with it, however I am unhappy that not enough hose was included, not enough hose clamps, insufficient mounting bracket, and lacking the correct and needed hose couplings. I'm going to have to go back through it at some time and clean it up with the correct hose sizes/lengths and fittings.

 

 

Just curious, what would it take to make you unhappy with a $300+ catch can? Seems like they could have done better than that.

 

(I wish I could wait about 10 years before buying something with a DI engine, so that we'd know whether or not there are any long-term deposit issues or anything. But my car's already oldish and everything is DI now.)

Edited July 28, 2015 by ghgmi

[LSXTC]

So the monster can automatically comes as dual valve?

 

The mounting options could sure be looked into a little more on RX's side, I am not a fan of the bracket style in mine but it seems to be working so far right now in the standard brake booster location, if I stumble across a decent looking bracket in my travels I could utilize as a mount I might attempt to relocate to the spare battery area.

Yes, the monster can is a dual valve setup, it does come with the dual check valves.

 

If you like my mounting location it is easy to make an adapter bracket. I could probably even make you one and send it to you. For what it's worth, I love the location I chose to mount it. The bracket I made works very well. At some point I might make a stronger bracket, or a support bracket for the bottom side that will attach to the battery tray.

[LSXTC]

Just curious, what would it take to make you unhappy with a $300+ catch can? Seems like they could have done better than that.

 

(I wish I could wait about 10 years before buying something with a DI engine, so that we'd know whether or not there are any long-term deposit issues or anything. But my car's already oldish and everything is DI now.)

I knew going into it that this was a generic kit. I have yet to contact RX about the fittings and hoses...for all I know they may make it right by sending me the correct stuff.

 

Deposits are a big deal. They are a problem in every DI motor out there. My bmw has had to be cleaned numerous times. Cleaning the valves isn't an awful deal when the manufacturer acknowledges the issue and develops tools to take care of it. For bmw it is a rool that consists of a few parts and the short of it is that you close the valve you're working on, then blast crushed walnut shells into the port and on the valve using compressed air, this cleans the valve, and simultaneously you have a vacuum hooked up to the tool that extracts the small pieces of walnut shell. If by chance small shell gets left the engine burns em up and spits em out.

 

Well designed catch cans are a necessity on DI motors.

 

Or you could ditch the whole pcv system all together and use a vacuum pump system to extract crankcase vapors. This would eliminate every chance of your valves getting coked up with gunk.

[ghgmi]

I knew going into it that this was a generic kit. I have yet to contact RX about the fittings and hoses...for all I know they may make it right by sending me the correct stuff.

 

Gotcha.

 

Deposits are a big deal. They are a problem in every DI motor out there. [...]

Well designed catch cans are a necessity on DI motors.

 

That can't be the solution. They're selling hundreds of thousands (millions?) of these engines and only a small percentage can be adding these cans. People are going to be very unhappy if their engines start clogging up. How long did it take on your bmw?

 

Are the vacuum systems even legal on street vehicles?

[LSXTC]

Gotcha.

 

 

That can't be the solution. They're selling hundreds of thousands (millions?) of these engines and only a small percentage can be adding these cans. People are going to be very unhappy if their engines start clogging up. How long did it take on your bmw?

 

Are the vacuum systems even legal on street vehicles?

Unfortunately, it is the solution, that's still not even 100%, in relation to attempting to keep intake valves clean on a DI motor.

 

Power loss and gumming up of valves is directly correlated to the vehicle, but for the average DI motor Id say a cleaning should be done every 30k miles at most.

 

Modifying any emissions related component is illegal, so no, disabling pcv and running a vacuum pump would not be legal.

[ghgmi]

Unfortunately, it is the solution, that's still not even 100%, in relation to attempting to keep intake valves clean on a DI motor.

 

Power loss and gumming up of valves is directly correlated to the vehicle, but for the average DI motor Id say a cleaning should be done every 30k miles at most.

 

Modifying any emissions related component is illegal, so no, disabling pcv and running a vacuum pump would not be legal.

 

Yikes, 30k miles is just 1.5 years for me.

[Jsdirt]

This is what they tell us is "progress" ....

 

The only common denominator I see in all this is, it "costs more money" ...

[Spurshot]

When the engine torques, it moves quite a bit. With those straight hoses, you might end up breaking something in your mounting setup.

[Jordan18]

Yes, the monster can is a dual valve setup, it does come with the dual check valves.

 

If you like my mounting location it is easy to make an adapter bracket. I could probably even make you one and send it to you. For what it's worth, I love the location I chose to mount it. The bracket I made works very well. At some point I might make a stronger bracket, or a support bracket for the bottom side that will attach to the battery tray.

 

Can you send me a closeup pic of the bracket or post it in this thread? Curious to see more on how the can brace ring is attached to the RX/your own bracket there.

Edited July 29, 2015 by Jordan18