Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

That's friggin' sweet! Nice job! :thumbs:

Rme2513 Enthusiast

Rme2513

Posted
Posted

Thanks I made it at work going to try and hook it up tonight or tomorrow

Rme2513 Enthusiast

Rme2513

Posted
Posted

What about the two vacuum line on the front of the valve covers on the left and right sides that go into the intake tube should they also go threw a catch can ?

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted (edited)

What about the two vacuum line on the front of the valve covers on the left and right sides that go into the intake tube should they also go threw a catch can ?

 

No, those are what you would handle with a clean side separator. The valve cover lines mainly pull air when the engine doesn't produce much or any vacuum (i.e.; WOT). The aftermarket clean side separators tie these two lines together and route the air intake line to a custom pseudo separator that installs in the oil fill cap.

 

Look here:

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/content/Catch_Can_Install_Chevy_GMC_2014_5.3L_6.2L_Truck.pdf

 

Edit: I've not seen anyone do a home made clean side setup or use a catch can on it. I wonder if there would be too much restriction for a full blown separator on the clean side to function properly. I have the Elite CC and I'll probably get their clean side setup too.

Edited by RobZ71LM7
Rme2513 Enthusiast

Rme2513

Posted
Posted

No, those are what you would handle with a clean side separator. The valve cover lines mainly pull air when the engine doesn't produce much or any vacuum (i.e.; WOT). The aftermarket clean side separators tie these two lines together and route the air intake line to a custom pseudo separator that installs in the oil fill cap.

 

Look here:

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/content/Catch_Can_Install_Chevy_GMC_2014_5.3L_6.2L_Truck.pdf

 

Edit: I've not seen anyone do a home made clean side setup or use a catch can on it. I wonder if there would be too much restriction for a full blown separator on the clean side to function properly. I have the Elite CC and I'll probably get their clean side setup too.

Looks to me like all it has in it is steel wool or something like that basically a its closed loop breather ?
mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted

 

 

What? You don't want to be one of the "cool" people in here that posts pics of his catch can contents everytime he drains it? :D

Well shoot I was gonna post a pic of my cc contents but now I don't want you making fun of me. Just kidding. Haha. I'm doing it anyway. After just over 1 month and 1800 miles of MI weather I had about 2 oz of almost all dark oil in my Elite can.

post-138443-0-86372700-1434842060_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-86372700-1434842060_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-86372700-1434842060_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-86372700-1434842060_thumb.jpg

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

HAHAHA! I love simple, one-word answers. :thumbs:

 

 

The price tells me to agree with Honda there, but I'd like to hear from someone who has tried it. Although just looking at those hoses tells me this is not the right application for that material ...

Edited by Jsdirt
HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Haha well just looking at the kit, I recognize the Festo quick fittings for the sight glass. They wont hold up to the temperature extremes in the engine bay. They're mostly plastic and I seem them fail constantly in my line of work. They were never intended for that kind of application.The blue PVC tubing is just laughable. The heat, oil and gasses from the crankcase will degrade the tubing pretty quickly. Having a coalescing filter in the catch can makes a big difference it's effectiveness and I doubt this has one.

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

I'm about to but an Elite catch can. Their site lists an exit check valve as an option. I've had catch cans on four Dodge Challengers before and there was no check valve because under certain loads the PCV system would flow in the opposite direction. Is a check valve really needed on the 5.3 engine? Also, I have 26k miles on my truck now. How bad would the buildup on the valves be now?

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

I'm about to but an Elite catch can. Their site lists an exit check valve as an option. I've had catch cans on four Dodge Challengers before and there was no check valve because under certain loads the PCV system would flow in the opposite direction. Is a check valve really needed on the 5.3 engine? Also, I have 26k miles on my truck now. How bad would the buildup on the valves be now?

Just from what I have seen and heard from others on here you do not need the check valve.

  • Like 1
mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

Just from what I have seen and heard from others on here you do not need the check valve.

Thank you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...