Jump to content

Sub help


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am in the process of designing a box, does anybody have a ported sub box with a 12" sub? I just need help determining the dimensions.

Posted

FYI, building an enclosure isn't hard but you can easily mess things up. First you need to use the proper materials. Then you have to figure out how to build an enclosure to match BOTH the vehicle and the subwoofer. Just slapping things together doesn't mean it will sound the best. I love it when kids get their parents CC and go to some big box store and buy whatever they can and have it installed. Then they see one of my systems I designed that normally costs half as much sound 10x better lol!

Posted

The manufacturer will give you volume for ported vs sealed. Follow that.

 

Once you have that use good thick MDF, don't cut corners. Do everything properly and you will have a nice enclosure. But it's getting hard these days to build one for the price of just buying one.

 

What type of woofer are you using? What wattage? What type of sound are you going after? SPL? Or good SQ?

Posted

Sealed enclosures are easier to build than ported. There are a lot more calculations involved with ported boxes in order to maximize output than sealed boxes.

 

Sealed enclosures are easier to build than ported. There are a lot more calculations involved with ported boxes in order to maximize output than sealed boxes.

Posted

I have a sealed box now and I don't like the sound, ported sounds better IMO.

 

I have a 12" Pioneer Champion Series it can handle a peak 3500watts and 1000watts RMS. I drew up a design that is within the min/max recommended for ported boxes now just got to get the port size. To get the port size don't you have to calculate something with the sensitivity? Mine is 90db, and my frequency response is between 20-150hz.

Posted

I have a sealed box now and I don't like the sound, ported sounds better IMO. I have a 12" Pioneer Champion Series it can handle a peak 3500watts and 1000watts RMS. I drew up a design that is within the min/max recommended for ported boxes now just got to get the port size. To get the port size don't you have to calculate something with the sensitivity? Mine is 90db, and my frequency response is between 20-150hz.

What amp are you running? Are you running an active crossover? What kind of box are you using now???? Is it hand made or pre-fab????? Running a sealed box is tough in a truck because you have a lack of good, usable airspace inside the cabin. It can be done but you MUST pay attention to details. To run a ported box with these Pioneer sub it is recommended to have 1.2 cu/ft box with a 3" x 3.5" port. Personally I would bump that up to about 1.6cu/ft and have the port 3" x 2.25-3.5". If not running an active crossover you should have multiple port lengths to try out to see what sounds the best. Also, have ALL the doors and windows up along with all bass settings in the middle when tuning the system. If you have the knowledge, that sub really does the best in a band pass box while in a truck.

Posted

I'm running a PowerAcoustik 3500watt amp I'm not sure on how it's wired. How did you find out how big the port needs to be? Also the recommended volume for a ported box for my sub is between .8-1.6 cubic feet. I drew up a design for under my back seat of my ext cab and it came out to be around 1.46 cubic feet but I'm not sure on how big the port should be.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...