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How much hp do you think I'm at?


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Just bored see what others think I'm at. I have an 08 silverado with 5.3 and blackbear 89 octane tune and an air raid mit tube. They are what 320 hp stock? So im thinking i might be a round 340?

 

Lets see. You did 2 mods. So 322 hp I am guessing.

 

Seriously - you are probably pretty close.

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Ricer math is not allowed.lol.

 

Even dyno's lie, do a handful of 1/4 mile runs, measure the weight of the truck as close as possible with you in it and you can calculate RWHP with your weight/mph/time pretty accurately.

 

Pretty sure a fully bolted 5.3 with a good tune will pull just over 300rwhp. Could be wrong but pretty sure.

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Yeah a 243/799 headed one will. Delete that active fuel management junk and drop in a cam around the specs of a tr 220 and have some fun. A mild convertor would be a good thing which even stock it helps. A stock 6 cylinder trailblazer convertor gives around a 2600 rpm flash.... but I prefer 3000 at least myself.

 

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When I only had my bb tune, was only getting 250 to the wheels. With headers and exhaust, maybe touching over 260 now. As for torque, was at 300. Probably not much of a difference lol. Mines an 06 though.

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06 unless it was an L33 is a totally different engine. The 07 up trucks all have the flat top pistons, 243/799 casting heads and the trailblazer ss intake manifold on them with the 87 mm throttle body. An LM7 has crappy heads, poorer intake and a half point less compression.

 

That said rear wheel power is overrated.... Line up 3 different dynos on the same vehicle and see 3 totally different numbers. A mustang will read 250 HP and a dynojet will say 300hp on the same vehicle all other variables the same....Comparison from a change due to mods is great but otherwise junk.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just bored see what others think I'm at. I have an 08 silverado with 5.3 and blackbear 89 octane tune and an air raid mit tube. They are what 320 hp stock? So im thinking i might be a round 340?

You do realize that's the rating @ the crank, not the rear wheels. Here is the rule of thumb to calculate RWHP:

 

BHP x 0.80 = RWHP Automatic transmission. (320 x 0.80 = 256 RWHP)

 

BHP (Brake Horsepower)is at the crank BEFORE the parasitical loss to the rear wheels.

 

OR, take the vehicle to a dyno and put the "pedal to the metal" and know what is really going on.

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And quickly realize a rear wheel dyno can vary so much from one to another that the actual number it spits out is pretty worthless. Gains however do show so if you dyno before and after doing some mods the difference is what you gained. A dynojet might spit out 280 at wheels and a mustang says 240..... not really meaningful now are they.

 

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If you want an idea before and after mods, dyno stock, then after mods. ALWAYS USE THE SAME DYNO FOR ACCURATE RESULTS. As said the Mustang DynoJet differences, but there are different types of chassis dynos as well. Also no 2 will give the same readings. Shop X and Shop Y both have Mustang Eddy Current Dynos, Same truck, same mods could read 240/260 at Shop X and 250/275 at Shop Y

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And quickly realize a rear wheel dyno can vary so much from one to another that the actual number it spits out is pretty worthless. Gains however do show so if you dyno before and after doing some mods the difference is what you gained. A dynojet might spit out 280 at wheels and a mustang says 240..... not really meaningful now are they.

 

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Well then you answered your own question sir, you pick either the dynojet OR the mustang, set your baseline (when stock), then after mods, run it on the same dyno of your choice.

 

If you want an idea before and after mods, dyno stock, then after mods. ALWAYS USE THE SAME DYNO FOR ACCURATE RESULTS. As said the Mustang DynoJet differences, but there are different types of chassis dynos as well. Also no 2 will give the same readings. Shop X and Shop Y both have Mustang Eddy Current Dynos, Same truck, same mods could read 240/260 at Shop X and 250/275 at Shop Y

I agree totally about using the same dynamometer when you are modifying your vehicle, also the ambient air temperature (temp + humidity) has a lot to do with it. I always dyno higher (not by much) in the early morning when the temperature is cool with a lot of humidity. I dyno lower when it is hot and dry outside.

 

JMHO

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And quickly realize a rear wheel dyno can vary so much from one to another that the actual number it spits out is pretty worthless. Gains however do show so if you dyno before and after doing some mods the difference is what you gained. A dynojet might spit out 280 at wheels and a mustang says 240..... not really meaningful now are they.Sent from my SGH-I747M using TapatalkWell then you answered your own question sir, you pick either the dynojet OR the mustang, set your baseline (when stock), then after mods, run it on the same dyno of your choice. If you want an idea before and after mods, dyno stock, then after mods. ALWAYS USE THE SAME DYNO FOR ACCURATE RESULTS. As said the Mustang DynoJet differences, but there are different types of chassis dynos as well. Also no 2 will give the same readings. Shop X and Shop Y both have Mustang Eddy Current Dynos, Same truck, same mods could read 240/260 at Shop X and 250/275 at Shop YI agree totally about using the same dynamometer when you are modifying your vehicle, also the ambient air temperature (temp + humidity) has a lot to do with it. I always dyno higher (not by much) in the early morning when the temperature is cool with a lot of humidity. I dyno lower when it is hot and dry outside.JMHO

Correct buy still the actual number itself IMO is meaningless. The gain value that you get from before and after matters but that's not what most do or talk about. Its that once in their life they strap to a dyno and say they make "x" amount of power. Line 3 different dynos up in a controlled environment and not one will give the same number on the same car. Say your initial was 245 and after some work you retest on the same dyno and get 265. You gained 20 HP.... great. But does that raw 245 or 265 number mean a lot itself? No. Because you might try a different dyno with nothing done and baseline at 270.... so which are you? 245 baseline or 270. Just not a hugely accurate gauge of power.

 

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Personally they way I see it, it is good for gauging mods if you always use the same dyno. If you juat want to know your power it can gove you a warm fuzzy, but I would use about 3 different ones and average the numbers. My LQ9 put out 325 to the wheels on a Dynocom 15000 series.havent had it on a different dyno

 

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Correct buy still the actual number itself IMO is meaningless. The gain value that you get from before and after matters but that's not what most do or talk about. Its that once in their life they strap to a dyno and say they make "x" amount of power. Line 3 different dynos up in a controlled environment and not one will give the same number on the same car. Say your initial was 245 and after some work you retest on the same dyno and get 265. You gained 20 HP.... great. But does that raw 245 or 265 number mean a lot itself? No. Because you might try a different dyno with nothing done and baseline at 270.... so which are you? 245 baseline or 270. Just not a hugely accurate gauge of power.

 

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You are correct.
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