Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

alrighty, well have fun buying a $900 tool to fasten your u bolts, ill stick to my general conscious ;)

 

LOL you know they are only $10-$40 right? A nice digital one runs $100-300, and you can even get a torque wrench that does it all for $300

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=torque+angle+gauge&tbm=shop

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:200&tbm=shop&q=torque+angle+gauge

Posted

 

LOL you know they are only $10-$40 right? A nice digital one runs $100-300, and you can even get a torque wrench that does it all for $300

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=torque+angle+gauge&tbm=shop

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:200&tbm=shop&q=torque+angle+gauge

I only buy quality tools! :)

 

5C579BF6-2E57-487B-B708-21ABB2DD8433_zps

 

 

Anyhow, that's just my opinion. I've tightened literally 100's of ubolts and have had zero issues without angle torquing them. Obviously the extra step doesn't hurt, I just don't think it's necessary.

 

If I'm working on an engine, then it's a different story.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the 2017?

Edited by KurtA
Posted

The Cognitos UCA instructions re-use the factory hardware to attach to the frame and specify 90ft lbs. So unless you hear from someone else, I think that's a safe bet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

So I hate to be the guy that beats a dead truck, but these will apply for all the K2XX platform trucks, including the '17 Sierra?



I ask because I called one local dealer, and they were rather reluctant to tell me anything at all about what the service manual contains. So I called another, and they've been unable to find anything in their FSM. So I called the local Tire Discounter and they gave me



Upper Strut Mount Bolts - 89 Ft Lbs


Tie Rod End Nut - 1st Pass 26 Ft Lbs, 2nd Pass 85-100 degrees


Sway Bar Nut - 48 Ft Lbs


Upper Ball Joint - 1st Pass 85 Ft Lbs, 2nd Pass 85-100 degrees



And I felt like 85 ft lbs was just asking to lock up a ball joint...





EDIT: So I talked to a tech at the dealership I purchased from and confirmed that the specs listed on p1 of this post are in fact for all K2XX Light Duty pickups. :-)



So the installation continues...


Edited by nmyron
  • 3 years later...
Posted
14 hours ago, king kong said:

I was wondring if maybe you have the factory specs if the truck has the z71 package?

 

Zero difference.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/1/2020 at 1:01 AM, king kong said:

Factory they were at 80 lb ft not sure how they would be the same. 

 

 

Zero.  Difference.  2wd, 4wd, with or without Z71.  The same.  They use the same bolts, u-bolts, nuts, etc.    

 

Would the specs be different from a 1500 to a 2500?  You bet.  

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Guys, I did a FabTech 6" lift on my 2018 1500.  I have a popping in the steering, and I need to check the factory torque settings of the factory bolts that hold the rack and pinion in.  I'll also want to check the steering shaft coupler that connects the column shaft to the R&P.   

 

I can't find their factory torque anywhere.  I would love to get a full guide of all torque specs for the this truck, but if I can't find that, does anyone happen to have the specs for the R&P bolts and shaft coupler? 

 

Also, I read some interesting reply in this thread earlier about Torque, Torque to Angle, and Torque to Yield.  I'm curiously wondering if these bolts are Torque to Yield and require replacement with factory bolts.

 

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

 

RC

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hi Yall,

Wondering if anyone knows what the torque specs are for the front driveshaft connecting to the differential? I need to loosen the driveshaft in order to access the the t-stat so I can install my tbv kit. It's pretty much impossible to access the t-stat housing with the driveshaft where it is. Any help would be appreciated!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,265 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...