Jump to content

Factory Torque Specifications?

arkenzo
 Share

Recommended Posts

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

alrighty, well have fun buying a $900 tool to fasten your u bolts, ill stick to my general conscious ;)

 

LOL you know they are only $10-$40 right? A nice digital one runs $100-300, and you can even get a torque wrench that does it all for $300

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=torque+angle+gauge&tbm=shop

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:200&tbm=shop&q=torque+angle+gauge

gabekalp Enthusiast

gabekalp

Posted
Posted

 

LOL you know they are only $10-$40 right? A nice digital one runs $100-300, and you can even get a torque wrench that does it all for $300

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=torque+angle+gauge&tbm=shop

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#tbs=vw:l,mr:1,price:1,ppr_min:200&tbm=shop&q=torque+angle+gauge

I only buy quality tools! :)

 

5C579BF6-2E57-487B-B708-21ABB2DD8433_zps

 

 

Anyhow, that's just my opinion. I've tightened literally 100's of ubolts and have had zero issues without angle torquing them. Obviously the extra step doesn't hurt, I just don't think it's necessary.

 

If I'm working on an engine, then it's a different story.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 months later...
KurtA Enthusiast

KurtA

Posted
Posted (edited)

Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the 2017?

Edited by KurtA
corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

The Cognitos UCA instructions re-use the factory hardware to attach to the frame and specify 90ft lbs. So unless you hear from someone else, I think that's a safe bet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
nmyron Enthusiast

nmyron

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I hate to be the guy that beats a dead truck, but these will apply for all the K2XX platform trucks, including the '17 Sierra?



I ask because I called one local dealer, and they were rather reluctant to tell me anything at all about what the service manual contains. So I called another, and they've been unable to find anything in their FSM. So I called the local Tire Discounter and they gave me



Upper Strut Mount Bolts - 89 Ft Lbs


Tie Rod End Nut - 1st Pass 26 Ft Lbs, 2nd Pass 85-100 degrees


Sway Bar Nut - 48 Ft Lbs


Upper Ball Joint - 1st Pass 85 Ft Lbs, 2nd Pass 85-100 degrees



And I felt like 85 ft lbs was just asking to lock up a ball joint...





EDIT: So I talked to a tech at the dealership I purchased from and confirmed that the specs listed on p1 of this post are in fact for all K2XX Light Duty pickups. :-)



So the installation continues...


Edited by nmyron
  • 3 years later...
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, king kong said:

I was wondring if maybe you have the factory specs if the truck has the z71 package?

 

Zero difference.

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
On 11/1/2020 at 1:01 AM, king kong said:

Factory they were at 80 lb ft not sure how they would be the same. 

 

 

Zero.  Difference.  2wd, 4wd, with or without Z71.  The same.  They use the same bolts, u-bolts, nuts, etc.    

 

Would the specs be different from a 1500 to a 2500?  You bet.  

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
cruzcode Enthusiast

cruzcode

Posted
Posted

Guys, I did a FabTech 6" lift on my 2018 1500.  I have a popping in the steering, and I need to check the factory torque settings of the factory bolts that hold the rack and pinion in.  I'll also want to check the steering shaft coupler that connects the column shaft to the R&P.   

 

I can't find their factory torque anywhere.  I would love to get a full guide of all torque specs for the this truck, but if I can't find that, does anyone happen to have the specs for the R&P bolts and shaft coupler? 

 

Also, I read some interesting reply in this thread earlier about Torque, Torque to Angle, and Torque to Yield.  I'm curiously wondering if these bolts are Torque to Yield and require replacement with factory bolts.

 

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

 

RC

  • 1 year later...
teagan Enthusiast

teagan

Posted
Posted

Hi Yall,

Wondering if anyone knows what the torque specs are for the front driveshaft connecting to the differential? I need to loosen the driveshaft in order to access the the t-stat so I can install my tbv kit. It's pretty much impossible to access the t-stat housing with the driveshaft where it is. Any help would be appreciated!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,056 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...