Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'd notch your bed support above the pumpkin. Super easy. Then get helpers and smaller tires all around. Instead of messing with those rivets on the shackle hangers. That height looks perfect

Yeah, they are going to be a pain in the ass. But I may end up letting the wife drive it a lot more in the near future and would rather have it a little more comfortable for her. Probably will get helpers in the near future to help with some towing.

 

Plus I already have a much lower truck than this.

F7B3A4BF-E7D2-4C4C-9450-855789E9FE73_zps

  • Like 2
Posted

I have the mcg helpers. I love them. Bolt on.no drilling.

Posted

Just bought a 2017 RCSB 2wd blackout. I have 22" OE replicas with 285/40/22 Nitto 420's on the way. I am wondering which Mcgaughy's kit to buy. Are they referring to the upper or lower control arms when choosing between stamped or cast? I'm also hoping my exhuast doesnt get in the way of the flip kit.

 

ezlbif.jpg

 

 

 

20af9qq.jpg

 

 

 

fd4wo6.jpg

 

 

2irgh1.jpg

Posted

I am wondering which Mcgaughy's kit to buy. Are they referring to the upper or lower control arms when choosing between stamped or cast?

 

They are referring to the upper and lower control arms and yours are stamped steel with the larger ball joints. You would use the 34270 kit for 2wd. I'm in the middle of an install and will post pictures when done.

Posted

Perfect. That is the answer I was looking for. Thanks man. I'll be awaiting your progress.

Posted

Perfect. That is the answer I was looking for. Thanks man. I'll be awaiting your progress.

What kind of exhaust is that. I like it a lot other then the fact that is removes the ability to tow anything.

Posted

That's all custom. Those tips merge into a y connector about 18" in from the bumper. The rest is single 3.5" with carven muffler and all the rest of the stuff deleted.

Posted

Right before the y connector I made it so the whole tip configuration can be unbolted quickly and the hitch can be mounted back on

Posted

Just finished up my install of the McGaughys 34270 kit. Overall I'm happy with the results however the job would be much easier with a detailed set of instructions. I ended up with 3" drop in front and 5" in the rear. The ride is the same and I haven't had any rubbing or bottom outs. The rear still has 3-4" of travel to the stops. dd2377088bca85176870f4a0f851b707.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

How many rings did you use on the front struts?

Originally I used 4 rings without the spindles and dropped 1.5" then installed the spindles and added a ring back on which gave me 3" total.

  • Like 1
Posted

Only thing about lowering these trucks with struts and springs in the mix, is the lower you go the front wheel moves back in the wheel well and isn't centered.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...