2014+ Power Tailgate Lock installed

MotoMedic · April 14, 2014

It's there, you just have to carefully sift through the 200 other wires

Use a multimeter and the power should spike when you hit the power lock unlock button.

mcnwil · April 14, 2014

I had to really hunt in the bundle on my truck. The wires were all the way toward the exterior and at the bottom of the harness. They were buried in the one location that was the most difficult to find. I used my fluke ddm to verify,any voltmeter will do. Just loosen the harness as much as you can and take your time searching, you will find it!

April 14, 2014

A multimeter won't read through the sheathing on the wire will it? What about a pen tester?

MotoMedic · April 14, 2014

A multimeter won't read through the sheathing on the wire will it? What about a pen tester?

They have a sharp point so you can stick through covering to check. Hole left closes 99% on its own but after testing you can throw on a piece of elec tape just to be sure.

joguzman711 · April 16, 2014

On a 2014 Silverado High Country, the wiring is as follows: "Blue" wire from the solenoid goes to a "Green/Gray" in the cab and the "Green" wire from the solenoid goes to "yellow/brown" in the cab. If they are reversed, the solenoid will work reverse on the command you send via remote.

Edited April 16, 2014 by joguzman711

April 16, 2014

I cannot for the life of me get this thing working I have tried those wires..testing with light i get nothing off the wires im testing when I hit the unlock lock button..it cant be this difficult! I have about 10 grey wires, 2 grey with green and about 10 brown with yellow,,,sooo annoying....

MotoMedic · April 17, 2014

I cannot for the life of me get this thing working I have tried those wires..testing with light i get nothing off the wires im testing when I hit the unlock lock button..it cant be this difficult! I have about 10 grey wires, 2 grey with green and about 10 brown with yellow,,,sooo annoying....

The ones you're looking for will be a tad thicker than the rest.

April 19, 2014

update ...it was the thicker brown and yellow and the thicker grey and green..had a problem with the connection inside the tailgate that was making it not work...also make sure your actuator arm isnt bent..mine was a little tweeked and wasnt fully locking the gate..thanks for all the help guys..fyi my truck is a sle crew cab so that the wires for that...

sw1tched · April 19, 2014

I have done this and it was really easy. The only question I have is this:

Is there a different set of wires that we could tap so it takes 2x unlock in order to unlock the tailgate like it does the 3 doors that aren't the drivers door.

I figure if I hit lock... lock all 5 locks (4 doors and tailgate)

If I hit unlock once.... I just want the drivers door unlocked

If I hit unlock twice... unlock all 5 locks

I figure it would save the tailgate actuator since most of my time is getting in and out of just the drivers door.

MotoMedic · April 19, 2014

I have done this and it was really easy. The only question I have is this:

Is there a different set of wires that we could tap so it takes 2x unlock in order to unlock the tailgate like it does the 3 doors that aren't the drivers door.

I figure if I hit lock... lock all 5 locks (4 doors and tailgate)

If I hit unlock once.... I just want the drivers door unlocked

If I hit unlock twice... unlock all 5 locks

I figure it would save the tailgate actuator since most of my time is getting in and out of just the drivers door.

If you could determine which wires go to the back left door lock, you could tap those instead and the tailgate lock would function as you described.

Mad Max · April 21, 2014

Wow! So I'm playing around with my new '14 LTZ Z71 Crew Silverado which I have been driving around with anew tool box and some other nice new handy crap in the back and I just noticed that the damn tailgate didn't lock remotely! Ran home and check this site and found this thread. Man oh man! I can't believe they don't have that standard. Hate to tap any wires and potentially have any warrantee issues but for this I will obviously have to make an exception. Will be interested to see if anyone finds the wire for the rear door unlocks so the will perform as mentioned above.

It's mind boggling to believe there is no factory option for this.

Mad Max · April 22, 2014

Sure would be nice if someone could tell us what those rear door lock wire colors are, and where to find them...I'm ready to do this asap.

I noticed that in the instructions on the PopLock website it says,

"If testing the wire to verify, all 2014 and newer Chevy/GMC Crew cabs the Lock and Unlock wires cannot be tested with a stan

dard incandescent test light, you

will need to use a computer safe tester."

All I have is a basic snap-on fuse type incandescent bulb inside it's clear handle with a sharp pick type point for a tester. Sounds like my tester is a bad idea to use for this and may harm the truck's computer?

Edited April 22, 2014 by Mad Max

mcnwil · April 22, 2014

Sure would be nice if someone could tell us what those rear door lock wire colors are, and where to find them...I'm ready to do this asap.

I noticed that in the instructions on the PopLock website it says,

"If testing the wire to verify, all 2014 and newer Chevy/GMC Crew cabs the Lock and Unlock wires cannot be tested with a stan

dard incandescent test light, you

will need to use a computer safe tester."

All I have is a basic snap-on fuse type incandescent bulb inside it's clear handle with a sharp pick type point for a tester. Sounds like my tester is a bad idea to use for this and may harm the truck's computer?

I had noticed that language myself and used a digital voltmeter. I saw the 12vdc just fine on it. I did not attempt to check it with a light tester. I figured that the concern may be connecting a bulb in the circuit with a ground, whereas multimeters have their own power source and place little to no load on a circuit. You can pick up a basic multimeter for a small price if you don't know someone to borrow one from.

Mad Max · April 22, 2014

Yes sir you are correct. I just spoke with PopAndLock tech support and they said the problem is not with the incandescent tester and the correct wire, it's that it could be a problem if used with a wrong wire. But he said, just as you recommended, to use a multimeter instead and I should get 6-10 volt spike (not actually 12v) when hitting the lock/unlock on the correct wires, and that the larger tan/green stripe and larger gray wires under the step plate should be the rear lock wires so second click should unlock it. I believe this all has pretty much been said before but there it is again. Thank you all for your help.

Ordered and it's on it's way to me. ;-)

Fiosguy05 · April 25, 2014

I have done this and it was really easy. The only question I have is this:

Is there a different set of wires that we could tap so it takes 2x unlock in order to unlock the tailgate like it does the 3 doors that aren't the drivers door.

I figure if I hit lock... lock all 5 locks (4 doors and tailgate)

If I hit unlock once.... I just want the drivers door unlocked

If I hit unlock twice... unlock all 5 locks

I figure it would save the tailgate actuator since most of my time is getting in and out of just the drivers door.

I'm not sure if I just got lucky or not but the grey/green and brown/yellow wires I grabbed in the driver kick plate made mine work this way. Hit the unlock button once and it only unlocks the driver door. A second press of the unlock does the other 3 doors and the tailgate. In other words, the tailgate only unlocks with a 2nd press of the remote. I just installed it last night.