Jump to content

Help, air in my cooling system?

mirandam82

Recommended Posts

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
Posted

I don't know if I am posting this in the correct place but I need help that i cannot find anywhere, I am working on getting some general upkeep done on my 2000 Blazer LS before taking a long drive from Louisiana to Ohio, a couple of days ago I went to a mechanic and had my radiator flushed. I watched him work and then I went home, about 2 blocks from his shop.

 

Later that day I went out to run errands and noticed that my temp gauge was rising to the notch between normal and hot and then lowering back to normal, it had never done this before I got the flush. I replaced the thermostat just in case and it's still doing it.

 

I spoke with my brother who lives in Ohio so he cannot help and he suggested that maybe the cooling system needed "burped" from his description of the process, the mechanic who flushed my radiator did not "burp" it.

 

My problem is, I have watched numerous youtube videos and talked to several people at parts stores and everyone is telling me something different about how to "burp" the system. Can anyone here describe to me in detail how I get the possible air pocket out of the cooling system.

Duelin Enthusiast

Duelin

Posted
Posted

Why aren't you taking it back to the mechanic that flushed it? It shouldn't have been air bound after he flushed it. Unless you had that problem before you had it flushed.

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why aren't you taking it back to the mechanic that flushed it? It shouldn't have been air bound after he flushed it. Unless you had that problem before you had it flushed.

 

His shop is not open today and im starting to suspect he doesn't know what he's doing. It never did this before.

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

Run it with the cap off and keep the reservoir if

Full , when both htr hoses and upper rad hose are hot ,you're done , take it for a rip and check it after it cools down.

 

Rev it lots ,if the level goes down while Erving then the pumps is pulling fluid ....

 

There is no rocket science with a 14 yr old cooling system , do not think to deep into this,

 

It recirculates within the block AND the htr core until the t stat opens and then the rad is included in the loop of coolant flow . Simple

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Run it with the cap off and keep the reservoir if

Full , when both htr hoses and upper rad hose are hot ,you're done , take it for a rip and check it after it cools down.

Rev it lots ,if the level goes down while Erving then the pumps is pulling fluid ....

There is no rocket science with a 14 yr old cooling system , do not think to deep into this,

It recirculates within the block AND the htr core until the t stat opens and then the rad is included in the loop of coolant flow . Simple

Thanks, I did this and while I left it running the temp never raised to normal, after about 45 minutes I recapped it and took it for a drive, the temp is still not raising to normal... I am so lost. Is it possible that my temp gauge malfunctioned?

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hook it up to a scanner and see, they don't crap out after a service. . Change sending unit for giggles

lol I don't know how to do any of this stuff, i know just enough about cars to get me through telling a mechanic what's wrong.

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I personally don't know enough. I can identify fluids by smell, I can identify where a lot of problems are coming from and I can watch people work like a pro lol. I want to learn to maintain my vehicle without having to go to a mechanic.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Is the temp gauge moving at all now? Also did you replace the thermostat with the correct temperature 'stat? Should be 195*

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, got the correct temp. It seems to not be moving at all but I haven't checked it today. It was kind of staying right in between cold and normal as of last night. As soon as I get a chance to check today I will update you all.

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is the temp gauge moving at all now? Also did you replace the thermostat with the correct temperature 'stat? Should be 195*

Ok, just started her up and the temp is cold. Going to let the engine run for a bit and see what happens.

mirandam82 Enthusiast

mirandam82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, I just had a mechanic check it all out and he said I'm running at the ideal temp. He checked over my temp gauge, my water pump, fan, thermostat and the radiator itself and said my Blazer is running great. Apparently my attempt to bleed it went as it was supposed to. Thank you guys all for your help.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...