all dash functions and turn signals die while driving '08 Silverad

[greybeard]

Hate to start off my membership here with this but....

2008 Silverado, 78,077 miles, 100% stock, I'm original owner, bought new from Chevy/GMC/Pontiac dealer..

 

History:

6 months after purchase, battery post fell off--just came off the battery when I tried to start it one morning--battery replaced by dealer under warranty.

About 8 months later, that replacement battery died--replaced by dealer under warranty.

At about 50,000 miles and 48 months (estimating without looking for the reciept) the ign key began to give me trouble. It just wouldn't turn the lock without a lot of jiggling. Finally got where it wouldn't turn at all. Ign lock and 2 keys replaced by dealership out of my pocket.

Last Fall, the 3rd battery died--replaced it myself with the best non-GM battery I could find. (way out of warranty by this time)

 

Other than that--trouble free. (usual front speaker problems but doesn't bother me)

 

Current problems are two-fold, and began about 3-4 months ago.

1. Ign lock is again getting troublesome. It was new about 25,000 miles ago. The same jiggling required to get the lock to turn. Not as bad or as frequent as before, but still happening. Doesn't matter whether it is my key or my wife's.

 

2. Driving down the highway, the whole instrument panel suddenly dies. No tach, no speedo, no gas gauge, no temp gauge. Turn indicators don't work and neither do the turn lights front or rear. I assume no brake lights. Radio works but no illumination of any kind from it. Can't remember if interior cab lights work or not. Engine has remained running except for the last 2 occurrences--it too died on those 2 instances. Each time, all that was required was to cycle the key to off and restart and everything came back to life. Took it to an out of town dealership when it happened on a road trip and they couldn't find the problem. Told me I need to bring it in when the problem is happening. Kind of hard to do if the engine is going to die each time and restarting clears the problem temporarily.

 

Any way this is related to the current ign switch fiasco?

 

Any thoughts on what the problem might be? I'm pretty old now, and don't know a lot about new tech, so be gentle with me here. (our other cars are Fieros)

[Jsdirt]

Can't help ya - I'm in the same boat technology-wise .... but I've been told this is "progress", and to just accept it because "they (manufacturers) all do it (build JUNK).

 

 

 

Good luck. Hope that gets straightened out. I'm sure my truck is next ... Might be time to dump it for a pristine '69 El Camino I've had my eye on for a while.

 

At least IF those break, you can get home with basic hand tools.

[Doug_Scott]

If you pull into your driveway, leave truck in drive, and turn ignition key back one click. Does this replicate what you are getting on the highway exactly? If so, then your truck has the ignition switch issue I would think. Try just using the key alone in the ignition and see if it happens that way. From what I have heard, it is the weight of the keychain and all the other things hanging from it that is shutting the ignition off on its own.

[greybeard]

 

 

If you pull into your driveway, leave truck in drive, and turn ignition key back one click. Does this replicate what you are getting on the highway exactly? If so, then your truck has the ignition switch issue I would think. Try just using the key alone in the ignition and see if it happens that way. From what I have heard, it is the weight of the keychain and all the other things hanging from it that is shutting the ignition off on its own.

 

I just tried to turn the key back (engine running-in drive, foot on brake) to duplicate the problem. "not exactly"

Engine dies--fuel gauge goes to E--temp gauge goes to cold--tach goes to zero-turn signals inoperative-no warning lights- stereo in full display--brake lights work. Interior lights work.

I'm unsure what all that means.

 

I understand the key ring is GM's standard cause celeb at the moment for all the ign sw problems, but I doubt my key ring weight is the problem. I don't like a lot of crap in my pocket, but I went by the dealership today and spoke to the service writer. She told me the same thing--"Key ring too heavy"-till I showed it to her.

A simple 1" split ring containing:

1. Silverado key.

2 84 pontiac keys.

1 small 1 1/2" house key.

2 small brass 1 3/8" long master lock keys.

Weighs about the same as two Bic disposable lighters.

 

She drives a GM product and hers was 2-3X heavier than mine.

 

I do have an appointment set up for them to take a hard look at it next week. Just to scan it is 1 hr labor at $99/hour. (ouch!)

Hopefully, it won't die on me or my wife in the middle of one of Houston's expressways.

Perhaps it is something as simple as a bad frame ground somewhere.

 

I'll keep the board informed.

Thank you.

[Doug_Scott]

You should see the edit option to the left of the "MultiQuote" option. If your mouse cursor is inside the post the Edit option will become active. If the post is not yours, you will see the word "Report" next to "MultiQuote"

 

I would expect the ignition switch problem that GM is fixing would behave exactly like turning the ignition switch back towards the off position. That being said, you may want to try doing it again, but this time rotate the key slowly to see if there is a "halfway off" position. There may be a spot between run and acc that is completely dead. If there is, then you should have noticed it when it happened on the highway, assuming you tried to restart while truck was still rolling along. If you put the truck into neutral, turned the key off (and it moved as though it was not off already) then it likely was halfway between two positions. With shifter in neutral, you should not be able to turn the key any further than you can in Drive.

[citydriver]

Have the ground wire checked on the back of the right ( passenger ) side cylinder head. This is one of the main ground locations for the Body Control Module ( BCM ). My brother has a 2007 Silverado that had the same type of problems you are having, after 2 days of tracing the entire wire harness, unfortunately I started at the back of the truck with the CAN harness, I discovered a loose ground connection. In his case it was due to poor workmanship by a "so called" technician that worked on the truck before my brother purchased it used. After I found it, that opened a whole other can of worms, but that's another story.......Another ground connection to check is at the body mount frame tab under the drivers side door and the body to engine ground strap in the engine compartment, actually ALL ground connections, especially those of the BCM should be checked, including battery grounds. Hope this helps.

[Doug_Scott]

+1

 

Whenever there is a suspected wiring type issue, always start with the big cables first. They carry the highest amperage, and will hide bad connections in plain view. Ground circuits are the least understood, and can cause the strangest results.

 

I tried the turning the key back while in drive myself on my truck. I cannot get a completely dead spot while turning the key slowly. It is either on, or it is just like it is when I shut it off in Park. Radio stays lit and playing. I need only slip shifter into neutral and turn the key to restart. I would suggest that this is normal. If you have any different result, that may be an issue.