Jump to content

Question about PSi for Toyo MT - 33x12.50r20


toddboy23

Recommended Posts

Posted

Guys,

 

I just had my tires mounted Friday and I'm trying to figure out if I need more air in them.

The numbers change throughout the day from temperature changes but on a cold start this morning at 59 degrees, these were my numbers. Tires are 33x12.50r20 on stock GMC 20x9. 2014 Sierra.

Front: 31 35
Rear: 32 32

Thoughts?

Posted

On my 2008 half ton Silverado I had E rated 285/65/18 Trail Grapplers and I ran 35 PSI in them. They wore great for approx 25k before I traded the truck in.

Posted

Not sure what tires your truck originally came with but for example.

The SRA 265/65 18 would carry 2469 lbs at 51 psi. Roughly 48.5 lbs per PSI.

The Toyo 33/12.50 20 will only carry 2600 lbs at 65 psi, even though they are a 10ply E rated tire. Roughly 40 lbs per PSI

 

This is quick and wont be exact:

Look at the door jam and see what the recommended pressure was for the factory tires. If they were the 265's you can use the above numbers. Not sure what yours says but Example below

Front recommended 42psi. 42 x 48.5 = 2037 lbs. 2037lbs \ 40 lbs per psi for the Toyo will equal 50 psi.

 

I went through this when I installed that exact tire on my 2012 GMC2500. The above will get you very close to where you need to be. If you want to get it exact put you some loose chalk down on the driveway and drive through it. You should have even chalk coverage across the tire tread.

Posted

Not sure what tires your truck originally came with but for example.

The SRA 265/65 18 would carry 2469 lbs at 51 psi. Roughly 48.5 lbs per PSI.

The Toyo 33/12.50 20 will only carry 2600 lbs at 65 psi, even though they are a 10ply E rated tire. Roughly 40 lbs per PSI

 

This is quick and wont be exact:

Look at the door jam and see what the recommended pressure was for the factory tires. If they were the 265's you can use the above numbers. Not sure what yours says but Example below

Front recommended 42psi. 42 x 48.5 = 2037 lbs. 2037lbs \ 40 lbs per psi for the Toyo will equal 50 psi.

 

I went through this when I installed that exact tire on my 2012 GMC2500. The above will get you very close to where you need to be. If you want to get it exact put you some loose chalk down on the driveway and drive through it. You should have even chalk coverage across the tire tread.

So in short - about 38 psi for the Toyos on my truck.

 

Kidding aside, that was a great explanation, thank you. Door jam recommends 32 psi F and R. The stock 275/55/20 SR-A is 2403 lbs at 51.

 

So that's 2403/51 = approx. 47.

32x47 = 1504

1504/40 = approximately 38 Psi

Posted

So in short - about 38 psi for the Toyos on my truck.

 

Kidding aside, that was a great explanation, thank you. Door jam recommends 32 psi F and R. The stock 275/55/20 SR-A is 2403 lbs at 51.

 

So that's 2403/51 = approx. 47.

32x47 = 1504

1504/40 = approximately 38 Psi

You got it!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...