Jump to content

Question to anyone who has ordered a truck


Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks for the information guys. The 6.2/5.3 I could go either way. A co-worker has a Denali with the 6.2 and he gets decent mileage. I love my duramax, but it is getting old age wise but mileage is pretty low at 75K, so she still has a decent value. Milage I am getting 14-15 now that the winter mix is gone, and with the max tow-package in a 1500 I should be fine. My TT is about 7K dry, and I want the extra room just incase the wife decides she wants something bigger down the road, and I would rather not by on the edge. The tongue weight is high since the wheels are rear of center on the TT so that is another factor for the max tow. I have not gone to the dealer, only have been working via e-mail at this point. I may try another dealer and see what they say.

I must have missed the part that your pulling a travel trailer, I would stay with what you have. You will miss the 3/4 ton and the diesel. Buy a single cab for a run around truck save the diesel for the travel trailer. I must add one more thing the diesel working RPM range is much less than gas. The constant down shifting and high RPM can get annoying on a trip.
Posted

I love my duramax, but it is getting old age wise but mileage is pretty low at 75K, so she still has a decent value.

 

2006 Duramax (best year for 6.6L IMO) with only 75000 miles? Old? That thing is just getting nicely broken in. Throw a couple of accessories at her and she'll be like a whole new truck.

Posted

My dealer actually told me that he could save me money on ordering vs. finding a truck. His reasoning makes sense if you think about it. I ordered a Denali 6.2 4x4. It did take him a while to get it, but I got exactly what I wanted for a price I was comfortable with. His reasoning was this: He orders the truck, when it comes in, I go get it. It doesn't sit on his lot for a couple days, weeks, months, whatever. He doesn't have to pay inventory fees, put gas in it for test drives, pay employees to maintain it while it's there, you get the picture. I personally had a GREAT experience and will likely buy my next vehicle (car for the wife) using the exact same process.

Posted

I must have missed the part that your pulling a travel trailer, I would stay with what you have. You will miss the 3/4 ton and the diesel. Buy a single cab for a run around truck save the diesel for the travel trailer. I must add one more thing the diesel working RPM range is much less than gas. The constant down shifting and high RPM can get annoying on a trip.

Why would anyone want the max tow package if there were not towing something. I only tow it for vacations/weekend trips which typically are less than 500 miles round trip. Every two/three years we do a longer trip, last one was probably 3000 total. Having a second truck just is not something I want to do, I do not want another vehicle to maintain, fuel, and insure and two car seats in a reg cab just will not work. I use to tow with a 6.0L 2500HD and that was fine, rarely did it hunt.

 

2006 Duramax (best year for 6.6L IMO) with only 75000 miles? Old? That thing is just getting nicely broken in. Throw a couple of accessories at her and she'll be like a whole new truck.

I live in the "salt belt" so an 8 year old truck is getting old.

Posted

Why would anyone want the max tow package if there were not towing something. I only tow it for vacations/weekend trips which typically are less than 500 miles round trip. Every two/three years we do a longer trip, last one was probably 3000 total. Having a second truck just is not something I want to do, I do not want another vehicle to maintain, fuel, and insure and two car seats in a reg cab just will not work. I use to tow with a 6.0L 2500HD and that was fine, rarely did it hunt.

 

I live in the "salt belt" so an 8 year old truck is getting old.

Some people would want the max tow for the gear ( 373 ) and cooling. You didn't say you had a rust issue, that kind of miles on a diesel is nothing as you know.
Posted

Some people would want the max tow for the gear ( 373 ) and cooling. You didn't say you had a rust issue, that kind of miles on a diesel is nothing as you know.

The rust is not an "issue" yet, it is starting though (fuel door) and a spot around the drivers door handle. Yea the diesel miles are low, hate to dump it with that low of miles. I have thought of getting the rust fixed, but it seems I will be in a constant battle if I start down that road.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...