Bose speaker replacement help

[powerscc]

So after not being totally satisfied with the Bose system I opted for an upgrade. Under advice of installer I replaced all the speakers except sub with Hertz components. I originally wanted to add an aftermarket amp to all the new speakers and sub in hopes it would give a little added punch but they said I would probably lose all my chimes and blow the sub, so I decided to just run everything off the bose amp. After a lengthy, delayed install I finally got the truck back. Sound may be a little clearer but overall I would say it sounds not nearly as good anymore. Bass is almost completely non existent now. Not sure if they hooked something up wrong or what. Anyone have any advice or experience with this so I may give them some guidance when I go back? I don't mind doing a complete gut but want to keep stock head unit and all chimes and functionality. I get the feeling they have no experience with the 2014's.

I'm sure I left out plenty of details but this post is long as it is. Help!!!

[powerscc]

I have also noticed I have to turn the volume up more now to get similar loudness as before.

[ms55330]

Bose speakers are often odd ohms, if the resistance of the new speakers is higher it will effectively decrease the power output of the amp. that would explain having to turn it up more to get the same volume. I wouldn't recommend nonBose speakers with any Bose Amp. if keeping your chimes is important there are integration boxes from ~$100 and up

[bass mechanic]

that's because contrary to popular belief factory speakers are actually quite good these days and on a bose system they use 2 ohm speakers. because the factory amp doesn't have a built in power supply and runs off 12 volts at the output rail a 2 ohm speaker will draw about 100 watts and when you swapped out the speakers with 4 ohms you get half that much power.

also the factory amp is tuned and crossed over to match the speakers, now that you have changed them everything is out of whack.

 

ive been into car audio since 1986 hence "bass Mechanic" has nothing to do with the fish pronunciation.

 

to be honest I think the factory system is quite good, so much so I am leaving mine stock.

 

keep in mind that when you go audio shopping, the sales people there have been brainwashed into believing everything stock is junk, if they lived in a world of reality they wouldn't make many sales.

most of them wouldn't know a good sounding audio system if it fell from the sky, landed on their face and started to wiggle!

 

if you want my advice the only thing that's lacking on the bose system is that I am used to the bass coming from the rear rather than front, but it does make for some excellent mid bass. you might consider adding the sub unit.

if your trying to piss off the neighbors you'll need to remove everything and start over.

if your just looking for better sound, save your money and try adjusting the treble, mid and bass controls.

I've done 50,000 installs and when you go that route your on a totally different level!

 

also depending on what you listen to makes a big difference. if you actually listen to music, rather than rap that just blasts bass, treble and cusswords it really doesn't matter what you play it on because as much as I enjoy that genre as the next guy, I don't expect it to play perfectly on anything except a total revamp.

try rock and country, you'll find the music more enjoyable and it sounds better on anything you play it on.

you might also find it puts you in a better mood as well after a long day at work.

[GMC-AT]

I have a Bose system in my 2014 double cab....which is pretty good IMO. But I wanted a little more base.. so I got (1) 10in JL sub and JL amp added last week and it will completely blow your doors off now. All this BOSE system needs 1 good 8in or 10in sub to really wake up.

[powerscc]

Bose speakers are often odd ohms, if the resistance of the new speakers is higher it will effectively decrease the power output of the amp. that would explain having to turn it up more to get the same volume. I wouldn't recommend nonBose speakers with any Bose Amp. if keeping your chimes is important there are integration boxes from ~$100 and up

Thanks for the replies! Now I'm really torn on what to do. What integration box will work for the 14's if I go the total revamp route? Is the loss of bass from the bose speakers due to just the door speakers being replaced or did changing everything and leaving the sub screw it up even though it was left alone?

[Aaron1085]

I don't plan to revamp anything though would appreciate a little more SOUND ... Perhaps we can add more juice to the stock amp? I use my rear extended cab when the seats are flipped up so installing a big amp and sub box isn't an option.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

[Isriam]

there is a kit you can buy to upgrade the stock amp.

 

mechanic is right though, bose has odd ohm values which means you cant mix and match components. you need to replace it all, or do nothing with it. look through this forum there was a post a few days ago about a chevy/gmc approved upgrade kit for 700 bucks.

[powerscc]

So if I'm reading this right looks like I have two options. Put old speakers back in change everything. I don't mind changing everything as I'm sure the Hertz will sound great when hooked up to a good amp. I just want to keep the head unit in place without losing any chimes or functionality. I guess the only chime I would really be concerned with is the park assist. Does anyone know what exact kit will allow me to replace everything except the head unit? I would like to steer my installer in the right direction. Thanks for the help and insight.

[Isriam]

be careful, some who replaced the head unit had chimes coming out at max volume. seriously, go back to stock and add an amp/sub.

[powerscc]

Yep. The head unit is the only thing I am interested in keeping. Just need to know what adapter will let me do so. Or else I'll just go back to stock and quit being so picky.

[GMC-AT]

As stated above... just add a high quality single sub and amp .. and you are done. Leave the BOSE speakers and head unit ALONE.. once you start messing with this stuff you are asking for all kinds of trouble. Plus.. do you really want some stereo shop thug tearing apart every panel inside your truck? A 2014 they have likely not seen much of yet? No thanks..

[powerscc]

So now the plot thickens and I'm about to lose my xxxx. I asked my installer, which by the way is supposed to be the best in town, about just going back to my Bose and they tell me that they are no longer in working condition after they removed them. Seriously....WTF. So can anyone recommend a speaker setup that will work with the Bose amp and give comparable or better performance? Thanks again for all the help!

[bass mechanic]

Nothing you buy aftermarket will work correctly with that amp, your only bet now if find some used factory take outs or replace the amp and add a sub you'll probably be best off with a 6 channel and jl makes a great one

 

 

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[Brian Thompson]

Sorry to Necro this thread. Just wanted to put in some additional information for those who have the same question as the OP as this post is one of the first results in Google.

My Trailblazer HAD a Bose factory system. To me, BOSE means Buy Other Stereo Equipment, simply because they tend to focus their sound around highs and mid bass and leaves a lot of frequencies sounding dull.

I replaced my head unit with a Kenwood Exelon DNN922 which meant bypassing the BOSE Amp (I simply removed the fuse rather than remove the amp completely)

While the head unit with the adapter did power the stock Bose speakers, at 3 ohms for the front (Door speaker plus dash tweeters) and 2 ohm rears, it sounded awful and put the head unit in protection mode. I wasn't thinking that day. I bought Focal Performance PS 165FExpert Series 6-3/4" component speaker system for both the front and rear doors powered by a 900watt Kenwood Exelon 4 channel amp. They were installed without removing the original wiring. Only problem is I had to customize the mounting brackets for these as they are 6 3/4" instead of the factory 6 1/2". Obviously this was running from the 4 volt RCA jacks from the head unit. I then just mounted the crossovers under the dash for the front channels, and under the rear seats for the rear doors. 2x Soundstream 6k (Supposed RMS actual is closer to 4,500 watts) These are pushing two 12' Power Acoustik MoFo dual 2 ohm voice coil. I wired them to 4 ohm as these amps running bridged together only supports 2 ohm loads, while individually they support 1 ohm loads but with drastic heat increase. I get a lot of crap for the Power Acoustiks.... until people hear them in a properly designed box with fiber batting filler. Suffice it to say, it pounds hard enough it's broken my rear view mirror off, along with the inner layer of the windshield glass, and it's crystal clear.

Now to the point, the Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component speaker system are 2 ohm and sound great with the stock bose setup HOWEVER, for some reason, anyone making higher end consumer and pro market speakers are inexplicably making them 6 3/4" where the majority of vehicles are 6 1/2". If you're good with wood, you can made adapters, and Crutchfield does have some adapters for some vehicles.

I'm NOT posting this to prove previous posters wrong, because when they were originally replying, the answers were accurate. Things change pretty quickly.

Your best bet is still doing what I did, bypass all the Bose and run your own wires if using after market head units. I never use the head units built in amps as there is very little room under the dash around the stereo so you get volume drop out with average to high volume.

My current project is a 2014 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ with the Chevy Link. We don't want to replace the head unit as, surprisingly, it's a very nice unit having nearly everything my Exelon has, save for the cellular and Wifi, Internet access, HDMI inputs and RCA outputs. For this project, all of that is irrelevant save for the RCA outputs, so we're going with the amps high input for the subs as the infinities really make the Bose speakers sound terrible, which is saying a lot as the Bose systems have improved between my Trailblazer and the Silverado. We're going with two shallow mount 10" Fosgates and Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Mono amp.

If changing head units, you can get the chime and on star module for about $120.