Jump to content

Emblems and decals


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just curious: my truck has the chrome Z71 4x4 emblems on the front fenders, as well as the same decals on the back of the bed. The decals are shown on the window sticker as a $100.00 option. I think having both call-outs is a bit much, and am considering removing the stickers from the bed.

 

I see pics on this forum of bedside decals that say just Z71, and some trucks that are Z71 and have no fender emblem.

 

What is the option that gets the fender emblems? I thought that the Z71 option package had reverted back to being a 4wd option only (as it should be , IMHO), but maybe not.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

20140525_103640_zpsrcgt6whl.jpg

 

20140525_103655_zpsw2jucebp.jpg

 

Frank in Austin

Posted

Frank

my recollection of what Rich (a moderator and GM tech) explained about Z71 packages over the years was that they have included special shocks, skid plates, special suspension bumpers, and other things I can't recall right now. I believe he also said that it changed as years passed. My first recollection is that it was only a 1500 model option. Years later I saw it as a 2500 option as well.

Posted

The ones on the rear panel are optional @ $100 like you said, the ones on the front fender are standard on the Z71 4x4 for sure. There is also a Z71 4x2 for 2014 as well, but I haven't seen one on the road or in a lot yet. I noticed you also have the Texas Edition badge on the door. Yours is the first I have seen with the 4x4 added to the Z71 on the rear panel, the ones I have seen just had the Z71, even though they were also 4x4's. Some have debadged the Z71 4x4 front fender badges, but they are standard. Non Z71's have a 4x4 badge on the front fender, except for the All Terrain, and Denali IIRC.

Posted

It appears to me that the rear fender emblem is something your dealer added just to squeeze another $100 out of the buyer. Honestly, I think it's a bit too much when added with the fender emblem. Keep one or the other, but not both. Personally, I'd leave the rear fender emblem since you have a Texas Edition badge on the door. Or remove the Texas Edition badge and the rear fender emblem and leave the front fender one. As it is right now with all 3 badges, it looks tacky and cluttered.

Posted

1 call out is enough. Personally I would remove the fender and keep the bedside. However.. in your case the dealer installed the bedside decal wrong... it's about 1.5in too far forward. The 4x4 should not be overlapping the fender on the passenger side decal. The decal instructions state the exact measurements... most dealers get it wrong of course. Big deal? probably not for 95% ..

Posted

Im not a fan of any of the rear decals. But I never did remove them from my 08. I did take them off my 99.

Posted

I deleted my z71/4x4 badges from the fenders (they looked too clustered IMO)and replaced them with blacked out 6.2L badges from emblempros. I also blacked out the z71 fender badge and stuck it on the left side if the tailgate. After all that i added z71 bed stickers to break up the rear section of the bed. Pics are in my build thread.

Pretty happy with the look as if right now but I'm always adding and deleting badges & stickers ha

Posted

However.. in your case the dealer installed the bedside decal wrong... it's about 1.5in too far forward. The 4x4 should not be overlapping the fender on the passenger side decal. The decal instructions state the exact measurements... most dealers get it wrong of course. Big deal? probably not for 95% ..

 

I didn't notice that before, but you're right and it looks bad. I say remove the bedside decals, leave the fender Z71 badge and remove the Texas Edition badge.

Posted

I noticed the beside decal bending over the fender crease too. Shoddy work. It's shown on my window sticker, so the dealer deliberately added it when they ordered it, as opposed to a dealer add on like undercoating, etc., solely a dealer add, used to be.

 

I had a 2013 Texas Edition too, and it had both the Sierra and Texas Edition door badges, and I think that, actually, looked better than my door now. I have noticed that the Texas Edition Silverados around here keep both emblems.

 

2013GMC_zpsd695dfc7.jpg

Posted

"austingta" - "I had a 2013 Texas Edition too, and it had both the Sierra and Texas Edition door badges, and I think that, actually, looked better than my door now. I have noticed that the Texas Edition Silverados around here keep both emblems. "

 

New Build Texas Edition Silverados are now coming in with only Texas Edition instead of both emblems. Saw some new 'updated' models at Henna Chevy a few weeks ago amd read a TSB about it. Mine was built 8/13 and has both.

  • 1 year later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...