Jump to content

What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

RyanbabZ71

By RyanbabZ71
in The Off-Topic Bar

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GearheadSS
GearheadSS

Been a long time since I've updated this thread.  I finally changed out the wheels on the Chevelle and bought new(wider) tires for it.  I also did a 2 stage paint correction on it.  Before and after p

Glava2876
Glava2876

I’m getting it ready to go to the Syracuse Nationals.

Killain
Killain

WELL i DIDN'T EVER THINK i'D FIND ONE, EVEN SAID TO MY FRIEND THAT IT WAS NO LONGER POSSIBLE, BUT iT CAME FROM SW TEXAS, NOT A SPOT OF RUST, SO i WENT ALL OUT. TOOK 2 YEARS, and a lot of work But it a

Posted Images

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Back in the 80's those things were a dime a dozen. Nobody wanted them. Anything '72 and back was in demand, and compared to today, "demand" isn't a word you'd have used.

 

I would've stockpiled all those cars if I knew what was coming 30 years later .... :(

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

Are you kidding I had a 74 custom with a 350 I even like the big bumpers all of the 160 HP the 350 put out. And much later a 76, I put a 454 in that one. There're were some performing novas back in the day.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well sure - there were preforming Vegas too ... after we stuffed 350s or big blocks in them. :thumbs:

 

I wasn't much of a Nova guy. Never liked the looks of them. I did like the pre-'73 ones better though.

 

The mid 70's on up was a bad time for stock vehicles - they desperately needed modification. Useless emission crap and powerful insurance lobbies killed the power output almost overnight.

Edited by Jsdirt
RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Coated my wheels

 

63321819ebccaf4a261389ac0f94a164.jpg

 

Peekaboo

 

7969c2ced50f0deb26df164489d3e19c.jpg

 

 

Ryan B.

  • Like 1
Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anything made prior to 1976 is in demand here. No smog testing

 

I want something to toss an LS in and burn tires

Edited by Chris
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Nice - I didn't think CA had any exemptions on emissions. That's about the only good thing about living up here in this hellhole - anything built before a rolling 15 model year timeframe is exempt - so this year 2003 is exempt. Next year, 2004, and so on.

 

Thing is, our roads, road salt, and tropical moisture destroy 99.9% of them ...

 

I'm still waiting for that winning lottery ticket. I want a jet black '69 Grand Marquis convertible with a 428 under the hood, and a '68 GMC C20 with a 400 and peanut heads - a little HP, but ALOT of torque. :) Someday ...

 

5 more years and I can throw a 454 in my Silverado. :D

SnakeEyeSS Senior Enthusiast

SnakeEyeSS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ryan, go to your nearest hot wheels selling store now.

 

BGSMRKV.jpg

 

My wal mart didn't have the #1 (1967) for whatever reason. Hopefully they ran out of shelf space and will put it up soon.

 

I do find it odd the 10 or 13 Camaro isn't the Hot Wheels edition replica instead. And the 50th is absent. Just odd, those two seem like a given

Edited by SnakeEyes
  • Like 1
SnakeEyeSS Senior Enthusiast

SnakeEyeSS

Posted
Posted (edited)

The taillights look great, but it looks like the 3 seconds is off the 6 speed? The 10 speed ZL1 is a little quicker so I wouldn't trade a second or 2 for the Mag shocks and extra daily liviability. Been there in other cars, not worth it unless you are racing or adding to a collection, judging by reviews of the Z28.

 

If you don't see them soon I can get 2-8 at mine and ship them to you(if they are still there). Priced 1.04 after tax plus shipping. So $21 or so with a priority flat rate medium box(shipping kills it). Most were in really good shape. This is only the second set I have ever bought. :lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes
crafferty Senior Enthusiast

crafferty

Posted
Posted

Have been checking no walmarts around here have them yet

 

 

Ryan B.

https://www.facebook.com/ChevroletCamaroLover/videos/376078512775227/

 

This is tempting

 

 

Ryan B.

I just don't understand why GM created a track focused ZL1. The ZL1 is supposed to be a straight line performance car. The Z28 is the track version. It's still a beautiful looking car and would be sweet to own.

 

On another note I'm tossing the idea around of possibly buying a new left over 2014 or 2015 Z28. Some dealers have them listed at $50k which I think is a good starting point. What do you guys think?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just don't understand why GM created a track focused ZL1. The ZL1 is supposed to be a straight line performance car. The Z28 is the track version. It's still a beautiful looking car and would be sweet to own.

 

On another note I'm tossing the idea around of possibly buying a new left over 2014 or 2015 Z28. Some dealers have them listed at $50k which I think is a good starting point. What do you guys think?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

I have seen some for $45-48K. I contemplated it. Gonna stick with mine for now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...