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Posted

The Service Bulletin is the same as on page 8 of this thread but with the added text from above.

 

Again, this is tricky repair that is not even guaranteed to fix the problem. Expect your typical GM Service Manager who probably doesn't have a body shop to play dumb and want nothing to do with this headache.

Posted

The Service Bulletin is the same as on page 8 of this thread but with the added text from above.

 

Again, this is tricky repair that is not even guaranteed to fix the problem. Expect your typical GM Service Manager who probably doesn't have a body shop to play dumb and want nothing to do with this headache.

Thanks.

 

So, I agree this ends up being an extremely tricky repair. Two major concerns: first, even if repaired "properly", I don't see anything to prevent the roof from coming loose again. They really didn't change the design, per se, so why would one expect it to be any better then the original build.

 

Second, I've seen complicated instructions tossed to the repair community and the results are usually sub-standard. So, it's no surprise that the vehicles that have had the repair done are still not fixed. I suspect the repairs were less then adequate.

 

Just my 2 c.

Posted (edited)

Hey, where are you guys going. This is headed toward trying to fix a cause instead of addressing an effect. The causes are so many that GM or all of the brands haven't been able to find a fix (read the early pages). So that leaves the customer to find the fix? Even if the customer does get lucky and tells the dealer the transmission is the fix, for example, is the dealer going to change the tranmission based on what the customer thinks? Good luck with that.

 

Because of all the causes, if there are no ideas followed by action to mitigate the effect (buffeting/pressure), this thread will stall.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

All I am interested in is finding the root cause and the fix thereof, and making sure my dealer fixes it correctly, or GM buys it back. What else is there?

Posted (edited)

Wrench - I'm with you, continue providing feedback. But until you find the root cause, a fix, somehow ensure the dealer fixes it correctly, or GM decides to buy back your vehicle, what else there for you to do is mitigate it. The options provided on this thread may or may not work the same for everyone, lot of reasons why. But the "current" options singularly or in combination may give the customer some relief until there is a "better" option.

 

Doing nothing until or if there is a fix, should not be one of those options.

Edited by The Zip
Posted (edited)

What works for pressure up to this point; cotton balls placed around the mic and foam mic plugs placed into the mic O ring (may not work for eveyone, but this is based on it worked, may need minor adjustments). This provided some relief but the goal should be as close to 100% as possible. Excluding what GM is "not doing", what it is I "am doing", and whatever it is the dealer "may be doing", where do you guys go from here?

 

This thread is terrible with providing requests for information (RFI). You guys can really help your cause by providing RFIs when requested. Dealers are reading this thread. The more information, the more they will have to work with. (they’ve already plugged the mics, where did they get that from). The less information, well...

 

For all the folks on this train, if it's moving too fast and needs to throttle back, just say so.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

Zip, I understand what your saying about where you think this thread is going. It sounds like everyone is having same problem with slight variations.

 

Everyone is going in different circles to find out what the heck is going on with these related vehicles that's all.

 

This is where I'm currently at with my fix:

 

I just got the suburban ltz back from the dealer(after two weeks there) the roof cross bow fix and I did not fix the problem. It did fix the roof bows not being attach to the roof though. One can only think how many are driving around out there like that alone and what (if there are any) safety concerns just because of the roof bows are not attached. And I did inspect the heck out of the vehicle before signing and the dealer did put it back to showroom quality.

 

It still hasn't fixed "that something" that was the root of this thread. but it was something.

 

This pressure noise is such a hard fix to pinpoint. One minute it seems it's running rough and the window is down feeling (No windows are actually down), next it seems it's the rear end or a UV joint and there a clunk. It's just doesn't sound smooth and peaceful.

 

And I did get in contact with a GM Senior Advisor and started my Case #

 

 

Posted

biginjins - got it. Sore subject with me and the roof rails being a safety hazard, early on in the thread I was on GM pretty hard 'bout that, think that's why I have warning points today. Because of the different things that may be causing the pressure and buffeting, we should circle the wagons on the pressure issue, we are close. Then transition to the noise as we build steam.

 

Your vehicle (Suburban) doesn't get a lot of playing time on this thread, mostly Denali and Escalade extended versions. My vehicle (Tahoe) headliner does not have any flex at all, other than around the air vents, when I touch my headliner it's as though I am touching the roof. Current conversation on this thread about the mics will not help Chevy owners because the mics are covered under the headliner. But if it's any consolation, I think the Chevy headliners are better built, mine appears to be a couple inches of one piece dense foam, affixed to the roof. Does your headliner appear to be the same? If so, the common denominator to the pressure would be your extended version Chevy.

Posted

I have a 2015 Yukon Denali XL that has been back to the dealership 3 times now with the buffeting issue. We have done the whole roof thing where they peeled the headliner back and put some insulation in and glued the bows down. That did not help at all. This weekend I taped up the mics and took my family for a spin. Not enough difference to notice, maybe a 5% change for the better. It was a different noise though, a lot of highway noise outside was more noticeable. My dealership basically told me to quit bothering them, there is nothing else they can do. They will barely acknowledge the problem. They just keep saying, if GM comes out with a fix, I will get it. But it would be 6-9 months. I have called GM customer service over and over, and keep getting different reps that pass me off to another rep after a few days. I have had the car for 2 months and my dealership did offer to buy it back less 13,000.....I don't think so!! Waiting for a call from a new guy at customer service.....

Posted (edited)

Went to the GMC dealer to pick-up some grilles, Parts department only work Mon thru Fri so it was a no go. I initially fabricated a half circle mic well, but then changed it to a square mic well to fit between the pegs of the grille. This square mic well, affixed to the grille, should neatly encase the mic when the grille is put back in place.

 

The mic plug "fitting snug" in place, should mitigate the pressure (one concept may not work for all). But placing the plug snug will silence the mic to where it can't initiate the process of cancelling noise. What this infers is the mic plug should fit snug but it should not come in contact with the base of the mic. The mic needs a little room to breathe for noise cancellation, but snug enough to mitigate pressure. This is if you use the mic plug, I'll talk about the mic well later, I think this is the better option for noise and pressure.

 

It would be great if you guys can apply these concepts, but when I mention fabricating, the information may be more for dealers.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

Zip, couple questions.

 

What exactly us a "mic well"?

 

Why does the mic "need a little room to breathe for noise cancellation"? Breathe?

Posted (edited)

Breathe should have been taken figuretively. What should have been said was "need a little room at the base of the mic for noise cancellation".

Edited by The Zip
Posted (edited)

None of my concepts are scientific, and I am not a subject matter expert on sound. This is just me thinking out loud.

 

This is what I believe to be happening: Bumps, irregular roads, curbs, engine transition, etc, etc, is causing the roof liner to move waaaay more than it should. When this happens, the mics are mitigating resonance caused by too much movement by the headliner. At the same time, the mics are cancelling noise from the other items listed above. If the headliner was stable, the mic would just be cancelling noise, the pressure would probably not be there. When the dealer plugged the mics, it mitigated pressure, but did nothing for the noise. A photo of what the dealer did would have provided good info because a Mic Plug could be modified to mitigate noise and pressure, although not as good as the Mic Well concept.

 

This is what I recommend to do about it: Right now the mic is in an open space compensating for noise, resulting in pressure. I think the Mic Well will help with the noise and pressure. The Mic Well places the mic in a confined space, allowing the mic to operate normally to mitigate the noise while being encased in a “well” isolating it from resonance caused from too much movement of the headliner. As a residual, the Mic Well should also mitigate the pressure.

 

Mic Well and Mic Plug. The Well is designed to affix onto the grille (post 616 as a reference), the grille placed back in it’s housing (post 498, pic 2 as a reference), the Well encases the mic. Two configurations (rectangle and square) because I don't have a grille for exact measurements.

post-131535-0-44042400-1422776442_thumb.jpg

post-131535-0-44042400-1422776442_thumb.jpg

post-131535-0-44042400-1422776442_thumb.jpg

post-131535-0-44042400-1422776442_thumb.jpg

Edited by The Zip
Posted

Interesting, except for a couple of points.

 

First, the microphones are already in a "well" as you call it. There is a foam seal ring that bridges the gap from the surface the bracket that the microphones are secured to, to the back of the plastic grill. When the grill is snapped into place, is slightly compresses the foam ring. So, GM already fitted the vehicle with the so-called "well". And, the problem exists.

 

Second, I have completely disabled the ANC on more the one occasion and the problem did not go away, it did not get better. It actually got slightly worse, as proven by sound analyzer measurements.

 

You're barking up the wrong tree.

 

I am glad to see you are repeating what I've been saying all along, that all the various excitation forces (road bumps transmitted through the stiff tire and suspension, primarily) are exciting the headliner and the roof, but again, THE ANC HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT!!! I'm not sure how else I can say it, or stress it. If you don't believe me, pull the fuse that powers the entire sound system (which includes the ANC, of course) and take it for a test drive and let us know what you observe. If not, well then I guess it's just conjecture and hypothesis. Whereas, I have proven test data.

 

Again, just my 2 c!

Posted (edited)

Wrench - it's obvious my information is not for you, got it. Everything on this thread has been repeated too many times to count, so you don't have a lock on original information. My comments are not based on what you or GM did, we know GM's concept don't work and as for you, no comment (yet)

 

I am not experiencing any buffeting or pressure associated with this thread, pulling a fuse won't change that.

 

Now that you are extremely confident ANC is not the cause of the pressure and buffeting, what's next? A recommendation to mitigate what you found would be a good start if you have something to bring to the table, I'm sure folks on the thread want to know. Ok, lets go with "THE ANC HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT!!!". How does this help somebody out. Whoop dee do, so what. If you were reading this thread, you would know it doesn't matter about the cause, people just want the effect taken care of.

Edited by The Zip

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