Jump to content

Passenger Door Rattle


MurphDDm4

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Noises can be difficult to troubleshoot. I had several noises coming from the passenger area. I asked my wife to drive it every time we went somewhere so I could diagnose in the passenger seat.

  • sun glass holder - the little black tab on the right side - electrical tape jammed in the hole fixed that
  • Passenger AC vent - I was able to tap on the top of the dash and hear the rattle, like a box of Tic-Tacs in the passenger AC vent - Rem.oved the vent bezel, inserted a small piece of fabric where the vertical air door hinge is located. Problem solved.
  • About 3 other noises to troubleshoot! Gotta take them one at a time.

GM doesn't seem to use any felt tape where plastic meets plastic or metal. This is a simple step. Oh and my the way, the vent ass'y is made in China. Global economy means just that. I find the trim pieces are extremely well made for injection molded plastic parts. If they would only take the simple step of using felt tape. The truck is very quiet when not moving. I think all the double sealed doors and sound insulation makes it so quiet that you hear other plastic pieces rattling that one wouldn't normally hear.


Noises can be difficult to troubleshoot. I had several noises coming from the passenger area. I asked my wife to drive it every time we went somewhere so I could diagnose in the passenger seat.

  • sun glass holder - the little black tab on the right side - electrical tape jammed in the hole fixed that
  • Passenger AC vent - I was able to tap on the top of the dash and hear the rattle, like a box of Tic-Tacs in the passenger AC vent - Rem.oved the vent bezel, inserted a small piece of fabric where the vertical air door hinge is located. Problem solved.
  • About 3 other noises to troubleshoot! Gotta take them one at a time.

GM doesn't seem to use any felt tape where plastic meets plastic or metal. This is a simple step. Oh and my the way, the vent ass'y is made in China. Global economy means just that. I find the trim pieces are extremely well made for injection molded plastic parts. If they would only take the simple step of using felt tape. The truck is very quiet when not moving. I think all the double sealed doors and sound insulation makes it so quiet that you hear other plastic pieces rattling that one wouldn't normally hear.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Passenger door rattles fixed (some pics).

 

After reading through all of these rattle posts I spent the weekend applying what has been done already and coming up with a permanent solution to all the door rattles. I previously fixed the front dash with tape around the clips and removed the black clip from the sunglass holder. Now with the doors taken care of I can say the truck is 99% quiet.

 

The silver trim and area around the window switches were the main sources of noise.

 

1. Silver trim, I removed it by pulling with some force straight out. 4 clips hold it in place. Then using 3/16 vinyl foam weather strip I lined the outside. Lastly put gorilla tape over the holes the clips go in to and cut a slit through the tape for the clips to fit through.

 

post-167364-0-56605600-1487030834_thumb.jpg

 

2. Where switch trim meets door panel (previous post had a folder ticket jammed in the area). Now that the silver trim is off I unscrewed the four screws holding the piece in place and gently pulled it away from the door. I then used adhesive felt from JoAnn fabric, cut a strip and lined the area where the plastic meets the fake leather (this is where the rattle was coming from). Once the felt was secured and lined up I put the trim back on. The felt looks like it's supposed to be there, if you can even notice it. Tightened the four screws, snapped the silver trim back on and after a long ride and some loud bass music tests no more noise from the door. I did both doors even though the driver side was pretty much quiet from the start.

 

post-167364-0-61072400-1487032407_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-00652300-1487032461_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-56605600-1487030834_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-61072400-1487032407_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-00652300-1487032461_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-56605600-1487030834_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-61072400-1487032407_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-00652300-1487032461_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-56605600-1487030834_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-61072400-1487032407_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-00652300-1487032461_thumb.jpg

Posted

Driver side... Couldn't fit all pics in one post

 

post-167364-0-21024700-1487032670_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-21024700-1487032670_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-21024700-1487032670_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-21024700-1487032670_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just wanted to see if anyone has developed a rattle that sounds as if it is coming from the passenger side door. The rattle only happens on small but sharp bumps in the road like the small gaps between concrete sections. It also is very apparent on roads that are a little older where the smoother finish has worn down to expose more of the rocks in the concrete mix.

 

It is extremely annoying specially on a truck that has under 3500 miles on it. Hoping someone has had the same noise and located the issue before bringing it in to the dealership.

 

I also just recently noticed a feint clicking sound from time to time coming from my driver side door.

 

I thought these trucks were supposed to have the quietest interiors? Guess they were able to keep external noise out but forgot to do something about their interiors falling apart after a few thousand miles.

I have the same faint tick noise coming from the drivers side also. Its seems worse with a louder song with some bass. It almost sounds like the same noise when the turn signal is on, but with out the consistant pattern. Can anyone confirm that the turn signal noise generates from the speakers, like the chimes.?

  • 9 months later...
Posted

I used Mp's fix, minus the felt today. I have a 2017 Silverado I just bought and it has 500 miles on it. I used some foam stick on weather stripping from Lowes ($2) and it is taken care of. Waaaaaaaaay easier than trying to get the dealer to "find" and fix the rattle, took me about 20 minutes. This is why I love forums...Thanks MP87.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Just bought an 18... had door rattle. Very clangy metal sound around handle. It would come and go. I could pull and push sometimes it would disappear then come back. Bose radio. Very impressed with the radio BTW. Got very lucky. Took everything apart. Retighten... nothing. Snapped the cover off under the door handle and one of the screws was broke. The head was vibrating on the metal stud it was on. So lucky. Have to take it in to get it out... maybe. 

  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 12/28/2017 at 11:08 AM, rastasquid said:

I used Mp's fix, minus the felt today. I have a 2017 Silverado I just bought and it has 500 miles on it. I used some foam stick on weather stripping from Lowes ($2) and it is taken care of. Waaaaaaaaay easier than trying to get the dealer to "find" and fix the rattle, took me about 20 minutes. This is why I love forums...Thanks MP87.

I have this same problem, when you did the weather stripping did you only put it on the plastic piece that pops off or did you do it on the piece that pops off and on the back side of the panel with the door switches on it?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)
    • Did you tune out the VVT?  07-09 they did not have VVT.  2010-2013 they did.      If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...