Jump to content

Second battery or upgraded single battery?


Mike1220

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Alright so I apologize if I missed it but I tried using the forum search engine and Google and didn't get any real results

 

I just added 2 10" subs and a 1500W amp and now on a strong bass note I notice everything dim. I had this in my old car but never really worried about it. It seems much stronger in this car though and with all the computer systems in these trucks I don't want one to get fried somehow or damaged from having the power go up and down during certain songs.

 

I called 2 audio shops that I use and recommend to friends that are in my area. One said add a second battery that is an audio battery. But the other shop said to just upgrade the OEM battery to an Optima red top since it has a better reserve.

 

I do have a few other things coming off my battery like my light bars and HIDs and am considering maybe getting a curved 55" bar this summer. So I don't know if it may be better to get a second battery to pull power from for all the accessories and let the OEM battery run everything that is OEM.

 

I'm looking to do whatever is best for the truck. Not worried about if it's the more expensive option

 

Any opinions, advice, etc is greatly appreciated!

Thanks In advance for any help.

Posted

I did both... When i got my truck one of the first upgrades i did was upgrade my battery to an odyssey and added a second odyssey for even more reserve. Also i use my second battery primarily for all my addons (light bars, amp , hids , etc..)

 

Both my batterys are AGM. I highly recommend odyssey. One of the highest reserve and CCA. I believe in the past when i researched them they had a military grade 10yr life.

 

Remember whatever you do. It is recommended not to add a dry (agm) battery to a wet factory battery. If you just add on, get the most expensive wet battery autozone sells. Also if you add a second battery, Dont skimp on wire size. 1/0 for power and ground.

Posted

I did both... When i got my truck one of the first upgrades i did was upgrade my battery to an odyssey and added a second odyssey for even more reserve. Also i use my second battery primarily for all my addons (light bars, amp , hids , etc..)

 

Both my batterys are AGM. I highly recommend odyssey. One of the highest reserve and CCA. I believe in the past when i researched them they had a military grade 10yr life.

 

Remember whatever you do. It is recommended not to add a dry (agm) battery to a wet factory battery. If you just add on, get the most expensive wet battery autozone sells. Also if you add a second battery, Dont skimp on wire size. 1/0 for power and ground.

If I do get a second battery I will be looking around to find the best recommended shop around me to do everything. No BS work will get done on something as important as the electrical system. I am really thinking the second battery will be my best bet.

 

Also if I upgrade to a second battery I will likely upgrade the OEM battery as well. I should've stayed that in my original post.

 

Would you mind me asking how much it all cost for you to upgrade everything? Did you do the work yourself? If so how difficult was it?

Posted

For the subs you may check into a capacitor? But upgrading or going dual batteries is not a bad idea.

I thought of a capacitor and asked the local shops. They said with all that I have (I'm good friends with workers at both shops and friends with the owner of one so they know all that has been done to the truck and will be done) they recommended the second battery or upgrade the stock one. The capacitor just doesn't have the capacity to help cause when my lights dim it's from a big long draw of power and not just a short burst. So a capacitor would help, but not solve the issue, that's what the shops told me

Posted

I bought the batterys seperate and had my shop wire up the second. Each battery was around $200 - $250 i believe.

I also had my shop do the "Big 3" which is upgrading the power wire to 1/0 and grounding point to chassis and block. The wire was pricey but my shop hooked me up (pun intended, lol) But all said and done it was likey $600+ or so.

Posted

I stil have my 280a alt from my last truck and i havent put it on yet since i was told the computer wont utilize the extra amps.. still gotta look into that just havent got around to it.

Posted

I stil have my 280a alt from my last truck and i havent put it on yet since i was told the computer wont utilize the extra amps.. still gotta look into that just havent got around to it.

So you still have the OEM alternator?

Posted

I have a 1100 watt MB Quart and sometimes I play it LOUD. I never have any dimming at all.

 

Are you absolutely sure your power wire and ground wire are sized right and the ground is properly installed?

 

I see that you have 1500 watts but I get NO dimming at high output. My mirrors sure do rattle though!

Posted

I have a 1100 watt MB Quart and sometimes I play it LOUD. I never have any dimming at all.

 

Are you absolutely sure your power wire and ground wire are sized right and the ground is properly installed?

 

I see that you have 1500 watts but I get NO dimming at high output. My mirrors sure do rattle though!

Yes everything is hooked up properly. My old truck did the same but not as bad, and while this truck doesn't dim terribly, it's just noticeable and I would rather not have so much up and down power (from 11-15V whenever a good note hits) just because of all the computers in the truck.

 

 

Both shops have done several K2s before mine. I waited till they did other K2s so that they world know for sure how to do everything in these trucks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 525 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 287,500 Mile Service   8/13/2026   Reset Fuel Trims   Since the work done in the previous post there was a good improvement in response in all areas except right after a fill up where the LTFT would go -20%+ for about four miles while the STFT was near neutral. Before the work they both went very negative for a few miles after a fill up but act normal thereafter.    We did a systems check of the vapor recovery system for functionality and ability to hold a vacuum. That checked out fine. But this doesn't mean the charcoal canister is dead in the water. Testing that is next up. For now the reset of the fuel trims.    I intentionally shorted the fill exactly two gallons to eliminate any chance of filling the canister. On start up the trims were behaving normally until I got up and rolling where the LTFT went -10 / -11%% but the short was + 2 to 0%. Within a mile the the STFT offset the LTFT and by 2 miles they were neutral. HUGE improvement but still not hunky-dory.    I'll watch them for a few days. Perhaps another tank where I will fill completely to 'first click' and compare. Meanwhile on the hunt for a new canister and I'll toss another purge value at it for good measure. Pending the outcome of the canister test that is. Progress of any kind is welcome.    Fuel economy improvement with bringing hole #3 back to the living was a noticeable bump to the positive. Even on the few miles I drove after the refill I already see another bump up by the trims reset.     She's purring like a kitten with a warm bowl of milk.    BTW, adding 50 rpm to the idle took the majority of the negative timing out on cold start up and leaned the cold idle. No longer burbles in the cat. What a dumb way to heat a cat.      
    • Yeah, shame I can’t really get that filter easily anymore. Running a PureOne. Your fave!    TAN would be neat to see. Confirmation I ran it too long probably. 🤣
    • My son and I both bought new trucks in 2017. Both of us immediately put Truck Covers USA American Roll Covers on our trucks. My son still has his truck and it never sees the inside of a garage. We live in Alabama, so not much snow. My truck was my daily driver and was in the garage when I wasn't driving it or at work. No issues with either cover even after almost 9 years. About a year ago I sold my truck to my brother and bought a 2025 Silverado 2500. The second thing that I put on that truck was a new Truck Covers USA cover. They are very well made and have a very positive locking system. I looked at a Retrax and my concern was the way that the cover locked to the rail. BTW, the first thing I put on the new truck was step bars. Those new trucks are high!
    • The Allison 10 speed torque converter doesn't "lock up" like the previous transmissions. It has 4 operational modes; open, slip, transition from open to slip; transition from slip to open. I have an Edge CTS3 monitor and I monitor transmission torque converter slip. Step on the gas and you get a little slip. Take your foot off the gas and you get a little negative slip. I have not found a way to display the torque converter mode beyond that. My Edge CTS3 also displays something that our trucks should already display, the current gear. I also monitor throttle body position and engine load. If I see the engine load getting too high, I'll manually drop a gear.
    • Nice result. Your filter is working well  I'd have like to have seen the acid number for this sample. Curious type that I am. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...