Accessory switches in upper left cubby/pocket

darkfox1 · May 1, 2015

I put my aftermarket brake controller in the cubby for the factory brake controller

Doesn't actually look to bad and it's out of the way of my feet getting in and out of the truck

http://imgur.com/LufrbA5

http://imgur.com/du2mtal

http://imgur.com/D9mStJt

http://imgur.com/HL3iuhe

http://imgur.com/SmIkAbr

http://imgur.com/20lMOp6

Thats a good idea. They always mount the daggum thing right where your knee goes and you bang it getting in and out..

I'd say that turned out pretty good! I can't say thats my choice of logos or labels but..

Are they white LED? What do they look like at night? Do they match the stock white?

My wire harness is supposed to come in tomorrow, but I'm still not gonna install anything until my grill comes in. I wanna do this teardown once.

NitroDatsik · May 1, 2015

Thats a good idea. They always mount the daggum thing right where your knee goes and you bang it getting in and out..

I'd say that turned out pretty good! I can't say thats my choice of logos or labels but.. [emoji38]

Are they white LED? What do they look like at night? Do they match the stock white?

My wire harness is supposed to come in tomorrow, but I'm still not gonna install anything until my grill comes in. I wanna do this teardown once.

They are blue led. I'm waiting for my other switch covers, I'm not using that middle finger one. I just put it cus that's what I have now. I'm getting one with 2 spot lights for my spots, I'll check later to see how blue they are

darkfox1 · May 2, 2015

They are blue led. I'm waiting for my other switch covers, I'm not using that middle finger one. I just put it cus that's what I have now. I'm getting one with 2 spot lights for my spots, I'll check later to see how blue they are

Ah. yea from looking at the pic I see it now.

Hey, how did you route your wires? I'm starting to work on this. Theres a LOT of wiring in this dash! I got 4 wires fished from the rap up to the switches but I need 2 going out and I need to jumper 2 pins on the switches since I'm not running them off some kinda headlight indicator type thing. I have 14ga wire so I'm thinking things may be a little tight back thre.

NitroDatsik · May 2, 2015

Ah. yea from looking at the pic I see it now.

Hey, how did you route your wires? I'm starting to work on this. Theres a LOT of wiring in this dash! I got 4 wires fished from the rap up to the switches but I need 2 going out and I need to jumper 2 pins on the switches since I'm not running them off some kinda headlight indicator type thing. I have 14ga wire so I'm thinking things may be a little tight back thre.

I just ran all my wires with relays that are hooked up to the battery. I use 16 gauge, on the driver side inside the hood by the dash there's a firewall, well after that one there's another one. With a wire hanger just poke through, they should come out by the black box under the dash full of wires. Is really a pain in the rear but it can be done. Edited May 2, 2015 by NitroDatsik

darkfox1 · May 2, 2015

There's 2 baffles in there? I got through the first one with an all but the wire hanger goes so far (about 1/2" or so) and then just stops. I'm afraid to push too hard cos I dont want to tear up any of the wires entering the cabin.

darkfox1 · May 2, 2015

Very close to being "finished" with this!

just came in to verify a wire color before I solder something.

and to rest my feet and legs. I've been mostly in the shop since about 9am this morning working on this. So far so good!

darkfox1 · May 3, 2015

So phase I of this project is finally done for me.

Here is the final interior result:

I'm very happy with how it turned out. The white LEDs are a little bright for my dimmed state interior lights but not so bright that they distract me. The install, imo is very clean. The ONLY THING that bugs me is the amount of wire behind the panel forced the bottom of the switch panel trim to stick out just a little bit. Being a perfectionist, this bothers me quite a bit, but.. nothing can be done about it, so I'll just have to do my best to ignore it.

The only person that could tell really would be someone working on the floorboard anyway. So.. no problem really.

I don't have many pics cos I'm kind of beat up from crawling all over the place inside the truck, under the truck etc.

I made a custom harness for the front of the truck using some 14ga wire, 2 entire rolls of electrical tape, and parts of a harness I bought for this truck and didn't use. I also used a large weatherpoof harness I got from a junkyard.

This all uses the RAP accessory circuit in the junction box just above the emergency break to pull power to the switches. So as long as the ignition is on or the truck is in "accessory" the switches are live. You can always tell when the option to use them is available because they light up, so I like that.

When I turn the truck off they stay on until I open the door or ~10 minutes when the radio/RAP times out.

I did this because my truck didn't come with stock foglights and I wanted them, but didn't want to reprogram the BCM.

I can now run the fogs 100% independent of the headlights, low beams, high beams, no beams. I'll be using the other switch for a set of 1500 lumen "flood" LED lights I'll put behind the grill. With the lumens so low they may not help at all but.. they were $23 so.. whatever.

so far I'm happy! I recommend this route if you're thinking about accessory switches.

oh yea, I pulled the wires for the lights and relays through a grommet in the doorjam just forward of the door wire harness connector. Trying to go through the firewall grommet was a pita and I wanted to complete this today heh.

NitroDatsik · May 3, 2015

So phase I of this project is finally done for me.

Here is the final interior result:

I'm very happy with how it turned out. The white LEDs are a little bright for my dimmed state interior lights but not so bright that they distract me. The install, imo is very clean. The ONLY THING that bugs me is the amount of wire behind the panel forced the bottom of the switch panel trim to stick out just a little bit. Being a perfectionist, this bothers me quite a bit, but.. nothing can be done about it, so I'll just have to do my best to ignore it.

The only person that could tell really would be someone working on the floorboard anyway. So.. no problem really.

I don't have many pics cos I'm kind of beat up from crawling all over the place inside the truck, under the truck etc.

I made a custom harness for the front of the truck using some 14ga wire, 2 entire rolls of electrical tape, and parts of a harness I bought for this truck and didn't use. I also used a large weatherpoof harness I got from a junkyard.

This all uses the RAP accessory circuit in the junction box just above the emergency break to pull power to the switches. So as long as the ignition is on or the truck is in "accessory" the switches are live. You can always tell when the option to use them is available because they light up, so I like that.

When I turn the truck off they stay on until I open the door or ~10 minutes when the radio/RAP times out.

I did this because my truck didn't come with stock foglights and I wanted them, but didn't want to reprogram the BCM.

I can now run the fogs 100% independent of the headlights, low beams, high beams, no beams. I'll be using the other switch for a set of 1500 lumen "flood" LED lights I'll put behind the grill. With the lumens so low they may not help at all but.. they were $23 so.. whatever. [emoji38]

so far I'm happy! I recommend this route if you're thinking about accessory switches.

oh yea, I pulled the wires for the lights and relays through a grommet in the doorjam just forward of the door wire harness connector. Trying to go through the firewall grommet was a pita and I wanted to complete this today heh.

Looks good, yes there seems to be 2 firewalls cus yea after you go through the first it stops but if you poke it it goes through.

NitroDatsik · May 3, 2015

I got most of mine done today as well. Only thing missing is the 4d 20" bar that's going between my grill pods. Dropkick switch turns on fogs, zombie lights will turn on light bar, the middle finger will be changed to spot lights switch for the grill lights once it arrives, the middle blue switch is the disable amber lights, and the last blue switch is the backglow grill lights all my wires come from relays that are hooked up to the battery.

Edited May 3, 2015 by NitroDatsik

NitroDatsik · May 5, 2015

the new switches are in.

rcmike · June 1, 2015

Off topic a little ,but what else would you need after buying the trailer brake plate to have trailer brake capability on our trucks. On my truck there is already a wiring plug behind the plate that plugs into the trailer brake switch that I got. Is there not one more piece that's offered by gm in the accessory catalog to have trailer brake control on our trucks? Or is it best just to go aftermarket all the way ? 14 Silverado LTZ thanks Im going to be pulling a enclosed cargo trailer soon is why I ask.

rdhower3 · June 5, 2015

Off topic a little ,but what else would you need after buying the trailer brake plate to have trailer brake capability on our trucks. On my truck there is already a wiring plug behind the plate that plugs into the trailer brake switch that I got. Is there not one more piece that's offered by gm in the accessory catalog to have trailer brake control on our trucks? Or is it best just to go aftermarket all the way ? 14 Silverado LTZ thanks Im going to be pulling a enclosed cargo trailer soon is why I ask.

Unfortunately, you cannot add the factory trailer brake if you do not have the JL1 package. The rear module and wiring harness is not there, and cannot be added unless you want to spend some serious cash. So if your truck did not already come with the brake controller and has the JL1 package, it will not work, and you have to go aftermarket brake controller.

ncorry · June 30, 2015

darkfox1, see if this is what you are looking for...

http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/catalog/parts/view/n/switch-bezel-22817734/v/gmc-sierra-1500-2014/vtec/415495/pid/3b53308a18d540cd/

I have a 2015 SLE without park assist, without power adjustment pedals, without lane departure, and with hill assist. I think I have the part identied as #8 on the schematic, part #23145161. I was wondering, if I wanted to do a real clean installation of some extra switches, if I got one of the housings that had all six switches (#23145212), could I wire up the switches for the lights to the three "extra" spots- adjustable pedals, park assist, lane departure? I know the little pictures wouldn't match, but to anyone that has had their switch housing out, is this doable?