Jump to content

2014 SILVERADO TICKING / CLICKING NOISE

DROSS73

By DROSS73
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Harleyjohn54
Harleyjohn54

I think you might have this one wrong. My Sierra is at the dealer right now and one of the techs told me that there is a pressure valve that somehow runs the vapors from the fuel tank and unused fule

towdog333
towdog333

My ticks to and yep sounds like a sewing machine, from what techs tell me it's normal

Grandmainatruck
Grandmainatruck

I’m so relieved to read that this ticking is normal!I never even noticed it on my 2014 GMC Sierra really until some of the men I work with pointed it out. I told them it had always sounded like that a

51 ashton Enthusiast

51 ashton

Posted
Posted

Dross73 I feel the same as you. My dealer set me up with a regional.guy and all I got from him was lip service. My salesman at the dealership was reclassified and no longer ther. On two seperate occasions I couldn't see the. General manager and vice president to aide my complaints or questions to. They both seem willing to help when I had the sales manager from their dodge division was availible and set me up with a instant meeting with both. I have since gone back to purchase new accessories on two occasions and they didn't even have the parts in stock. Summit white touch up paint is what I wanted. I was so pissed I went looking for the gm and he want around. Went looking for vice president and he's not around. Went to Chevy dealer two doors down and the parts guy says " I got only have one in stock. How much I say, he says $30. I said no thanks Ill get rusto for six. So now instead of looking for a gm and go I'm looking at a ford 3/4 ton superduty. I parked side by side and compared mine with the ford. It's sad but the ford is hands down better quality then the GM product. Today I went to install rear wheel house liners that I bought back in Feb. I removed the hub cap and written on the wheel in black marker is the word "bent"! All the flaws I find on this truck is from constantly washing it by hand and trying to add OEM accessories that don't work. Is how I find them. I don't know whats bent if anything. Somebody saw something to write it on there? As far as I'm concerned, GM can get bent. Maybe next time around we let them fail its the only way they might get it right

Truckerado Enthusiast

Truckerado

Posted
Posted

I think dross73 & 51ashton should start a union called DROSHTON.... It will only be better for mankind if they join forces

14_rubyredltz Enthusiast

14_rubyredltz

Posted
Posted

Ah I agree its normal, my mother in law has a 14 with 5.3 and it ticks so much its crazy. I only have 1500 on mike so maybe it just hasn't started yet haha :):)

  • 3 months later...
Harleyjohn54 New Member

Harleyjohn54

Posted
Posted

I think you might have this one wrong. My Sierra is at the dealer right now and one of the techs told me that there is a pressure valve that somehow runs the vapors from the fuel tank and unused fule through the engine. That's why you notice the "ticking" when you start your truck and depending on things like temp, how long the truck has been sitting.....ect determines how long this runs. I notice that it disapears when I've been driving on the highway for a while. I'll let you know tomorrow because they kept the truck and they are going to check it on a cold start.

  • Like 1
towdog333 Enthusiast

towdog333

Posted
Posted

My ticks to and yep sounds like a sewing machine, from what techs tell me it's normal

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Benn363 New Member

Benn363

Posted
Posted

I have the 6.2 love it. No ticking noise but I run premium fuel. Absolutely no complaints here. Try running a full tank of premium, I work at a gm dealership, I swear it reduces the noise to nearly gone.

Does this work with e85 as well?

  • 4 weeks later...
Tedro Enthusiast

Tedro

Posted
Posted

I had a ticking noise coming from the engine bay on my 2015 Silverado 5.3 which was somewhat quiet after buying the truck but could be heard. Around 7,000 I took the truck because it got progressively louder. I was told there was a service bulletin on this and was normal noise to be heard from the engine(high pressure oil pump etc....). This ticking noise became louder to where it could be heard over my CAI. I took the truck in and had it diagnosed. It ended up being a failed lifter on the valve train. From there it just snow balled, effecting the camshaft causing pieces of it to break off which ended up scoring one of the piston walls. The truck needed to have a whole new engine block put in along with all new pistons, valve train and camshaft. the truck was in the dealership for almost 4 weeks. My advice is take in your vehicle if you hear any abnormalities from the engine while you have warranty, better to be safe than sorry and end up spending 8-10k in repairs. Thankfully, my warranty covered my issues....

  • 4 months later...
MiamiSilverado1500 Enthusiast

MiamiSilverado1500

Posted
Posted

Ok reading this still has me worried. I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 5.3L with 62,000 miles and the ticking just started up recently. It was never present before, repeat, NEVER present before. How can that be and also be normal? This honestly has me worried that I have a bad lifter and what that can cost me down the road. I purchased my truck in late 2015 and literally put highway miles on it since due to the distance of my job from home. I baby my truck honestly, never raced it. You can look at my profile and see what I've done to it. Also no tunes whatsoever.

 

I'm truly concerned

MiamiSilverado1500 Enthusiast

MiamiSilverado1500

Posted
Posted

Update....

 

 

Recently spoke to a local mechanic that I've known for awhile. Described everything to him and he thinks it's a bad bearing from a pulley. When I accelerate on the highway hard I hear a whining sound, not a squealing sound like a bad belt would produce. He said it would be a good idea to check the belt anyway.

 

I'll provide more updates soon.

  • 1 year later...
2015 GMC B New Member

2015 GMC B

Posted
Posted

I worked at a Dodge Chrysler and Jeep dealership and people always complained about this. Now I work at a GMC and Buick dealership and people still think the ticking is bad (its Not). I traded in my Ram 5.7L for a Serria 6.2L and I had ticking and clicking in both engines. Thats because of direct fuel injection (Which has already been stated). Its completely normal to hear.  my Ram made a louder ticking noise then my Serria plus I had to change my Rams transmission 3 times before I put 170 thousand miles on it. Not trying to sound biased but I've worked for both companies and GM has an older engine design and never had a problem. It can be annoying with the ticking but it will last longer then the ram in every aspect. 

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
Ga-Raised New Member

Ga-Raised

Posted
Posted
On 4/12/2015 at 12:12 AM, 14_rubyredltz said:

I have the 6.2 love it. No ticking noise but I run premium fuel. Absolutely no complaints here. Try running a full tank of premium, I work at a gm dealership, I swear it reduces the noise to nearly gone.

They owners manual says not to run premium in 5.7 only run it in the 6.2. Will it do harm to run one tank of premium in my 5.7?

  • 4 months later...
Dfair622 Enthusiast

Dfair622

Posted
Posted

If it hasn’t been fixed yet, and others are having this issue, it’s the torque converter failing. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...