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Cross drilles and slotted rotors,


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Posted

I would go with slotted rotors. Find out who makes them with a little research. EBC and Stop tech are a few places to start. Plan on dropping at least a grand for a decent set of pads and rotors. Also be wary of squeal on the better pads. Yea this is the tradeoff for better brake performance.

Posted

I would just find a kit using larger diameter rotors, a caliper relocation bracket and good quality pads. That's where you'll see better braking performance from more surface area.

Posted

Since we are driving trucks that are not intended to be race trucks why do we feel the need to replace what has been proven to be excellent 13" vented Duralife brake rotors. I am not knocking anyone for their desire to be better, but if it isn't broke why fix it is my opinion. I do like the Red calipers in the pic above but that is accomplished very easy with high temp paint.

Posted

I've got the 14" Wilwood kit ordered with black calipers and slotted rotors (you don't have to get drilled and Wilwood recommended slotted as I expected). Honestly I don't *need* it, but I want it. My eventual plans are longtubes followed by a supercharger. People using drilled rotors with the stock braking system and junk pads are wasting their money in both my opinion and my experience with cars autocrossing and on the road course. The pads will be the best bang for the buck on improving the stock braking system. Realize that pads are a compromise performance and low dusting and low noise are a balancing act and compromises in one area will affect the other. One nice thing about larger brakes is you can get away with less aggressive, more streetable pads.

 

The other thing to remember is that for most of us the limiting factor in braking distance will be the stock tires. Bigger brakes will fade less and allow for more consistent braking under heavy use, but won't make the truck stop that much faster. You can only stop as fast as the tires can provide grip.

Posted

To add to Rob's comments, where I see a big difference is in the high speed, heavy braking, with my 12.50 x 33 tires, especially when loaded up with all the hunting gear and 3-4 people, my 200 lb camper, 200 lb gun drawers, rubber bed mat, 2 dogs, guns, gear, lawn chairs, etc, and a seachest full of ice and drinks. But is also gets a workout daily on my 50 mile round trip commute to work on the Tijuana Grand Prix (southern Cal freeways)

Posted

To add to Rob's comments, where I see a big difference is in the high speed, heavy braking, with my 12.50 x 33 tires, especially when loaded up with all the hunting gear and 3-4 people, my 200 lb camper, 200 lb gun drawers, rubber bed mat, 2 dogs, guns, gear, lawn chairs, etc, and a seachest full of ice and drinks. But is also gets a workout daily on my 50 mile round trip commute to work on the Tijuana Grand Prix (southern Cal freeways)

 

Since chatting with Spurshot I have decided on the 16 front and 14 rear Wilwood Black caliper package and its in the Queue!

Posted

Only to be silly.. It's not CUE it is Queue

 

Only to be silly. It's not CUE, it is queue.

Is that better.

Posted

Meant no harm. Just made me smile

 

Just kidding back.....hard typing on a damn phone!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

One of the most important aspects of a quality brake rotor is wether or not it is made from damped iron. Damped iron rotors involve a metallurgy process that is much expensive than non-damped. Damped iron rotors will run much cooler and have less opportunity to create harmonics that result in noise. You can tell the rotors apart buy tapping on them. If it "dings" it is not damped. Most premium rotor manufacturers use damped iron rotors now. The next important set up on a rotor will be its vane configuration. Cheaper companies will skimp on the vanes and air gap of a vented rotor. If you can determine the characteristics of a rotor you are looking at buying you will be able to determine quality without subjectivity. The OE's use something like 500 different vane configuration today. I have found rotors where to save money the manufacturer widen the air gap so the rotor had a "thinner" surface area. Just some things to think on.

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