Jump to content

oil pump going bad?


Recommended Posts

Posted

What are some signs that my oil pump is going bad? I've yet to have a mechanical gauge put on it but I'm thinking this is what my problem may be. I've checked my oil level and its been reading full and lately its been having a tick type of sound when its warmed up. Also, if it is the pump that's bad what are some good replacement pieces I can use. I have an '04 tahoe z71 with the 5.3 under the hood.

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

What is the PSI reading on the dash oil pressure gauge at idle and under heavy load (like accelerating onto the freeway)?

Posted

From an ice cold start I have 40 psi but as the truck warms and is idling it drops to the last hash line (5 psi?) before 0, when the motor is put under a load it shoots back up to 38/39 psi. I was thinking that maybe the stepper motor in the cluster has gone bad but I'm rethinking my thought process being that there is a ticking sound when the truck is at idle and that's why I'm considering either the pump is shot or the pickup tube is clogged and not getting enough oil to the pump for it to operate correctly. This truck is my daily driver and this has been going on for quite a while, i just haven't had much time to try and get it addressed the way it should've been done.

Posted

Did you try the pickup tube o-ring? If the o-ring is old, air can get sucked in and there is volumetric oil pressure loss. I had similar pressure issues and did the pickup tube o-ring. Now I have roughly 50 psi at start/idle and 60-65+ under heavy load. I suggest pulling the pan (which is a bit of a pain, but do-able) and cleaning the pickup tube/replace the pickup tube o-ring before the pump to rule that out first.

Posted

Ok I'll look into that this week coming up, I did have something new happen when I was leaving work. I hit the remote start and on start up I had a plume of blue smoke come from the exhaust, I do know that it's an oil burn indication but I'm wondering if there might be something more going on internally now?

Posted

Typically that sort of behavior from the cluster is either a bad sending unit, or stepper in the cluster. (The mechanical guage reading would sort that out).

 

Ticking can be caused by many things. My '00 5.3L had a tick, and it was an exhaust leak my the manifold. My '08 6.2L has the TSB diesel chatter sound while it warms up.

Posted

I was on that wavelength with the stepper motor in the cluster but I'm not 100% sure, I did forget to mention that there is a slight leak on the right side of the motor and that's another piece in my thinking it may be a mechanical defect

Posted

I did the oil pressure switch a couple months ago and still have the same issue, spoke with a tech from the shop I go to for service and he's thinking it may be the bearings are shot causing the oil pressure issue. Gonna have them check it out on Tuesday. He does seem to think that the motor could be done but can't say definitely w/o the reading from a mechanical gauge. If that is the case would it be more beneficial to have another engine put in or get rid of the truck for something else???

Posted

Personally, I'd just toss on a mechincal guage to confirm before speculating on anything. It could be bad gauge cluster to blown motor. That's a wide range from phew to fark.... :)

Posted

x2 on another gauge to test first. If that confirms low pressure and if the o-ring has never been replaced as far as you know, I'd definitely suggest trying that as well before you do a motor swap. My oil pressure would drop near zero sometimes and a few times the light did come on as well. The o-ring combined with cleaning the sludge out of the pan and flushing the pickup tube while it was out has helped for many, myself included.

I used a Fel-Pro FPG 72401 o-ring ($2.29 at NAPA). You'd probably want to do a new pan gasket as well, which is pricey ($47.99 Fel-Pro at AutoZone). You have to drill out the alignment rivets on the OEM one if it hasn't been done before, but it's all not too hard. All of this is definitely cheaper to start with than a new motor!

Here is a YT video that helped me:

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...