Speaker Replacement Part ll

[GRN69CHV]

I've documented the various mods as I've done them, a brief overview.

 

(So far, all combos were ran off the Alpine 445U compact amp)

 

1. Replaced rear door speakers with set of Earthquake 8" shallow subs we had on the shelf, ran as full range, front/dash speakers stock. Sound was definite improvement over stock, but overall still kinda flat and lacking high end.

 

2. Replaced front door speakers with Alpine TY-R 6x9 (8" subs and factory dash speakers remained). Bass (let me say mid bass) became over powering.

 

3. Replaced rear door speakers and dash speakers with set of Alpine TY-S 6.5" components with tweeter mounted in stock location. Highs much improved, but sound was too bright with a definite lack of quality mids for vocals and instruments. Deeper bass from the 8's is definitely missing, but (despite the extensive use of sound deadener in the rear doors) so is the occasional sheet metal buzzing.

 

4. Replaced the Alpine dash tweeters with a set of GM Bose dash tweeters from a '15 Caddy XTS, crossed over at 1000hz (FYI 2" speaker) (Got these off of Ebay for $14.00 so worth a try) A move in the right direction. I think mounting the dome type tweeters in factory dash location buried under that grille, you lose a lot of character (best way I can explain it).

 

5. Back to the drawing board. Moving forward, dash speakers to be replaced with 2.75", crossed over between 200hz - 500hz, going forward these will be ran off the factory HU with the doors on a separate amp. Came up with 5 options.

A. Factory Non-Bose dash speaker #22753377 ($10.00 ea)

B. Factory Bose system dash speaker #22933869 These run about 65.00 each, think there's better ways to drop 130.00

C. Powerbass S-275CF http://www.powerbassusa.com/s-275cf-chrysler%E2%84%A2-ford%E2%84%A2-oem

D. Memphis Audio 15-PR275 http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/speakers/power-reference-coaxial-speakers/15pr275/

E. Sundown Audio SA-2.75 http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/speakers/item/sa-series-components-full-range.html

 

Leaning to the Sundown SA-2.75.

 

Rear doors will probably leave the Alpine Ty-S 6.5 woofers. Front doors, up in the air, not sure I like the loud mid bass from the TY-R 6x9's. Am considering changing all the door speakers to dedicated 6.5" mid drivers on their own 4 channel amp, possibly components in front doors with tweeter mounted somewhere on the A-pillar trim and adding a sub.

[crewl1]

Sounds like you know what you are doing with all the installs you have done but I also get the sense you are trying to reinvent the wheel here.

Others have had success by adding components up front with the tweeters in the dash, and coax in the rear doors along with an in cab sub of your preferred size.

 

Personally I don't like having bass coming out the doors and was happy with the mids and highs from the Bose unit, so I just added a powered JL Audio 10" sub under the passenger rear seat and took some bass out of the front doors with bass blockers.

 

Simple install and I am very happy with the sound.

[rocknfire]

Mounting quality separates in a verticals array in the door speaker locations will give excellent imaging.

 

Angled pods in the kick panels would be even better.

[GRN69CHV]

Sounds like you know what you are doing with all the installs you have done but I also get the sense you are trying to reinvent the wheel here.

Others have had success by adding components up front with the tweeters in the dash, and coax in the rear doors along with an in cab sub of your preferred size.

 

Personally I don't like having bass coming out the doors and was happy with the mids and highs from the Bose unit, so I just added a powered JL Audio 10" sub under the passenger rear seat and took some bass out of the front doors with bass blockers.

 

Simple install and I am very happy with the sound.

Better components may work with tweeter in the dash, and yes, need to get bass out of the doors.

[Jeff5347]

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

 

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[GRN69CHV]

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

 

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Mounting the tweeter from the components in the factory dash location, under the grill, bouncing off the windshield did not do it for me. I gave it a good week and listened to a lot of different music, Too much separation. Due to the low location of the front door speakers and depth of the dash, I think these trucks need to have a lower crossover point at the dash, much like the factory did, only with better sound quality speakers and some amplification. As for amps, I will probably keep the little Alpine 445U to power the dash and rear doors and install my Rockford R400-4D to power the front doors and a sub. Not really into big bass, I recently heard a JL Audio CP106 Micro Sub and was pleased with the depth of bass. Not pounding, but added just what I am after.

[Jeff5347]

Grn, the tweeter components I'm getting have the different holders in the box with them dependin g on which angle you want. Flat, so straight up or angled which to me looks like 30 degrees. So if I did put them where the factory dash is I'd stick them on top of the grill so I can adjust them on the sound. Minus cutting where would you locate the tweeters. Also I was tossing around the 445u as well but its a 45/w per CH amp. Under the speaker rating so not sure I want to under power the speakers. I will say the rear door pioneers run off factory wattage is no good. Being the rear doors are cut in volume and mid bass loss you can't even hear them. Def need an amp for the doors

 

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[crewl1]

I believe the factory speakers use a lower resistance so replacing them with aftermarket requires amping the new speakers.

If you want to control multiple amps and crossover points an Audio Control LC2i in combination with a 6XS might do the trick.

Are you happy with the JL Audio sub?

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

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[UrbanRage]

Are the dash tweeters and doors speakers connected to the same output? I plan on adding the Kicker Sub w/ Amp and Digital Sound Processor and also changing out the factory speakers. So would you guys recommend getting a component set for the front doors and dash? I understand that this isn't gonna be a banging system, just looking for a little more sound. I appreciate any advise you guys can provide.

 

2015 GMC w/ 8" head unit non-Bose.

[Jeff5347]

I believe the factory speakers use a lower resistance so replacing them with aftermarket requires amping the new speakers.

If you want to control multiple amps and crossover points an Audio Control LC2i in combination with a 6XS might do the trick.

Are you happy with the JL Audio sub?

Oh yeah. For a small sub of is more than what I thought it would do. I was trying diff music to see its range. With house and techno it has some nice deep run thru your chest bass. Rock, if there is a nice kick drum you just feel it! I listen to country, classic rock, metal and hard rock. With country its OK. With something like Volbeat, limp bizcut or FfDP it sounds amazing. I have the factory bass at 0 right now cause I want to limit bass to the doors but once I can do that with an amp I can turn up the bass on radio.

I do wish I could have installed my 2/12s though. I would have started breaking glass lol

 

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[Jeff5347]

I also bought to wire inline whatever amp I get the 2 metra connectors. My plan is use a 9 wire from the radio to the amp and back to the factory speaker plug. Only bypassing the factory speaker plug for the fronts and running the speaker wire right to the doors and dash instead of hacking the factory wiring.

 

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[crewl1]

In case you guys had not seen this, take a look at this install.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/159994-2014-chevy-silverado-musicar-northwest.html

Maybe some of the approaches and electronics used will be applicable for your systems.

[Strykers_Inc]

In case you guys had not seen this, take a look at this install.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/159994-2014-chevy-silverado-musicar-northwest.html

Maybe some of the approaches and electronics used will be applicable for your systems.

 

Or mine in the build section....start from the last page......forgot to add that

[Jeff5347]

 

Or mine in the build section....start from the last page......forgot to add that

Is it the mosconi DSP. Damn those are pricey. Def not looking to spend 600. I have a 2 CH amp that puts out more than enough to power the fr and RR doors. Are your rears just for some fill or do you even utilize them. What I was thinking is that the amp is 2 ohm stable so if I wire left fr and RR and right fr and rear which are 4 ohm would give me 2 ohms wire parallel. Only downside is the rear would be s loud as the front.

 

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[Strykers_Inc]

Is it the mosconi DSP. Damn those are pricey. Def not looking to spend 600. I have a 2 CH amp that puts out more than enough to power the fr and RR doors. Are your rears just for some fill or do you even utilize them. What I was thinking is that the amp is 2 ohm stable so if I wire left fr and RR and right fr and rear which are 4 ohm would give me 2 ohms wire parallel. Only downside is the rear would be s loud as the front.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

The Mosconi 6to8V8 gives me full control of the system via Laptop. SO there is a lot you can do with one. If its not in your budget, well then its not in your budget, but you can pick up a used one for around $400. Nevertheless, the C8's going in my doors are part of a 3-way system for the front stage. The C6's in the rear doors are not acting as rear fill, but are in sequence with my front door C8's. One of my amps is powering them. It is a four-channel amp so I can control gain input (5db-front/3db-rear) so the are playing together without overpowering the smaller driver. I chose this configuration rather than running two 6.5's in the front door and recreating what my friend Kyle has already done with his Focal install. I figured the rear speaker positions are close enough to the driver that it would be hard to tell they are behind your ear when time delay is active and they are in sync with the larger driver in the door. They are midbass drivers only.