Jump to content

Speaker Replacement Part ll

GRN69CHV

By GRN69CHV
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

I've documented the various mods as I've done them, a brief overview.

 

(So far, all combos were ran off the Alpine 445U compact amp)

 

1. Replaced rear door speakers with set of Earthquake 8" shallow subs we had on the shelf, ran as full range, front/dash speakers stock. Sound was definite improvement over stock, but overall still kinda flat and lacking high end.

 

2. Replaced front door speakers with Alpine TY-R 6x9 (8" subs and factory dash speakers remained). Bass (let me say mid bass) became over powering.

 

3. Replaced rear door speakers and dash speakers with set of Alpine TY-S 6.5" components with tweeter mounted in stock location. Highs much improved, but sound was too bright with a definite lack of quality mids for vocals and instruments. Deeper bass from the 8's is definitely missing, but (despite the extensive use of sound deadener in the rear doors) so is the occasional sheet metal buzzing.

 

4. Replaced the Alpine dash tweeters with a set of GM Bose dash tweeters from a '15 Caddy XTS, crossed over at 1000hz (FYI 2" speaker) (Got these off of Ebay for $14.00 so worth a try) A move in the right direction. I think mounting the dome type tweeters in factory dash location buried under that grille, you lose a lot of character (best way I can explain it).

 

5. Back to the drawing board. Moving forward, dash speakers to be replaced with 2.75", crossed over between 200hz - 500hz, going forward these will be ran off the factory HU with the doors on a separate amp. Came up with 5 options.

A. Factory Non-Bose dash speaker #22753377 ($10.00 ea)

B. Factory Bose system dash speaker #22933869 These run about 65.00 each, think there's better ways to drop 130.00

C. Powerbass S-275CF http://www.powerbassusa.com/s-275cf-chrysler%E2%84%A2-ford%E2%84%A2-oem

D. Memphis Audio 15-PR275 http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/speakers/power-reference-coaxial-speakers/15pr275/

E. Sundown Audio SA-2.75 http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/speakers/item/sa-series-components-full-range.html

 

Leaning to the Sundown SA-2.75.

 

Rear doors will probably leave the Alpine Ty-S 6.5 woofers. Front doors, up in the air, not sure I like the loud mid bass from the TY-R 6x9's. Am considering changing all the door speakers to dedicated 6.5" mid drivers on their own 4 channel amp, possibly components in front doors with tweeter mounted somewhere on the A-pillar trim and adding a sub.

crewl1 Enthusiast

crewl1

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you know what you are doing with all the installs you have done but I also get the sense you are trying to reinvent the wheel here.

Others have had success by adding components up front with the tweeters in the dash, and coax in the rear doors along with an in cab sub of your preferred size.

 

Personally I don't like having bass coming out the doors and was happy with the mids and highs from the Bose unit, so I just added a powered JL Audio 10" sub under the passenger rear seat and took some bass out of the front doors with bass blockers.

 

Simple install and I am very happy with the sound.

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like you know what you are doing with all the installs you have done but I also get the sense you are trying to reinvent the wheel here.

Others have had success by adding components up front with the tweeters in the dash, and coax in the rear doors along with an in cab sub of your preferred size.

 

Personally I don't like having bass coming out the doors and was happy with the mids and highs from the Bose unit, so I just added a powered JL Audio 10" sub under the passenger rear seat and took some bass out of the front doors with bass blockers.

 

Simple install and I am very happy with the sound.

Better components may work with tweeter in the dash, and yes, need to get bass out of the doors.

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Mounting the tweeter from the components in the factory dash location, under the grill, bouncing off the windshield did not do it for me. I gave it a good week and listened to a lot of different music, Too much separation. Due to the low location of the front door speakers and depth of the dash, I think these trucks need to have a lower crossover point at the dash, much like the factory did, only with better sound quality speakers and some amplification. As for amps, I will probably keep the little Alpine 445U to power the dash and rear doors and install my Rockford R400-4D to power the front doors and a sub. Not really into big bass, I recently heard a JL Audio CP106 Micro Sub and was pleased with the depth of bass. Not pounding, but added just what I am after.

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Grn, the tweeter components I'm getting have the different holders in the box with them dependin g on which angle you want. Flat, so straight up or angled which to me looks like 30 degrees. So if I did put them where the factory dash is I'd stick them on top of the grill so I can adjust them on the sound. Minus cutting where would you locate the tweeters. Also I was tossing around the 445u as well but its a 45/w per CH amp. Under the speaker rating so not sure I want to under power the speakers. I will say the rear door pioneers run off factory wattage is no good. Being the rear doors are cut in volume and mid bass loss you can't even hear them. Def need an amp for the doors

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

crewl1 Enthusiast

crewl1

Posted
Posted

I believe the factory speakers use a lower resistance so replacing them with aftermarket requires amping the new speakers.

If you want to control multiple amps and crossover points an Audio Control LC2i in combination with a 6XS might do the trick.

Are you happy with the JL Audio sub?

Figured I'd chime in since my system is in the middle of installation. I installed the jl audio powered sealed 10 inch sub under the Dr rear seat. Have pioneer 1602r coaxials in rear doors. I had bought speaker baffles for the doors front and rear but really couldn't tell a difference. I have pioneer d1730c components coming for the front and dash location.

I noticed replacing the rear speakers I lost mid bass. The stocks didn't have the clarity or highs but had mid bass. The 1602r's that are in the rear Dr have nice clarity but no mid bass...but this is unamped as well.

I think amping the doors and dash and having dedicated bass from the jl sub will sound nice. Only really worthwhile but too expensive is a new head unit to control crossover points, crossover slopes and a good eq but at 4k for an alpine is ludicrous.

As for the dash speakers I was talking to my audio guy and he said he never liked dash speakers bouncing off a windshield. He said either mount them on the dash grills angled slightly up and to the middle say to the center console so the left dash aims at the passenger ear and the right dash at the drivers ear. This would give a good sound stage and not let the highs be piercing loud to any one person. After that with the crossovers that pioneer has the tweeter crossover is switchable from -3,0,+3 db. The other mounting spots would be somewhere in the a pillar or doors. I'm not one for cutting a 4 week old truck up so I will probably experiment different spots and angles on the factory grill area. My other problem is deciding on a amp to power the door speakers. 60 watt speakers so I'm tossing around a pioneer gm a6604 = 60 w a CH. or a Rockford fosgate pbr300x4 at 75w a CH.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

UrbanRage Enthusiast

UrbanRage

Posted
Posted

Are the dash tweeters and doors speakers connected to the same output? I plan on adding the Kicker Sub w/ Amp and Digital Sound Processor and also changing out the factory speakers. So would you guys recommend getting a component set for the front doors and dash? I understand that this isn't gonna be a banging system, just looking for a little more sound. I appreciate any advise you guys can provide.

 

2015 GMC w/ 8" head unit non-Bose.

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

I believe the factory speakers use a lower resistance so replacing them with aftermarket requires amping the new speakers.

If you want to control multiple amps and crossover points an Audio Control LC2i in combination with a 6XS might do the trick.

Are you happy with the JL Audio sub?

Oh yeah. For a small sub of is more than what I thought it would do. I was trying diff music to see its range. With house and techno it has some nice deep run thru your chest bass. Rock, if there is a nice kick drum you just feel it! I listen to country, classic rock, metal and hard rock. With country its OK. With something like Volbeat, limp bizcut or FfDP it sounds amazing. I have the factory bass at 0 right now cause I want to limit bass to the doors but once I can do that with an amp I can turn up the bass on radio.

I do wish I could have installed my 2/12s though. I would have started breaking glass lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

I also bought to wire inline whatever amp I get the 2 metra connectors. My plan is use a 9 wire from the radio to the amp and back to the factory speaker plug. Only bypassing the factory speaker plug for the fronts and running the speaker wire right to the doors and dash instead of hacking the factory wiring.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

In case you guys had not seen this, take a look at this install.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/159994-2014-chevy-silverado-musicar-northwest.html

Maybe some of the approaches and electronics used will be applicable for your systems.

 

Or mine in the build section....start from the last page......forgot to add that

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

 

Or mine in the build section....start from the last page......forgot to add that

Is it the mosconi DSP. Damn those are pricey. Def not looking to spend 600. I have a 2 CH amp that puts out more than enough to power the fr and RR doors. Are your rears just for some fill or do you even utilize them. What I was thinking is that the amp is 2 ohm stable so if I wire left fr and RR and right fr and rear which are 4 ohm would give me 2 ohms wire parallel. Only downside is the rear would be s loud as the front.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

Is it the mosconi DSP. Damn those are pricey. Def not looking to spend 600. I have a 2 CH amp that puts out more than enough to power the fr and RR doors. Are your rears just for some fill or do you even utilize them. What I was thinking is that the amp is 2 ohm stable so if I wire left fr and RR and right fr and rear which are 4 ohm would give me 2 ohms wire parallel. Only downside is the rear would be s loud as the front.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

The Mosconi 6to8V8 gives me full control of the system via Laptop. SO there is a lot you can do with one. If its not in your budget, well then its not in your budget, but you can pick up a used one for around $400. Nevertheless, the C8's going in my doors are part of a 3-way system for the front stage. The C6's in the rear doors are not acting as rear fill, but are in sequence with my front door C8's. One of my amps is powering them. It is a four-channel amp so I can control gain input (5db-front/3db-rear) so the are playing together without overpowering the smaller driver. I chose this configuration rather than running two 6.5's in the front door and recreating what my friend Kyle has already done with his Focal install. I figured the rear speaker positions are close enough to the driver that it would be hard to tell they are behind your ear when time delay is active and they are in sync with the larger driver in the door. They are midbass drivers only.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 644 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...