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It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is. -
I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary. Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes. Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades. The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since. Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first! GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now. -
Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂 There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
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If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works. -
It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together. I also touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules. I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags. The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out. For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on). The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system. That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected. It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work. For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way. I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
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