Jump to content

Suggestions For Muffler Trial


ProModMike

Recommended Posts

Posted

Gents, quick update. out of the mufflers we grabbed yesterday, it seems that a MagnaFlow 14239/14264 is an ideal configuration for the way the factory exhaust is routed. Since the exhaust turns up and towards the driveshaft in front the of the muffler, having the offset inlet makes that connection much easier and since the factory muffler has an offset upwards, but center outlet, having the offset outlet and mounting the muffler at an angle across the center axis of the truck allows you to tie right back into the factory pipe out. Having relocated the flapper valve upstream of the muffler requires a short "patch pipe" to make up the distance and difference in length. Has anyone shopped this option/configuration?

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

We had time to test 3 mufflers. The 12229/14229, and the ProXS so far. Our current configuration is with the resonator still in the stock location and the flapper valve UPSTREAM of the muffler. The Borla has fantastic growl to it as it should. It didn't drone at all in the cab and was nearly silent at cruising speeds, but for some reason, and I'm working on what to play with to see if I can pinpoint what effects it, the V4 chopper sound was fairly prominent. Makes no sense. It's possible we need to move the flapper valve closer to the muffler to smooth the gas velocity immediately upon entry to the muffler. No noticeable seat of the pants meter increased readings. This system sounds great when you deck it. Kind of a "big inch motor-ish" kinda sound. Very bassy and rich but without the cackle gargling off the throttle.

 

The 12229/14229 was fantastic. I would suspect this would be an ideal setup for most folks. It lets you know it's there when you start it up, barely rumbles at idle outside, can't hear it at all inside, growls just a bit at take off inside, fades away as you approach cruising speed and the V4 transition is almost inaudible. Now, roll the windows down and deck it and AH HA!!! There she is!!!! Once we're done with testing, this will most likely be the system I retain permanently. I would imagine the results would be very similar, just much louder without the resonator. But our goal was to test a system to see if we could replicate what the GM Borla system delivers only at a much lower price point.

 

I'm working on compiling the measurements and editing the video right now, and I have a lot. About 30 minutes of video total. I made the mistake of recording in 4K, lol. So the rendering is taking a while and the upload will probably take 12 hours. I refuse to downscale the quality, so don't even say it, lol. The video is as subjective as any other YouTube exhaust video, but with the real time measurements and graphs next to it, you'll be able to SEE the sound. I'm hurrying, guys!!

Posted

This is going to be amazing for the community. Anyone will be able to refer to this thread when deci5on an exhaust.

Posted

Awesome work bud... cant wait to see the results. I will be ordering a muffler after I see/hear some of these results.

Posted

Thank you for doing this, Im sure the whole community appreciates your work!

Posted

Bear with me, fellas. My pesky day job has been interfering. That and during editing i realized my copilot ran his mouth a few times during crucial data recording, lol. He's been sent to the Middle East to think about his mistakes. So I had to re-record a couple things and seeing if I can splice it in without sacrificing quality. We plan to strap on the rest of the mufflers and finish testing tomorrow afternoon.

Posted

The 12229/14229 was fantastic. I would suspect this would be an ideal setup for most folks. It lets you know it's there when you start it up, barely rumbles at idle outside, can't hear it at all inside, growls just a bit at take off inside, fades away as you approach cruising speed and the V4 transition is almost inaudible. Now, roll the windows down and deck it and AH HA!!! There she is!!!! Once we're done with testing, this will most likely be the system I retain permanently. I would imagine the results would be very similar, just much louder without the resonator. But our goal was to test a system to see if we could replicate what the GM Borla system delivers only at a much lower price point.

 

What is the difference in the 12229 and the 14229?

Posted

 

What is the difference in the 12229 and the 14229?

Nothing except one is satin finish and the other is polished. 12229-satin 14229-polished

Posted

spintech muffler

 

I have spintech mufflers on my Camaro... love them! Havent seen/heard them much on the Sierra though.

Posted

Nothing except one is satin finish and the other is polished. 12229-satin 14229-polished

 

Ok... one last question for now.

 

So the 12229 is a 3" muffler... do they have 3.5" version of this? Doesnt the 6.2L have 3.5" piping, so a 3" would work but 3.5" would be best?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is. 
    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...