Jump to content

Spider Headlights?

Badnewcastle

By Badnewcastle
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
blownZ71 Enthusiast

blownZ71

Posted
Posted

I didn't pay retail so I'm uncertain how much they actually sell for. However, you do want to make sure that you get the right one.

 

5080523 is for the non-LED version Sierra (SLE, and base)

5080851 is for the LED version Sierra (Denali, SLT, and all terrain)

 

Just pick which number is for your truck and put it into google for pricing. Whatever the lowest price you find, copy the link and send it to AutoAnything on live chat; they'll beat the lowest advertised price every time. I do not work for them or any auto part retailer, just sharing my experience.

 

Josh

Auto anything does not have those part numbers matching, do you know which one of their part numbers you ordered? And if your truck is SLE or SLT?

 

PRO-YD-GS14V2-LBDRL-BK

 

  • PRO-YD-GS14-LBDRL-BK
  • 3 weeks later...
20feetup Enthusiast

20feetup

Posted
Posted

I put these in my 14 All Terrain SLT with DLR today. Need to aim them properly but I thought they were better than factory. I got them new on eBay for 333 with free shipping, much better than the $1,000 the dealer wanted to replace my busted passenger headlight. There was no brand name listed on eBay but as I was inspecting them on arrival they are stamped spyder on the light housing. I might upgrade the lights down the road but for the first day they were fine.

post-156795-0-93491300-1462074825_thumb.jpg

post-156795-0-93491300-1462074825_thumb.jpg

post-156795-0-93491300-1462074825_thumb.jpg

post-156795-0-93491300-1462074825_thumb.jpg

wsk3 Enthusiast

wsk3

Posted
Posted

I'll get them when the shutters fail on my OEM headlamp assemblies. Its only a matter of time; remember "pop-up" headlights?

blownZ71 Enthusiast

blownZ71

Posted
Posted

I put these in my 14 All Terrain SLT with DLR today. Need to aim them properly but I thought they were better than factory. I got them new on eBay for 333 with free shipping, much better than the $1,000 the dealer wanted to replace my busted passenger headlight. There was no brand name listed on eBay but as I was inspecting them on arrival they are stamped spyder on the light housing. I might upgrade the lights down the road but for the first day they were fine.

Did the packaging indicate either of these two numbers anywhere on it?

PRO-YD-GS14V2-LBDRL-BK

 

or

  • PRO-YD-GS14-LBDRL-BK
20feetup Enthusiast

20feetup

Posted
Posted

 

Did the packaging indicate either of these two numbers anywhere on it?

PRO-YD-GS14V2-LBDRL-BK

 

or

  • PRO-YD-GS14-LBDRL-BK

 

Honestly not sure, they were in a box with custom padding. No real instructions or anything. I'll double check later. Here is where I bought them

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=191824962902&view=all&tid=1257977194009

 

it has some information on them.

  • 5 months later...
blownZ71 Enthusiast

blownZ71

Posted
Posted

I put these in my 14 All Terrain SLT with DLR today. Need to aim them properly but I thought they were better than factory. I got them new on eBay for 333 with free shipping, much better than the $1,000 the dealer wanted to replace my busted passenger headlight. There was no brand name listed on eBay but as I was inspecting them on arrival they are stamped spyder on the light housing. I might upgrade the lights down the road but for the first day they were fine.

How did you accomplish aiming them? I just put on a set and they are way out of whack. Please help.

 

Thanks

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

i have these as well as matching taillights. they are great qualitY.

 

I run the SLT version in my SLE. as there are 2 one for factory led drl and one without. The base version the LED only light up with running lights. The V2 the bottom led is drl and top comes on with running lights. You can use the gen5diy harness to get the V2 working w/o factory leds. check my build for more info.

 

I swapped the projector and low beam to an LED bulbs and the output is fantastic.

 

you can aim them with a philips screwdriver there is a silver 'dial'.

blownZ71 Enthusiast

blownZ71

Posted
Posted

Did you change out the projector housing? Or did you just sway out the H1 bulb for the low beam in the projector housing?

 

If so what projector and what was involved in that swap? Did it change your bulb spec from H1 to something different?

 

Also, did you get the version of the spyder headlight for trucks that included factory LED DRL's or did this harness work for the spyder version for trucks that did not come with DRL aka the SLE trucks?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

i have these as well as matching taillights. they are great qualitY.

I run the SLT version in my SLE. as there are 2 one for factory led drl and one without. The base version the LED only light up with running lights. The V2 the bottom led is drl and top comes on with running lights. You can use the gen5diy harness to get the V2 working w/o factory leds. check my build for more info.

I swapped the projector and low beam to an LED bulbs and the output is fantastic.

you can aim them with a philips screwdriver there is a silver 'dial'.

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

Did you change out the projector housing? Or did you just sway out the H1 bulb for the low beam in the projector housing?

 

If so what projector and what was involved in that swap? Did it change your bulb spec from H1 to something different?

 

Also, did you get the version of the spyder headlight for trucks that included factory LED DRL's or did this harness work for the spyder version for trucks that did not come with DRL aka the SLE trucks?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

 

Yes the projector was changed. It was done by the company I bought them from and is still an H1.

 

Yes, the headlights are intended for factory LED DRL and has a 7 pin connector. Mine in an SLE and does not have factory led so the factory harness only has 5 Pins. The Gen5DIY harness added the extra 2+ pins (one for bottom led and one for top). The Spyder lights for factory LED DRL will have V2 in the name/part#. The headlights now function like a stock SLT bottom for DRL and top comes on with running lights.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...