Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Idk if this topic is dead but I have a different startup noise from the videos.. 2015 5.3L Sierra 1500. I’m in CA so it never really gets that cold, my noise is like a high pitched whine that follows the sound of the ignition at startup. Best way I can describe it is like one of those whistles my kid has with a little rotor in it... higher pitched the louder you blow. Took it to the dealer and they heard it but had no idea. They replaced my starter thinking it had something to do with that but didn’t fix.. sounds like metal on metal to me. Some tech was saying sounds like something rubbing the flywheel but it goes away after it’s at operating temp, sometimes never hear it at all, sometimes still makes the sound when it’s warm and restarting. Had it in 4 times now and nobody can figure it out. 

Posted
20 hours ago, CAKen said:

Idk if this topic is dead but I have a different startup noise from the videos.. 2015 5.3L Sierra 1500. I’m in CA so it never really gets that cold, my noise is like a high pitched whine that follows the sound of the ignition at startup. Best way I can describe it is like one of those whistles my kid has with a little rotor in it... higher pitched the louder you blow. Took it to the dealer and they heard it but had no idea. They replaced my starter thinking it had something to do with that but didn’t fix.. sounds like metal on metal to me. Some tech was saying sounds like something rubbing the flywheel but it goes away after it’s at operating temp, sometimes never hear it at all, sometimes still makes the sound when it’s warm and restarting. Had it in 4 times now and nobody can figure it out. 

I live in Southern CA and have a 2017 6.2L. I hear some of these sounds on cold starts and have learned that many of them are normal. Sometimes I'll hear something that seems off to me, but I don't have the time to go chasing every single noise I hear on this truck. I definitely have never heard anything like that loud, rhythmic ticking noise on the second video posted in this thread though.

 

On 2/7/2016 at 4:13 AM, tnchevy said:

Makes you wonder why they did all of these changes to improve fuel economy when in reality for some of us the mpg's are the same or only slightly better than previous trucks. After 10k miles and 1.5 years my truck is at 19mpg (hand calculated, running average). My 2002 model with 4.10 gears, heavy LT tires, and no front end that drags the ground got 17.5 mpg after 120k miles and 12 years. Add on heavy tires and take off the air dam and level my 2014 may possibly get worse mpg than my 2002. So much for advancements in technology for mpg.

Way old post to be quoting, but it got me laughing when I thought about this:

With all of the technology to improve gas mileage, they have actually used more oil/fuel in having TONS of customers taking their trucks to the dealership to have this noise looked at, or this lifter repaired, etc.

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 2/11/2016 at 6:17 AM, GsBowtie said:

The sound I'm referring to is NOT a fuel pump. That sound is very ovbious after the guy first turns the key on. The rattle / rrrrp/ rasp or whatever you want to call it happens just after the engine fires.

 

My truck does that pretty much year round on the first start of the day or when I'm leaving work at night. I hope no long term engine damage is being done for those first few seconds there is no oil pressure. It sure sounds like VTC rattle to me, but I've never had one of these new engines apart yet. Sounds like metal on metal to me, but hopefully I'm wrong.

I know this is an old thread, Listened to your video 5x. I have a 2017 Suburban 8000 miles. But just to let you know I have the exact same sound!!! (split second rattle, at cold start)  almost sounds like oil is finding its way to lubricate, Thought maybe since I don't drive it much only for towing that It sat too long and oil drain down Created this problem- hope Im wrong. And I was going to record it And bring itTo the Dealer but I figured it would be a waste of time.So glad I found this thread. Finding out at least 1/2 the people that replied have the same sound. Just wondered, GS bowtie if you ever Had  Decent response from the dealer And what your latest deduction is of the sound, Also if you still have The sound.

  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 2/7/2016 at 8:06 AM, entreri said:

oil pump I have a 2015 5.3 same deal.

Sounds like lifters. Had my 2015 to the dealer in late 2018 for this noise. They replaced ALL the lifters. Or so they say. Was done under warranty. 1 month later, noise came back & is still audible to this day. (2/04/2020)

Posted
On 2/4/2020 at 4:58 PM, ROB MCDONALD said:

Sounds like lifters. Had my 2015 to the dealer in late 2018 for this noise. They replaced ALL the lifters. Or so they say. Was done under warranty. 1 month later, noise came back & is still audible to this day. (2/04/2020)

While I believe your lifters went bad a got replaced, the noise we hear in the video the OP posted is not the lifters. Idk what the noise is exactly but my truck has done it since new and continues to do it till this day 11/16 w/2 miles - current time with 137k. 
 

but this thread is soooooooo old! 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

There is also talk of an update O-ring on the oil pick up tube flange on 5.3 l   .  The original can take in air and usually you will see a drop in oil pressure.   you need to drop the front on the oil pan to replace the updated O-ring.

  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...