15 Silverado radio staying on

EJones · February 23, 2016

Got my 15 Silverado with the my link system that is staying on after the ignition is off, keys removed and the door has been opened. Got it to time out after about 15 min but the power stayed on with just a black lot screen. The dome lights and instrument cluster turns off so I don't think it's the latch and/or switch. I've had a lot of problems for this truck to only have 4300 miles. Any help is appreciated. Not feeling like I have made the best purchase with this truck.

cmitchell86 · February 23, 2016

Got my 15 Silverado with the my link system that is staying on after the ignition is off, keys removed and the door has been opened. Got it to time out after about 15 min but the power stayed on with just a black lot screen. The dome lights and instrument cluster turns off so I don't think it's the latch and/or switch. I've had a lot of problems for this truck to only have 4300 miles. Any help is appreciated. Not feeling like I have made the best purchase with this truck.

What do was opened/closed the driver door or one of the other ones? I know on my 14 the only way end the aux radio power is by the drivers door opening... hopefully that helps.

BigBadSierra · February 23, 2016

First step is disconnect the battery for 15 minutes then see if it stops. Mines got stuck on once and this fixed it. This has never happened again.

The next thing is to look at the door switch and see if it is having an issue. IE open the door and no dome lights.

Edited February 23, 2016 by BigBadSierra

B2E2RUN · February 23, 2016

My 2014 Sierra has done this a few times, but never for that long, maybe 2-3 mins max. I never concerned myself with it.

Sean Demura · February 23, 2016

This has happened to me before. It's always been solved by turning the truck back on and then off again.

FWIW, this happens on my wife's Equinox too. My cousin's a GM mechanic and said that they have a software fix for the Equinoxes. Perhaps one will show up for the Silverado soon enough.

EJones · February 23, 2016

Thanks guys. I tried all of the above short of pulling the battery. I could open any door in the truck and it would stay on. Done lights came on when the door opens and dim like normal. It finally went off after about 35 minutes.

Truck is at the dealer currently getting services and another round of having the exhaust valve popping issue looked at. Just told them to add this to the list. We'll see what happens.

Edited February 23, 2016 by EJones

2doorpost · March 1, 2016

My '14 Camaro did that.

Turned the car off and restarted it. Fixed.

Same thing with drivers power window. Wouldn't move. Shut the car off and restart and it was fine. Weird stuff.

richjol · March 21, 2019

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

ic3man5 · March 24, 2019

On 3/21/2019 at 10:16 AM, richjol said:

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

It is a software bug, basically don't get out from the passenger side and don't leave it on extended times with the engine off and then get out of the vehicle. I've had it happen a few times.

I can only assume one of the modules goes to sleep after that long and doesn't send the signal to the radio to turn off.

richjol · March 25, 2019

Thanks for the info.

I tried to duplicate what you said. I turned the ignition on and measured the current at over 2.5 amps. I turned off the ignition and opened the driver's door. The radio did turn off but would turn back on if I pressed the radio on/off button. But, if I pushed the radio on/off button it did turn off and, after a while the current did drop down to 50 millamps or less. I left the radio fuse in place and the battery still had 12.53v this morning. I did as you said, and did not open the passenger door.

So, it seems the answer is as you said, but I am not sure if I can trust this problem not to repeat. I will have to hope I do not go out to a dead battery again.

Did you find any way to permanently correct this problem?

Ravenkeeper · March 26, 2019

Mine (for my '15) was in the radio's power switch, may have been the software/firmware on the radio, never had it updated before it got totaled.

Did you know that the power switch can be pressed/released to turn the radio on (for 10 minutes) without having the key in the ACC or RUN positions?

ic3man5 · March 26, 2019

On 3/25/2019 at 3:53 PM, richjol said:

Thanks for the info.

I tried to duplicate what you said. I turned the ignition on and measured the current at over 2.5 amps. I turned off the ignition and opened the driver's door. The radio did turn off but would turn back on if I pressed the radio on/off button. But, if I pushed the radio on/off button it did turn off and, after a while the current did drop down to 50 millamps or less. I left the radio fuse in place and the battery still had 12.53v this morning. I did as you said, and did not open the passenger door.

So, it seems the answer is as you said, but I am not sure if I can trust this problem not to repeat. I will have to hope I do not go out to a dead battery again.

Did you find any way to permanently correct this problem?

From a programmer's perspective ECUs can be woken up from certain events. There was a design decision either at the hardware level or software level that the passenger doors didn't need this event/interrupt. I kind of doubt its a hardware limitation of the ECU which is why I blamed software, and even if it was hardware limited it could be fixed in software by waking up periodically until the radio is actually shut off. GM never accounted that the driver door wouldn't be used (aka start the vehicle and listen to music from passenger side).

Of course this is all a guess because I don't actually have access to the code in the ECU.

richjol · June 18, 2019

I have been trying to close the driver's door last and no problem so far.

Thanks for the help.

Rich

Payton34 · August 25, 2020

I have this same issue and took mine to the dealer today. They diagnosed it as my negative battery cable harness being bad and needs to be replaced. It is drawing too many mili amps but they said they don’t see any corrosion visible. Also Battery cable harness isn’t covered under the extended platinum GM warranty. They want to charge 3 hrs labor plus the cable total of about $800!
Does this sound like an accurate diagnosis and I am pretty sure I could change the cable myself. Has anyone else replaced their battery cables?