Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I only have the issue at one station. The fix there was to hold the handle sideways with the hose pointing towards the rear tire. Frustrating until I figured out this trick.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I fixed mine today check your vent hose that runs from the filler neck to the tank and see if it has a kink in it. If it does that's the problem, I cut 2" off of the hose and straightened it and reinstalled and that fixed it I put 24 gallons of fuel in about 2-3 min. Fixed!!

 

RT

Posted

I got my truck back from the dealer for this issues and the paperwork/ the service writer stated that their was a debris stuck inside the hose I guess causing the issue. I don't believe that but as long as the tech fixed the issue is all I care. Pumped gas and no issues yet.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I got my truck back from the dealer for this issues and the paperwork/ the service writer stated that their was a debris stuck inside the hose I guess causing the issue. I don't believe that but as long as the tech fixed the issue is all I care. Pumped gas and no issues yet.

 

Keep us posted. Post an update in about a month or so.

Posted

It has improved but it still happens but not a lot before the tech did what they did. I went back for the driver seat moving around, they shimmed it or something and also complained about the gas tank issue. My service writer stated they are going to replace the gas tank so it's on order right now. They will call me when the part comes in and replaced the gas tank from what he explained to me.

 

 

Keep us posted. Post an update in about a month or so.

  • Like 1
Posted

Check the vent hose for a kink in it...It won't take much to disrupt the air flow to vent the tank properly. Not sure why the dealers are relpacing the fuel tank.

 

RT

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes make sure to check the hose changing the tank won't fix the problem or atleast it didn't with mine. Theye "removed the tank and blew all the vent hoses out. Problem solved.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Dropped of my truck today, I check with the service writer and he stated yes they are replacing the gas tank. I wish I knew more details what's wrong with the gas tank but the tech is installing a new gas tank for sure. Coming from the service writer.

Posted

With mine, if I put the nozzle all the way in, it would shutoff every $1.50-$2.00, on most pumps. I have been dealing with it, just have to remember to put it all the way in and pull it back out about 1/2".

Posted

I know if I hit a freak gas station with real good pump pressure these trucks do not like it.

 

I have to slow it down a bit.

 

I did have one issue with my 2014 once it kept shutting off so I assumed it was full and when I got back in it was at half.

 

Went to a different station and it filled right up. I just assumed the pump I was at had an issue and was kicking off to easy.

 

It only ever happened the one time. I was back at the same station using the same pump with no issues but I have no idea they may have fixed the pump.

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Not sure if I updated but my dealership replaced my fuel tank last tear and fixed all my issues. No more pump trigger going off now 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...