Jump to content

2016 SLT lights in 14/15 SLT/All Terrain almost done

zmnypit
 Share

Recommended Posts

Arth Enthusiast

Arth

Posted
Posted

Yeah like I thought. You need resistors in the rear.

 

IMG_20170219_224517045_zpsfcxlu9hm.jpg

 

If you have resistors for the front led, it shouldn't be the problem for the rear signals. It's the low consumption of driving/braking LED tail lights that may trigger the light out on the dash.

 

 

That was my belief and assumption, but thought he may test it.

  • Replies 910
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

zmnypit
zmnypit

Sorry I'm a little late, I've been in the Caribbean for a little over a week and just getting around to posting pictures. I know there was a lot of fuss of whether or not the SLT lights would so I bit

WSFD6107
WSFD6107

Well, I finally got around to installing my 16-17 LED headlights. A huge thanks goes out to @zmnypit for fabricating the adapter harnesses. 

zmnypit
zmnypit

One more night pic that should help.  

Posted Images

Deity.Motorsports Enthusiast

Deity.Motorsports

Posted
Posted

Yeah like I thought. You need resistors in the rear.

 

IMG_20170219_224517045_zpsfcxlu9hm.jpg

 

 

 

 

Wow much more advance than other vehicles. I guess I'll wait for your your harness too.

 

Headlights in tomorrow and can't wait for tails

Arth Enthusiast

Arth

Posted
Posted

You can.

 

You are looking at a 2015 Denali Cluster in my 2015 SLT.

 

There is a thread all about it. If you want the details PM me so we don't run off track in this thread.

 

Now if only someone could figure out how to get that dash in a 2014 SLT LOL

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Deity.Motorsports Enthusiast

Deity.Motorsports

Posted
Posted

You can.

 

You are looking at a 2015 Denali Cluster in my 2015 SLT.

 

There is a thread all about it. If you want the details PM me so we don't run off track in this thread.

 

Got me looking on cost for a Denali Cluster now... I don't need another mod ?
zmnypit Enthusiast

zmnypit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry guys. It was pretty here all weekend so we went fishing. I have not tested but I see arth did (big thanks for that) and resistors are needed. I will get the harnesses made up this week and start getting them out to you guys!!

KyleGT Enthusiast

KyleGT

Posted
Posted

Installed my LED headlamps with zmnypit's harnesses tonight after work.

For anyone about to install theirs, it's pretty straightforward. Here's a quick "how-to guide" since I didn't see one posted yet.

 

You need to remove the bumper top pad, then the grille, and then you have full access to the headlamps. There's a 7mm screw on each side from the wheel well through the fender trim/flare and bumper top pad. Pull out on the flare to get it out of the way so you can remove the top pad. There's a T15 torx screw a little further back on the flare you can remove to allow more movement of the flare as well. There is then a 7mm screw going straight up through the bumper top pad into the fender. Once you have those out, you should be able to pull out on the top pad to release it from the retainer holding it up to the fender. Once you get that released, the top pad is clipped into the bottom of the grille. You should be able to pull it forward and the clips should release, or you may need to gently pop it loose with a small flat head screwdriver at each attachment point. There is 4 10mm bolts along the bottom of the grille, and 4 along the top. You'll need to remove the upper cover off the top of the grille first. After that, it's just 4 10mm bolts that hold each headlamp in place. I attached the resistors on the new harnesses to the side of the radiator support with small screws.

I wish I would have taken some pictures along the way, but hopefully this made sense.

 

Before:

 

A55C3E0C-42C1-4C52-99E9-B5A3014A023C_zps

 

During swap - one old one new

 

5D192CF6-23FD-4518-B810-9F7E9C48BD01_zps

 

Picture doesn't show the difference between the old and new very well, new is bright white and old seems very yellow

 

AFF6CA4F-5FFC-4662-A2B4-1B1DBDBD7E74_zps

 

Done!

 

A93DD4AB-AD40-4C5F-9FBD-A79311137AF4_zps

 

Definitely need to get LED fogs. Stock ones look very out of place (again, photo doesn't show that very well)

 

B973FA20-DEAF-4277-9B36-A2BE39765896_zps

 

Signals/flashers on:

 

33993D23-747E-4AD1-AB9C-D31264A8C70F_zps

 

I did before and after pictures of the light on my garage doors, but the difference doesn't show up very well. I can tell you however, that these headlights are bright as hell!

I also got quick video of the flashers on. I'll have to upload that to YouTube or something and post a link to that if anyone wanted to see that.

  • Like 2
Horacio Enthusiast

Horacio

Posted
Posted

Nice job guys and many thanks to Vann for opening the so-called flood gates for making the conversion super easy.

  • Like 2
Deity.Motorsports Enthusiast

Deity.Motorsports

Posted
Posted

Awesome to finally see the chrome version installed! Can't wait to get mine installed once the harness gets here

No regret what so ever! In person, think I like them more than black housing when lights are on!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401276738381

Raised to 1250 OBO now. 3 sets. I'm sure he will take 900 again

 

They look to be out of box brand new. Mounting taps have no sign of ever been mounted. Back of the housing is just too clean to come off a used Sierra.

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

heatsink

After a little more research, this is actually the LED controller GM has it labeled as the K166L and K166R LED controller if you remove it you will see a 20 pin connector. The case functions as a heat sink as well but the brains are inside of there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • Silver Yeti
      Poll: Does your truck have the rear window leak?

      By Silver Yeti · Posted

      That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...