2016 SLT lights in 14/15 SLT/All Terrain almost done

[Austin01WS6]

Thanks for the info^.

[zmnypit]

Thx! Anyone installing these with the resisters should know that the resisters get pretty hot. Hot enough to burn you and melt plastic so make sure you attach it somewhere on metal and away from anything that could melt...

 

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One thing to note is they only produce heat when the turn signal or flashers are on. But yes don't mount them to plastic. Use BringTheRain's location of the radiator core support next to the head light.

 

So how was the night time drive?

Edited February 7, 2017 by zmnypit

[BringTheRain403]

Much better. I noticed the beam is a lot wider and reached further out than my original lights with HID's in them. I also didn't notice shadows in the beam like my other lights...

 

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[Skeeter McSkeet]

After a closer inspection, I feel like my cutoff line isn't quite as "crisp" or "straight" as some of the pictures I've seen. I'll take some pictures if my phone will show it tonight. The line seems somewhat jagged. I realize here are steps in the lines and it won't be a straight line from side to side. In between the steps it seems like there's some light scatter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and trying to find a reason I got the used set for cheap still, maybe not. Overall performance seems excellent, no complaints there.

 

 

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[BringTheRain403]

Yea I agree my cutoff line isn't as crisp as I was expecting but it's still far better than the old lights.

 

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[zmnypit]

After a closer inspection, I feel like my cutoff line isn't quite as "crisp" or "straight" as some of the pictures I've seen. I'll take some pictures if my phone will show it tonight. The line seems somewhat jagged. I realize here are steps in the lines and it won't be a straight line from side to side. In between the steps it seems like there's some light scatter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and trying to find a reason I got the used set for cheap still, maybe not. Overall performance seems excellent, no complaints there.

 

 

Sent from my kayak

Did you adjust them where both sides line up with each other? If done correctly you will have one low line and one high line. If not adjusted then you're going to see 4 lines.

 

Yea I agree my cutoff line isn't as crisp as I was expecting but it's still far better than the old lights.

 

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Same here. Did you adjust? For OEM lights these have some of the better lines I've seen. Granted this is the first set of LED headlights I've messed with. We used to have an Audi before my wife's Yukon and it had the cleanest lines. It was HID though.

Edited February 7, 2017 by zmnypit

[Skeeter McSkeet]

Did you adjust them where both sides line up with each other? If done correctly you will have one low line and one high line. If not adjusted then you're going to see 4 lines.

 

 

 

I haven't adjusted any yet, I'll need to go down a touch for the level I have on I'd say. Is it the top screw toward the middle you use to adjust the height? I remember reading about adjusting them a year or two ago but I can't remember.

 

 

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[BringTheRain403]

Yea I adjusted mine so the cutoff lines are level as at the same height as my old ones. The cutoff lines aren't bad but certainly not on the level of a FRX projector with HID's

 

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[Skeeter McSkeet]

Went to adjust and looked through the top hole, I'm not seeing the white adjustment screw where the 2015 was, where is it on the 2016 lights?

 

 

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Edited February 8, 2017 by SkeeterMcSkeet

[BringTheRain403]

It's back further should be just behind the metal support

 

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[kj3475]

You should ALWAYS level your lights anytime you change them out.

 

For you guys trying to level... Pull right up close (6" or as close as you can get) to a flat wall on a level surface... mark your cutoff w/ some tape or marker.. usea tape measure from ground up to make sure your cutoff is at the exact same height as your projector... ... Use your tape measure and back up exactly 25'. Your cutoff should be a few inches lower (2-4" or so I forget) than the marks you made previous, if not adjust as needed.

 

What it all boils down to is that your cutoff should never be any higher than the height of an average cars sideview mirrors... whatever the heck that is. Above method gets ya real close.

 

It's been a while but correct me if I'm wrong that the driver side will always be a touch lower than passenger due to projector housing?

Edited February 8, 2017 by kj3475

[Lgetz]

Was interested in doing this mod but after pricing with my source at local dealer forget it. $1,800 plus tax too steep in my book for headlight upgrade. I know could look for used sets on eBay but don't want to take a chance with scratched lenses and broke tabs.

[zmnypit]

Was interested in doing this mod but after pricing with my source at local dealer forget it. $1,800 plus tax too steep in my book for headlight upgrade. I know could look for used sets on eBay but don't want to take a chance with scratched lenses and broke tabs.

That's why the majority aren't buying new. Its not really a chance when the sellers have it described or pics shown. One of mine did have some scuffs on the lens but I wet sanded and buffed it and like new again. Of course they were no where near $1800 tho.

[kj3475]

Yup, 1500grit should get any imperfections.. compound, and you've got brand new looking lenses. I bit mine w/ compound every few months to stay crystal clear.

 

Broken tabs aren't the worst thing in the world either. Alot of sellers will have the piece of tab that you can plastic weld back one and function correctly.

 

Theres a few sets out there now that are steals...

[zmnypit]

Few more harness made tonight and dropping off at the post office in the morning. I have 2 sets left for anyone that's interested that I haven't PM'd or texted.