Jump to content

possible alternative to OPT7 LED's?


Recommended Posts

Posted

20ptriw.jpg

 

When they were in and on they looked great for sure

Now the issue is to keep them on

Going to be calling TRS on Monday. I want to make these work

  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I thought we were looking at a plug and play bulb change, not a projector / headlight change

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Posted

youre not looking at a projector/headlight change

This thread is only about the morimoto led bulbs and unfortunately them working very intermittently

Posted

I thought we were looking at a plug and play bulb change, not a projector / headlight change

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

He has the LTZ lights already. They are halogen projectors. Just swapped to the LED bulbs.

Posted

youre not looking at a projector/headlight change

This thread is only about the morimoto led bulbs and unfortunately them working very intermittently

 

 

What normally functions as your DRL? The highbeam would normally in such a dual lamp setup but that does not mean it does on these silverados. Mine however is a Sierra so the lighting functionality is much different.

 

I installed Phillips LumiLED they work great. But my DRL is a LED strip. Everything works in Auto mode as it should. I would not trust Cree personally but this is based on my conversations with others as I have never used one. I have been told they are Chinese garbage or were a couple years ago, then again Kia used to be and look how far they came. The only other company I found making high end LED headlamps beside Phillips was a german company called WeissLicht and they ONLY make lights for BMW.

 

Stupid question: I do not suppose they could be installed upside down or backwards? is the connections one way only dummy proof? Because it sound like the lights are on when they should not be and off when they should be on like the 'switch' is wired backwards. They are suppose to come on when you put it in drive so they are functioning exactly opposite.

Posted

You most likely need a capacitor link to clean up the signal going to the LED drivers. Usually LED's require clean power.. and the power coming from your truck is being controlled by the computer. More than likely they are changing the pulse width and it's effecting these LED's.

 

This is common practice on a lot of HID setups so it's nothing new.

Posted

Night time picks would be great too, haha

yeah. once theyre working...

You most likely need a capacitor link to clean up the signal going to the LED drivers. Usually LED's require clean power.. and the power coming from your truck is being controlled by the computer. More than likely they are changing the pulse width and it's effecting these LED's.

 

This is common practice on a lot of HID setups so it's nothing new.

buying capacitors shortly. spoke to TRS and they recommended them as well

Posted

Is there a thread that has LED comparisions? I am about to order some ANZO headlights and they require H7 bulbs. I want to buy LEDs instead of HIDs as they are more reliable. These 2stroke ones seem pretty nice, but I am not sure how they would work with the ANZO headlights.

Posted

Also, how was the fitment? I know these come with extended dust caps. Do they fit the truck? and how does it fit between headlight and airbox assuming you dont have CAI

Posted

capacitors bought. this is turning into an ordeal now lol

Odd I did not have to add any capacitors it was my understanding is that is what te driver is intended for to smooth the electricity flow / current / amperage.

 

I did use a wiring harness that supplies a fresh 12v to my drl strips but the headlamp should be unchanged.

 

Note I did not have the BCM changed in mine to increase voltage but neither did a Chevy to my knowledge.

 

Please report back when installed.

Posted

Also, how was the fitment? I know these come with extended dust caps. Do they fit the truck? and how does it fit between headlight and airbox assuming you dont have CAI

Ton of room there. Mine fit all inside the housing no extended dust cap needed I doubt would on the Anzo either it's a pretty big housing.

Posted

Ton of room there. Mine fit all inside the housing no extended dust cap needed I doubt would on the Anzo either it's a pretty big housing.

Thanks, I just bought the Anzo's from a dealer on eBay who sells returned items. Total with shipping was $425. Not bad for $600 headlights. I currently have Xenon Depot LEDs in my stock headlights but I am not blown away by the light output (2500lm per bulb) so i am looking to step up to either Opt 7 or these 2stroke

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...