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2016 Silverado 2500HD Steering woes

QueenGlamis
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Needatruck Enthusiast

Needatruck

Posted
Posted

I think it really speaks volumes that GM has not come into this thread and tried to ease people's concerns and say that they have a good handle on the proper fix. I see them jump into other threads....I personally have not pulled the trigger on a 2016 Denali Duramax because of this issue. I do agree with other contributors that GM must be trying to avoid a massive recall and put the resources together to actually address this issue until there is an unfortunate accident. I for one and not going to buy this truck and allow my wife and baby and myself to be the statistic that actually forces them to address this properly. It's really sad and the more I read these post the easier it is for me to leave my checkbook at home and avoid a possible accident or at the least avoiding repeated trips to the service department. Also avoid the explaining that will go along with it to my wife about why the 67k truck that I've been praising for its reliability can't stay out of shop and is unsafe to drive my family in. Dropping the ball on this one GM.

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2016 2500hd Sierra Denali
2016 2500hd Sierra Denali

Installed Red Head steering gear yesterday, only driven about 30 miles but the play in the steering wheel is gone! It now drives as a vehicle should.   Previously I could rotate the steering wheel 1

sdeeter19555
sdeeter19555

And responses like yours are a canned GM response...you might as well have said "it's your fault you bought a lemon", because you are making this out to be the owner's fault.   Sent from my SM-T350

DEMAX3254
DEMAX3254

My 2016 with 8000 miles had the steering box replaced with new pit-man arm with alignment. I do have a great dealership to work with thankfully stated this should do the trick. Just got back from a

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2016 2500hd Sierra Denali Enthusiast

2016 2500hd Sierra Denali

Posted
Posted

It's been a couple of weeks since I've been on this thread.

 

Truck has spent most of it's time at dealership. New Pitman arm TSB "D", better but still not right, truck had a readylift kit, keys, UCA's and shims, I've removed all of that and now it's stock and still on level hwy drives like a boat.

 

I put a little starboard input in wait for the helm to answer and then put a little port in and wait...last weekend drove about 300 miles all hwy what a PITA!

 

So, went back to dealership drove a 17...OMG night and day difference, drives straight no wandering on hwy....I'm going to shoot for a new steering box, if that doesn't fix it I'm gonna get rid of it and buy a FORD!

 

I've tried driving with Stabilitrak off, tow mode on (better) but loose steering still present. Input on steering wheel is not uniform, very loose at 12 position, but stiff if I move to 11:30 or 12:30 position. Let go of wheel on rough road steering wheel rotates back and forth on it's own. Tap the brakes, steering wheel moves?

 

When they removed the original pitman arm the tooth at the 12 position was worn in half, they changed the fluid in the steering box, but my thought is where did all the metal fragments go from the pitman arm...I'm thinking that whole hydraulic system is contaminated making inputs on the wheel inconsistent...I'll keep you posted!

  • Like 1
Big ~O~ Enthusiast

Big ~O~

Posted
Posted

I drove a '17 over the weekend as well just to compare while mine was in the shop for the third time. The steering felt much better!! Did you find the turbo whine was much more noticeable on the '17?

 

 

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2016 2500hd Sierra Denali Enthusiast

2016 2500hd Sierra Denali

Posted
Posted

Engine response was much better, seemed a little louder than the 16, honestly I didn't pay that much attention to the engine or sounds, was concentrating on the difference in steering and much smoother ride...17 has some sort of magnetic ride compensation which if it's anything like the DSA will quit at 5K...LOL

 

It's interesting we haven't heard from the GM tech support lurkers on this thread, they know they've got a problem and the fix is expensive so what do we hear....CRICKETS...

  • Like 1
ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

It's been a couple of weeks since I've been on this thread.

 

Truck has spent most of it's time at dealership. New Pitman arm TSB "D", better but still not right, truck had a readylift kit, keys, UCA's and shims, I've removed all of that and now it's stock and still on level hwy drives like a boat.

 

I put a little starboard input in wait for the helm to answer and then put a little port in and wait...last weekend drove about 300 miles all hwy what a PITA!

 

So, went back to dealership drove a 17...OMG night and day difference, drives straight no wandering on hwy....I'm going to shoot for a new steering box, if that doesn't fix it I'm gonna get rid of it and buy a FORD!

 

I've tried driving with Stabilitrak off, tow mode on (better) but loose steering still present. Input on steering wheel is not uniform, very loose at 12 position, but stiff if I move to 11:30 or 12:30 position. Let go of wheel on rough road steering wheel rotates back and forth on it's own. Tap the brakes, steering wheel moves?

 

When they removed the original pitman arm the tooth at the 12 position was worn in half, they changed the fluid in the steering box, but my thought is where did all the metal fragments go from the pitman arm...I'm thinking that whole hydraulic system is contaminated making inputs on the wheel inconsistent...I'll keep you posted!

It's impossible for metal from a worn pitman arm/shaft to get into the steering hydraulic system.

 

Most of the "tech support" left this forum because they're sick of being asked for help then told they're wrong.

gmcslt Enthusiast

gmcslt

Posted
Posted

It's impossible for metal from a worn pitman arm/shaft to get into the steering hydraulic system.

 

Most of the "tech support" left this forum because they're sick of being asked for help then told they're wrong.

 

The support I got was that GM customer service would reach out to the dealer to arrange for them to call me and get this thing fixed......Never got a call from the dealer and my truck still drives like S***. So there is the example of support that GM has for their customers.

Needatruck Enthusiast

Needatruck

Posted
Posted

It's impossible for metal from a worn pitman arm/shaft to get into the steering hydraulic system.

 

Most of the "tech support" left this forum because they're sick of being asked for help then told they're wrong.

Do these post sound like the"tech support" has a good grasp on this issue?? I'm assuming you think this is normal for these trucks to drive like this.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted
Right. But how is metal shavings going to get inside a sealed box from outside without a failed seal which would leak fluid and wash the shavings away before they could get in the box?

 

 

The support I got was that GM customer service would reach out to the dealer to arrange for them to call me and get this thing fixed......Never got a call from the dealer and my truck still drives like S***. So there is the example of support that GM has for their customers.

GM Customer Service, isn't "tech support" they are a call center that can contact the dealer and request the dealer to extend help to you, that's about it, in the context of this forum.

 

Do these post sound like the"tech support" has a good grasp on this issue?? I'm assuming you think this is normal for these trucks to drive like this.

Again, this post is the exact reason WHY there is a lack of "tech support" here. Nothing of this forum has ever guaranteed GM official tech support at all so??
revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted

When they removed the original pitman arm the tooth at the 12 position was worn in half, they changed the fluid in the steering box, but my thought is where did all the metal fragments go from the pitman arm...I'm thinking that whole hydraulic system is contaminated making inputs on the wheel inconsistent...I'll keep you posted!

 

 

 

 

To clear up some confusion as to part nomenclature:

 

Pitman shaft:

http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/851769[1].jpg

 

Pitman arm:

http://www.autopartsdb.net/assets/images/ProductImg/1/18769.JPG

 

 

 

 

It's impossible for metal from a worn pitman arm/shaft to get into the steering hydraulic system.

 

 

 

 

Right. But how is metal shavings going to get inside a sealed box from outside without a failed seal which would leak fluid and wash the shavings away before they could get in the box?

 

 

Would it be possible that the person in the first quote meant the tooth on the pitman shaft. Then those metal flakes would be inside the box, wouldn't they? That is why I posted the pics of the 2 parts.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would it be possible that the person in the first quote meant the tooth on the pitman shaft. Then those metal flakes would be inside the box, wouldn't they? That is why I posted the pics of the 2 parts.

 

The pitman arm to shaft splines are external. I seriously doubt any dealer pulled the gear apart to be able to see if the any internal shaft teeth were chipped because GM doesn't pay for complete disassembly, inspection, repair or reassembly of steering gears anymore.

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted (edited)

So just 1 tooth/spline on the pitman arm wears out?

 

I'm pretty sure if 2 parts that are connected w/ a spline come loose, more than 1 spline would be worn out.

 

I'm hoping "2016" sees his post has been quoted & replies to clear up which part was worn.

Edited by revrnd
2016 2500hd Sierra Denali Enthusiast

2016 2500hd Sierra Denali

Posted
Posted

The pitman shaft was worn.

 

The picture they showed me it appeared that the arm and shaft were all one piece. The shaft goes INTO the steering box, as they changed the fluid and replaced a seal.

 

 

Truck goes in this morning, we'll see and I'll let you know.

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