Best H11 Bulb?

[WilliamBos]

Looking to find out what the best H11 bulb that is NOT LED or HID?

 

Osram night breaker?

[white1500]

Best in terms of what characteristics?

 

Those night breakers are supposed to be 3900k and have served me well, although for less yellow hue I would suggest the cool blue intense which are 4200k.

 

I'm also looking for some H11's but for my mothers in law's 2016 Nissan rogue.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk

[montyss]

I used Silverstars a couple times but barely get 1 year out of them . Next change went to the Silverstar Ultra and got a little more life but not much

I'm looking also for something that may last longer with more light output than the stock bulbs

[newdude]

GM switched from Phillips to Vosla (however its spelt) for their H11 replacement bulbs. That company is the same one that did the GMC upgrade bulbs. The DRL function is what kills a lot of those low beams. If you are looking for something to stand up to that, I'd say the OE bulbs 13586977. A lot of those brighter bulbs on the market, from my experience and from others I know don't last the time the OE bulbs, or the regular rated bulbs do. Sure, the brightness is increased, but the lifespan suffers a bit.

[Chevor]

OEM or Sylvania Xtravision vision, the ones made in Germany. I typically get 80,000 miles out of them.

[WilliamBos]

GM switched from Phillips to Vosla (however its spelt) for their H11 replacement bulbs. That company is the same one that did the GMC upgrade bulbs. The DRL function is what kills a lot of those low beams. If you are looking for something to stand up to that, I'd say the OE bulbs 13586977. A lot of those brighter bulbs on the market, from my experience and from others I know don't last the time the OE bulbs, or the regular rated bulbs do. Sure, the brightness is increased, but the lifespan suffers a bit.

Thank you. SO, I can get these from any dealer?

 

I actually found the OEM bulbs to be just as bright as Silverstars, but the longevity was terrible.

 

 

Also, I am looking at getting the GM Fog light kit, gonna put LED in them. How much labour time will the dealer charge to install them?

[Egghaus]

I had replaced my OEM bulbs with Xtravisions when they burned out, I think I got about 2.5 years out of them. I decided to try Philips CrystalVision Ultras this time, nice white light and rated for longer life than the Xtravisions ans Silverstars. I'm happy with them so far.

[Coby7]

This Australian company in my opinion makes the best H11 if your cars wiring will take the extra current. A couple of years ago I installed these in my wife's G6 that was constantly burning bulbs and she was always complaining that she couldn't see very well at night. She has never complained since. ( Happy wife, happy life ) They're warehoused in Hong Kong and may very well be manufactured there now (don't care ), but for the price I put 2 of these in My truck and love them. Colour temperature on the label says 6000°K but my light meter reads a little over 5300°K power says 100W at 12 volts but my meter says 100 Watts at operating voltage of 14.3 Volts an about 92 at 12 V. So some of the labelling might be for sale purposes and not factual but it turns out I prefer 5300°K to 6000°K which I find too blue anyway. These put out a nice white light.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182211794587?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

For $10 what have I got to lose.

 

Also on some installs the worker at GM forgot to remove the zip-tie on the DRL loop. This zip-tie was to keep the loop together when shipped from the harness manufacturer. If left in the loom the wires would heat up at this spot melt the jacket and short the loop applying full voltage to the low beam filament all the time causing premature bulb (H11) failure because it was at full power all the time. This loop is about 5 meters long and serves as an in-line resistor for DRLs droping the voltage to about 10.5 Volts.

 

You can see that loop in this GM diagram, it runs from A3 to B3 in connector X1

 

[diyer2]

Coby7

Where is the zip tie if it was forgotten?

Is this zip tie in the fuse box?

[Coby7]

Follow the two dark-blue wires leaving the fuse block, and just before it enters the headlight loom you should see a black zip-tie, sometimes it has slipped into the loom a few inches. One way of checking is to measure voltage on the DRL 2 fuse at the return of the loop. It should read close to battery at DRL1 fuse leaving the fuse block and about 10.5 coming back with DRLs on of course.

[carkhz316]

Last winter I switched my stock ones (probably not original, but a plain halogen nonetheless) to Philips Extreme Vision. They had a rebate going which knocked $15 off per pair, so I did highs and lows (no upgraded 5202 bulb for fogs yet, smh). Ignoring the marketing hype of 130% more light output than stock (they're not) they are indeed an appreciable improvement over standard halogens. The color is slightly less yellow as well, so they look nice still, without the gaudy blue light from SS and the like. They are bright enough that I've been flashed a few times, despite my headlights being aimed properly and not being lifted. The lifespan is supposed to be on par with standards too.

GM switched from Phillips to Vosla (however its spelt) for their H11 replacement bulbs. That company is the same one that did the GMC upgrade bulbs. The DRL function is what kills a lot of those low beams. If you are looking for something to stand up to that, I'd say the OE bulbs 13586977. A lot of those brighter bulbs on the market, from my experience and from others I know don't last the time the OE bulbs, or the regular rated bulbs do. Sure, the brightness is increased, but the lifespan suffers a bit.

This is pretty much the tradeoff: brightness or longevity.

[Coby7]

Nope not with these, notice the bulge in the glass, this apparently helps dissipate the heat and helps reduce self destruction. I had bought spares thinking they wouldn't last but so far so good.

 

 

This is a daytime picture -2 ƒstops and they are as white as it gets without falling into the blue spectrum.

 

[Coby7]

Both low and high beams are 100 watts and both read about the same colour temperature between 5320°K and 5380°K even though they are listed as 6000°K Actually the high beams were listed as 5800°K so smaller fib there. Can you tell which is 5320 and which is 5380, I can't tell from the picture and only the colour temperature meter can measure the difference. Driver's side low beam had the highest colour temperature and passenger's side high beam had the lowest colour temperature.