Jump to content

Headers question!

chrislcrews

By chrislcrews
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I finally found a shop to put headers on my truck for me, I'm going to be leaving the cats on there.

 

The guy told me just putting headers on will not throw a code is this true??

 

And what brand is the best to choose here? I'm going to his shop Wednesday to pull the trigger so I need some idea of what to buy here ASAP

 

I'm assuming all I'll get is a little more aggressive sound and small horse power gain?

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

Are you doing shorty headers or long tubes?

 

LTs, you might have a hard time (or at least some pretty high labor costs), fabbing up the OEM Y pipe to mate with the LTs. If you do go this route, your best bet would be a header that has a good connection piece between the LT Headers and Y. So, Kooks, American Racing are your best bets.

 

You actually might be better off just getting the full Kooks LT headers and Catted Y pipe. More simple and straight forward.

 

My bet would be that you would still throw a CEL, but I don't know for sure. I am curious to find out (if you indeed do keep the stock Y pipe and Cats).

 

Good luck!

 

PS - Maryland Speed has great prices on the Kooks setups if you call them directly.

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well that's what I'm

Looking for if I should go short or long? Looking to see if anyone else hs already done this before? I need info ASAP lol.

 

Is the headers and cat setup you said sold as a set or separate?

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

If you are going with LT and using that companies catted Y pipe you will throw O2 codes, they will be the rear O2 codes. No way around it, caused by the longer warm up time from the after market cats being moved further back from the engine which causes longer warm up times for the cats which is what trips the rear O2 efficiency codes.

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

I think you need to look into this a bit more. Sounds as if you need to do a little more research. (I say this in the nicest way)

 

Are you going to tune the truck? If not, then I suggest not going with headers at this point.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Correct, if you are adamant about not tuning then I would skip long tube headers and either check into shorties or else maybe try using the manifolds from another GM vehicle (IE the new C7 Z06 manifolds). Thought the gains and cost may not be worth it.

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well here's the deal. I was thinking about tuning it and wanting too but this person at the service department told me that if I start tuning my truck that it could blow up my engine???

 

Dunno how accurate this is.

 

I don't mind going for short headers. If they go into the OEM cats. I'm looking into headers for the gain in sound. You mention that I wouldn't see much a change?

 

So my sound wouldn't change at all?

 

I'm going to the guy to look at my truck today. Haha. Does kooks make short headers?

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

If you're really only after sound, swap out your muffler or catback exhaust. Headers will increase sound on the truck, but from what you are saying, I don't know if you're ready to do this yet. Muffler swap will get you the same results, a sound change. You also won't have to worry about tuning or check engine lights, etc.

 

Your tech might be right about the truck blowing up, if you were tuning your truck yourself with no tuning experience. However, if you have someone with knowledge on tuning, tune the truck, then you're in good hands and will be happy with the results in most cases.

markreed Enthusiast

markreed

Posted
Posted

Stock manifolds on your truck are great. Even a very quality set of aftermarket shorties will net very minimal gains or significantly alter the sounds. Cats will keep the sound down.

 

I never recommend shorties on these trucks just due to the lack of return. As other have said, a muffler will give you a large change in tone. Long tubes will give you a nice bump in power all through the powerband, but it come with a sacrifice (should tune, check engine light, more drive train noise...)

 

You need to decide what you are comfortable living with. It sounds like what you are after would be met with a muffler change. If you are not pleased then revisit in a few months.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay so update. I just left the muffler shop and was talking to a guy up there and he said our trucks have 3 CATs would removing the 3rd cat still cause a code to come up, would this help with sound?

 

I love my super 10 flowmaster. I am just curious if I remove the CATs could I just buy a diablo tuner and have the code removed?

 

This will only void my exhaust warrenty right?

cmysstailights Enthusiast

cmysstailights

Posted
Posted

From my understanding u need a full custome tune to tune out the cats. Years ago slp used to sell o2 simms, noone sells them anymore. I have a 10 2ssrs camaro. Did long tubes with cats, needed o2 extension harness. Had to get a tune which i knew i would need one. Not my first modded car. I gained over 30 rwhp with headers n a tune.

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

Okay so update. I just left the muffler shop and was talking to a guy up there and he said our trucks have 3 CATs would removing the 3rd cat still cause a code to come up, would this help with sound?

 

I love my super 10 flowmaster. I am just curious if I remove the CATs could I just buy a diablo tuner and have the code removed?

 

This will only void my exhaust warrenty right?

 

Didn't know you had a super 10 already. Sounds like you're going for Nascar loud ;).

 

When you had your super 10 put in, did you remove the resonator as well?

 

Any tune / handheld tuner can void your full warranty through your dealership. It all depends on your relationship with them is. I have no idea what the exhaust warranty is, besides the cats being warrantied for a certain time frame.

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Didn't know you had a super 10 already. Sounds like you're going for Nascar loud ;).

 

When you had your super 10 put in, did you remove the resonator as well?

 

Any tune / handheld tuner can void your full warranty through your dealership. It all depends on your relationship with them is. I have no idea what the exhaust warranty is, besides the cats being warrantied for a certain time frame.

 

Haha i dunno about NASCAR loud but I want it a little more beefy. So that's why I am wondering if cutting th CATs are worth it? I know some people have. I also spoke to someone about the headers and they said the same thing as other people on here I'll have little change at all.

 

I'm fine with tuning the truck if I delete the CATs I mean. Idk. What do you guys think?

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

Catless with a Super10 will be definitely be loud.

 

Listen to some of the videos on YouTube of these trucks with Catless headers. Mine was borderline too loud, and very raspy, so I put the stock resonator back on. I can't stand raspy.

 

I don't know your budget, but the best result would be going with Long Tubes, then a Y Pipe (catted or not, your call), then a custom tune.

 

I think I have all the dyno numbers and gains in my build thread.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

chrislcrews Enthusiast

chrislcrews

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Catless with a Super10 will be definitely be loud.

Listen to some of the videos on YouTube of these trucks with Catless headers. Mine was borderline too loud, and very raspy, so I put the stock resonator back on. I can't stand raspy.

I don't know your budget, but the best result would be going with Long Tubes, then a Y Pipe (catted or not, your call), then a custom tune.

I think I have all the dyno numbers and gains in my build thread.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Do you have any videos of your trucks sound?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 449 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...