Jump to content

High Country 9.76" differential gear swap from 3.23 to...

Darksky

By Darksky
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

If your installing 9.5 parts into a 9.76 I will do this...I will swap you a 9.5 with 8000 miles for your 9.76 since your swapping out carriers anyhow.

 

RT

Darksky Enthusiast

Darksky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I spoke with East Coast Gear Supply today.

 

3.73 gears for the 9.76 (not 9.5 modified to fit, but actual 9.76 housing gears) Manufactured by AAM (stock):

 

Rear complete set: $385

Front gear: $245

Front kit: $ 30

 

Parts total- $660 plus shipping.

Labor estimate- +/- $900

Let's say roughly $1,600 out the door.

 

I think that is very reasonable.

 

I know a lot of people are against the G80. Maybe I have been fortunate but I have put 273K miles on one from an 05 Silverado regeared to 4.56 without a problem and 176K on a 01 Silverado with stock 3.43 without any hint of trouble. Now that I have bragged on them, this one will probably EXPLODE tomorrow.

 

Anyway, I think this is the route I will pursue. It is readily available and affordable...

 

Thoughts???

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

I can get the 3.73 or 4.10 for same price, was already looking to put the guts of the 9.5 in my 9.76 so I could get a real posi or true trac and ditch g80. None of the aftermarket is making a replacement for the g80 in the 9.76

 

Got quoted $3000 for front and rear, the parts are $1900

Look at my post 17... I will swap you a 2014 9.5 with 8000 miles for you 9.76 since your gonna do all of that work switching carrier and gears.

 

RT

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

I spoke with East Coast Gear Supply today.

 

3.73 gears for the 9.76 (not 9.5 modified to fit, but actual 9.76 housing gears) Manufactured by AAM (stock):

 

Rear complete set: $385

Front gear: $245

Front kit: $ 30

 

Parts total- $660 plus shipping.

Labor estimate- +/- $900

Let's say roughly $1,600 out the door.

 

I think that is very reasonable.

 

I know a lot of people are against the G80. Maybe I have been fortunate but I have put 273K miles on one from an 05 Silverado regeared to 4.56 without a problem and 176K on a 01 Silverado with stock 3.43 without any hint of trouble. Now that I have bragged on them, this one will probably EXPLODE tomorrow.

 

Anyway, I think this is the route I will pursue. It is readily available and affordable...

 

Thoughts???

 

Thats's what I was quoted too...if using the 9.76 gears - no conversion parts.

 

 

Look at my post 17... I will swap you a 2014 9.5 with 8000 miles for you 9.76 since your gonna do all of that work switching carrier and gears.

 

RT

 

 

Distance would make this difficult, why would you want the 9.76?

 

Interested in selling the 9.5?

Darksky Enthusiast

Darksky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I will be putting appropriate 9.76" 3.73 gears into this rear end shortly and the same correct OEM gears for the front as well.

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

My L86 has no problem what so ever turning a E load 33x12.5R20 with 3.23 gears tows great and gets half decent fuel economy. Mind you i did come from a 3.08 5.3L. I dont see the need for a re gear, especially all the way up to a 4.10 for just a 33" tire. Maybe a 37". The eight speed is designed to break up the ratio, if you had a 4spd and 35's it might make sense. Unless your crawling and offroading your high country daily i wouldnt touch it.

Darksky Enthusiast

Darksky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Received a VERY generous quote from 4WP for the regear today, a combination of a store moving "GRAND OPENING EXTRAVAGANZA" and high caliber "like minded" veteran, store manager. Parts are ordered... will be moving forward shortly.

 

I am happily looking forward to the changes. I foresee better off the line responsiveness and a decrease in the "lugging" feeling. I am not betting the farm on it, but I think we may see a slight increase in mileage as well, especially if the added mechanical advantage helps me to keep my foot out of it light to light...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...