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All I know is buy one larger than you think you'll ever need.

Keep in mind that the location of the safe can sometimes be a bigger deterrent to theft, than the actual safe itself. If you limit the space in front and on the sides of the safe, that will go a lon

My stack on with the keypad came with a Key as well as a backup.

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I bought this one on black friday for $950. We store many things in there including electronics, external drives, documents (also have encrypted copies out on the interweb) and keepsakes.

 

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/cannon-ts5950-75-safe?cm_vc=-10005

 

For moisture control you can help the heaters by pulling the moisture out using silica. I bought some larger cloth bags and put this stuff in. Crushed silica on the cheap. Dries out the same as other more exspensive types.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mimi-Litter-Cat-Litter-4-lb-Cats/12018928

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If a criminal wants to get in, he will. Big safe or small safe. Just make sure you have gun insurance.

 

That's not necessarily true and would be an extremely time consuming process. The tools needed would be a bi**h to try an carry alone.............but having firearms insurance is not a bad idea. All of my firearms, safes, and their content are covered under my insurance policy for my garage where all my safes are located. Before buying a separate insurance plan, check with your existing insurance and see what can be covered.

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It is absolutely true. It doesn't matter what level security it has, someone can get in if they want it bad enough. My home owners insurance only covers up to $2,500 for firearms.

 

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=w3HGz44uav8

 

Just 2 pry bars and under 2 mins.....

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  • 2 months later...

It is absolutely true. It doesn't matter what level security it has, someone can get in if they want it bad enough. My home owners insurance only covers up to $2,500 for firearms.

 

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=w3HGz44uav8

 

Just 2 pry bars and under 2 mins.....

This is why the location of where you put the safe, can oftentimes be just as important as the type of safe you buy. if those guys couldn't tip that safe over, they'd have a much harder time prying it open.

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That's not necessarily true and would be an extremely time consuming process. The tools needed would be a bi**h to try an carry alone.............but having firearms insurance is not a bad idea. All of my firearms, safes, and their content are covered under my insurance policy for my garage where all my safes are located. Before buying a separate insurance plan, check with your existing insurance and see what can be covered.

i agree with blackz71...there are liberty safes weighing in at over 900 lbs. my friend drilled and bolted his to the concrete floor of his basement. i can promise you, no one is getting in that bad boy or taking it anywhere. that process would be beyond doable unless youre gone for the week and they are camping at your house ha

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Most safes aren't true safes they are rated as RSC. Residential security containers and not really worth anymore then these tin cans everyone knocks. If getting a real safe u want one that is "tl" rated. American security has one of best bargains and can be considered a true safe. As other mention mounting and location is critical.

 

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This is why the location of where you put the safe, can oftentimes be just as important as the type of safe you buy.

Bingo.

The best RSC is one that's well hidden, not the first thing some low life sees prominently displayed in full view when they approach your home "selling magazines". After "they" return and have beaten your SO/family into submission, you'll be perfectly happy to open any and all.

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I had a John Deere safe in my old house which I liked well enough, but I lucked out when we moved house and our new house already had this on the back wall of a basement closet... 7aaa36b65bdf86531f86b5e7056ce8f8.jpg

My collection is barely into double figures, so it's overkill, but I love the challenge of filling all 10'x18' [emoji41]

 

 

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Gun safes typically sell the "illusion of security" they put so much emphasis on door strength and security when they know full well that no thief will try to mess with the door. With ten locking lugs and a 1/2" plate doorframe, they neglect to tell you that the side of the safe is just a thin guage steel, usually around 10-14g. Any dipsh** with a harbour freight 4" angle grinder could cut a man-size hole in the side of it in less than 15 minutes. The only thing a gun safe stops is a thief from dragging the whole thing down the stairs like a gun cabinet. Stay away from Liberty or other entry level safes. My advice is look at wall thicknesses and fireproofing and pay less attention to the door and lock setup. AMSEC typically uses up to 4 gauge abrasion resistant steel plate for the side walls.

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My neighbor used to work at Sentry Safe here in NY. You used to be able to go right to their factory a few times a year and they would sell scratch and dents right off the loading docks for dirt cheap. They got out of the gun safe business and then folded up and left for Mexico. Loved that place.

 

 

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