Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

yeah, it's easy to go back to 2 way 

 

Do you  guys know for sure if the rears get full range sound?  I'm pretty sure they do, I'm just not 100% positive. 

No clue. I'm not using the rears. In sq you want all of the sound coming from in front of you 

Posted
Just now, Nasty said:

No clue. I'm not using the rears. In sq you want all of the sound coming from in front of you 

 

I know, but I want to send the rear signal to the DSP and send the front signal to the rears so chimes and bluetooth calls come out of the rear speakers instead of going through the DSP.  I can then set the fader all the way to the rear (which will be the front) and the speakers in the pillars will not play any music but will still play chimes and bluetooth calls.  

Posted
1 minute ago, qwank said:

 

I know, but I want to send the rear signal to the DSP and send the front signal to the rears so chimes and bluetooth calls come out of the rear speakers instead of going through the DSP.  I can then set the fader all the way to the rear (which will be the front) and the speakers in the pillars will not play any music but will still play chimes and bluetooth calls.  

Oooohhhhh marv would know that.  My dsp has chime control according to marv    reason I went with that one

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Oooohhhhh marv would know that.  My dsp has chime control according to marv    reason I went with that one

Yeah, I figure just not even bother with the chime control stuff,  it's as easy as swapping 8 wires around in the T harness.  I'll go out to the garage and play some test tones through the rear speakers and find out.  

Posted

My case was different as I had the basic IOB radio so I am not sure if it's the same for you guys. I didn't test for full range butt in my case the rears were attenuated in the headunit (when I installed the new headunit and had the fader at centered the rears were blaring however even when I faded all the way to the rear with the factory headunit they were much quieter)  In any case if your processor has an input gain you can control the volume of the chimes etc. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

My case was different as I had the basic IOB radio so I am not sure if it's the same for you guys. I didn't test for full range butt in my case the rears were attenuated in the headunit (when I installed the new headunit and had the fader at centered the rears were blaring however even when I faded all the way to the rear with the factory headunit they were much quieter)  In any case if your processor has an input gain you can control the volume of the chimes etc. 

So yes, The rears play full range in my I06, all the way down to 20hz,  barely, but its there. They don't really start sounding clear until 80hz and above.  And with the fronts faded out they still play chimes and turn signals.  So I will run the rear signal to the DSP and have the front signal run to the pillar speakers and keep the fader on the head unit all the way rear

Posted
36 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Oooohhhhh marv would know that.  My dsp has chime control according to marv    reason I went with that one

What model Mosconi are you using?

Posted
1 minute ago, qwank said:

What model Mosconi are you using?

4to6

  • Like 1
Posted
19 minutes ago, qwank said:

So yes, The rears play full range in my I06, all the way down to 20hz,  barely, but its there. They don't really start sounding clear until 80hz and above.  And with the fronts faded out they still play chimes and turn signals.  So I will run the rear signal to the DSP and have the front signal run to the pillar speakers and keep the fader on the head unit all the way rear

Sweet and that was how I originally thought of doing but I was going to use rear fill so I planned to put one of the top dash speakers under the dash for chimes etc.  BTW, if you are interested in Mosconi I have an extra 4to6 and 6to8 hanging around. 

IMG_1793.JPG

Posted
1 minute ago, Marv88 said:

Sweet and that was how I originally thought of doing but I was going to use rear fill so I planned to put one of the top dash speakers under the dash for chimes etc.  BTW, if you are interested in Mosconi I have an extra 4to6 and 6to8 hanging around. 

IMG_1793.JPG

Do you need to use a LOC in addition to the 4to6? 

Posted
3 minutes ago, qwank said:

Do you need to use a LOC in addition to the 4to6? 

No need for an  LOC as it accepts high level inputs and has input gain control

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Marv88 said:

No need for an  LOC as it accepts high level inputs and has input gain control

I'll check it out, it still seems like the JL Audio amp is a perfect one and done solution for me.  

Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, qwank said:

I'll check it out, it still seems like the JL Audio amp is a perfect one and done solution for me.  

I really like the idea of  all in one amp DSP's but several I have researched are too limited in user controllable functions. I haven't looked at the new JL closely enough to see if it has enough processing for what I am looking to do but it's a good bet it is a quality piece of gear. 

Edited by Marv88
Posted
7 minutes ago, qwank said:

I'll check it out, it still seems like the JL Audio amp is a perfect one and done solution for me.  

6to8 is the sex

Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

I really like the idea of  all in one amp DSP's but several I have researched are too limited in user controllable functions. I haven't looked at the new JL closely enough to see if it has enough processing for what I am looking to do but it's a good bet it is a quality piece of gear. 

The best part of these app controlled DSPs is you can play with the apps before buying the actual DSP.  

 

I was messing around with the desktop version of the JL Audio DSP and it seems like it's going to everything I need.  The Preamp outs are actually separately configurable so the amp acts like a 8 channel, with 6 powered channels and 2 pre amp channels.  Perfect for what I need right now.  

 

JLa1.thumb.jpg.600bef36ccb277d86e3acdda60d0dc18.jpg

jla2.thumb.jpg.c604d7d55754c2dac1ceb06caace2347.jpg

 

Edited by qwank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
    • Out and about yesterday on a long Saturday drive I passed a lot of Shell stations. My preferred, so I pay attention. Lot's of small town Illinois so not six stations in three blocks like the city.    Everyone of them over a radius of say 100 miles had regular at $4.19 but one which was the one closest to home at $4.15. However Premium pricing varied greatly between 85 cents over regular to $1.50 over. I'm not counting the price of the station with the lowest regular so the reference is the same for the remainder and all within the same brand. However the spread discrepancy holds across all brands.     @txab, any thoughts on that? 
    • What are your thoughts? The Chevy Blazer relaunch was an epic case of 'lunchbag letdown'. Jeep Wranglers and Ford Broncos stick out like a sore thumb.    The AI photos do not look like a 'retro version', but shrunken Tahoes. Get away from the 'futuristic look'. I've seen two concepts. One had rectangular headlight like a Rivian and the other way too big headlights (similar to a previous non-Wrangler SUV) should include dual round headlights like the early version.   If not this would look OK   At least it has GM styling (albeit the K2XX) A lot of the images floating around look like Bronco IIs or the current Bronco. Looking at the Broncos in my area (central Ontario, it seems to be a mix of 2 doors and 4 doors, 'mall rated' to ones that could go offroad.    I'm sure a AT4 and AT4X RPOs could be outfitted similar to a Rubicon if the braintrust understood the whole offroad scene. Crossing my fingers that if it does see the light that the front air dam/bumper doesn't extend below the center line of the tire...      
    • I saw this news earlier this year:   https://theautowire.com/2026/06/12/gm-kills-off-chevys-biggest-silverado-trucks-as-sales-collapse-and-factory-fallout-spreads/
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...