Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

How much room do you think I would need? 

I like to leave at least a couple of inches with 8's

Edited by Marv88
Posted (edited)

So my tweeter crossovers came in and I got the truck back together tonight. I'll drive it in to work tomorrow and see how everything sounds. 

 

When I had my speakers out I decided to check the stock head unit with the SMD DD-1 distortion detector.  At 1000hz test tone I got no distortion all the way to max volume

 For the 40hz tone I boosted the bass up 5 notches because I usually will boost it slightly. My results were no distortion up until the volume bar was to the 'E' in volume. Anything past that showed distortion. I checked at all 4 front speaker locations and got the same results at each one.  So I will not listen past that volume until I get the dsp and subs installed and re evaluate.

 

Edit: I want to add this was done at about 12V since I was in the garage and didn't run the truck.  might be different at 14.4V

 

DSC_0906.thumb.JPG.15ac1e4e9709a486fed9c0b224444599.JPG

 

DSC_0907.thumb.JPG.788fba4f745f9d7c4bbd881c4d00546e.JPG

 

 

Edited by qwank
Posted
On 6/7/2018 at 12:30 AM, Nasty said:

Actuslly tbere nkt many active capable 6ch amps. Theres audison and audiocontrol that I know of for sure. Audison might not be enough power.   The audiocontrol is 125x6. Which is fine. You just have to be careful.  Maybe getting a dsp would be best for you and then a jl 6ch.  

 

Welcome to one of the most expensive hobbies 

 

JL Audio has a new DSP/amp.  75w x 6 but also has a 4v preout that I should be able to use for the sub.  This might work. and it's 10" x 6" so it should fit in the lower middle compartment, assuming it doesn't need a ton of airflow. 

 

http://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639

Posted
7 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

JL Audio has a new DSP/amp.  75w x 6 but also has a 4v preout that I should be able to use for the sub.  This might work. and it's 10" x 6" so it should fit in the lower middle compartment, assuming it doesn't need a ton of airflow. 

 

http://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639

Again I'm bias I'm anti jl jaja.  But that should work well. Just seems like a waste to have all that     

 

Look up mini dsp   tbeyre super small and 250 bucks I think.   Or even the new audiocontrol amplifiers 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Again I'm bias I'm anti jl jaja.  But that should work well. Just seems like a waste to have all that     

 

Look up mini dsp   tbeyre super small and 250 bucks I think.   Or even the new audiocontrol amplifiers 

 

Audio control doesn't make an 8 channel. I'll look again, I don't think the 6 channel offers a preout circuit, but I might have missed it when I looked.

 

With The mini DSP I'll still need a separate amp though.   I have a ton of choices at least.  

Posted
2 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

Audio control doesn't make an 8 channel. I'll look again, I don't think the 6 channel offers a preout circuit, but I might have missed it when I looked.

 

With The mini DSP I'll still need a separate amp though.   I have a ton of choices at least.  

Yes. Reason I said the audiocontrol 6ch eas because your sub is already powdered so you would just need 6ch for your active 3 way front stage.  

 

This is just my opinion but at the end of the day those powdered subs complicate things a little 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Yes. Reason I said the audiocontrol 6ch eas because your sub is already powdered so you would just need 6ch for your active 3 way front stage.  

 

This is just my opinion but at the end of the day those powdered subs complicate things a little 

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid the high level inputs on the sub though, and would rather run an RCA off a DSP.  

 

The best part of all these app controlled DSPs is I can download them and play with them before buying anything.  

Posted
3 minutes ago, qwank said:

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid the high level inputs on the sub though, and would rather run an RCA off a DSP.  

 

The best part of all these app controlled DSPs is I can download them and play with them before buying anything.  

Yes.   I'm going a simple 2 way active front stage with a mosconi 4to6 dsp off a 5ch arc audio amp

 

I've learned from my years of audio competition. KISS. Keep it simple stupid. 3 and 4 way active front is nice but not needed at all

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Nasty said:

Yes.   I'm going a simple 2 way active front stage with a mosconi 4to6 dsp off a 5ch arc audio amp

 

I've learned from my years of audio competition. KISS. Keep it simple stupid. 3 and 4 way active front is nice but not needed at all

My feeling as well! 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

My feeling as well! 

I have actually scored higher with a 2 way front than my 3 way with center channel.  

Posted
3 minutes ago, Nasty said:

I have actually scored higher with a 2 way front than my 3 way with center channel.  

My best was with a 2 way Dynaudio set on passives in the kick panels and a single JL 10w7.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

My best was with a 2 way Dynaudio set on passives in the kick panels and a single JL 10w7.

2 way morel front stage with a image dynamics idq 10.  Good ole days 

Posted
13 hours ago, Nasty said:

Yes.   I'm going a simple 2 way active front stage with a mosconi 4to6 dsp off a 5ch arc audio amp

 

I've learned from my years of audio competition. KISS. Keep it simple stupid. 3 and 4 way active front is nice but not needed at all

I'm going 3 way front just because this truck has the room for the speakers. I've always done two way so I want to try something different this time.  

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, qwank said:

I'm going 3 way front just because this truck has the room for the speakers. I've always done two way so I want to try something different this time.  

 

 

Ya I understand fully. Just because there's room doesnt mean it needs to be used up       

 

I think you will be happy though 

Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Ya I understand fully. Just because there's room doesnt mean it needs to be used up       

 

I think you will be happy though 

 

yeah, it's easy to go back to 2 way 

 

Do you  guys know for sure if the rears get full range sound?  I'm pretty sure they do, I'm just not 100% positive. 

Edited by qwank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...