Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Those look great. I have those same rims and I will be getting the duratracs. Does anybody know why some people's trucks rub using this size and some don't? I'd rather not spend the money and time install a level yet if I can get away with leaving it stock and not rubbing with those tires. They don't rub at full lock or anything?

Here are some more pics of mine at full lock. They do not come anywhere close to the front sway bar or any other suspension parts or frame (first 2 pics). And at the back rear side of the tire they do come close to the carpet wheel well liner but does not ever rub (3rd pic). I can slide my fingers between the gap. On the front side of the wheel well there is even more room (4th pic). I see no signs of rubbing or scuffs anywhere and with the closet spots just being the wheel well carpet material I dont see any big risk. And I've had these on for almost 37k miles.

 

I had this exact same tire on my 2005 Silverado and it did rub slightly on the suspension at full lock but not on my 2014.

post-138443-0-61672500-1480272640_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-64085900-1480272898_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-03898400-1480273062_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-02646800-1480273246_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-61672500-1480272640_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-64085900-1480272898_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-03898400-1480273062_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-02646800-1480273246_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-61672500-1480272640_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-64085900-1480272898_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-03898400-1480273062_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-02646800-1480273246_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-61672500-1480272640_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-64085900-1480272898_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-03898400-1480273062_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-02646800-1480273246_thumb.jpg

Posted

Here are some more pics of mine at full lock. They do not come anywhere close to the front sway bar or any other suspension parts or frame (first 2 pics). And at the back rear side of the tire they do come close to the carpet wheel well liner but does not ever rub (3rd pic). I can slide my fingers between the gap. On the front side of the wheel well there is even more room (4th pic). I see no signs of rubbing or scuffs anywhere and with the closet spots just being the wheel well carpet material I dont see any big risk. And I've had these on for almost 37k miles.

 

I had this exact same tire on my 2005 Silverado and it did rub slightly on the suspension at full lock but not on my 2014.

 

Thank you! That really helps. Makes me feel a little bit better about making the purchase. It definitely looks alot better without those little 255's.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

****update****

 

I went to get my LT285/70R17 duratracs put on today. And they rub the rear wheel well ALOT. Luckily I had them only mount one to check. So now I'm back to my 255's all around unfortunately.

 

Looks like I'll have to raise the front 2 inches before I can get them mounted.

Posted

****update****

 

I went to get my LT285/70R17 duratracs put on today. And they rub the rear wheel well ALOT. Luckily I had them only mount one to check. So now I'm back to my 255's all around unfortunately.

 

Looks like I'll have to raise the front 2 inches before I can get them mounted.

That is surprising. I just looked online amd my Toyo's are 11.5" wide and 32.8" tall and the Goodyear's are 11.5" wide and 33" tall.

Mine is a 14 extended cab, z71. What is your 15?

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Finally leveled the front and got the tires on.

 

Didn't get the blocks on the back yet as my floor jack broke doing the front.

 

Alignment seemed good after the level but I got it done anyway as they suggest and now it pulls to the right.

 

So now I'm sitting back at the shop again hoping they can get it straightened out.

 

I think it looks alot better though.

 

Too bad I can't seem to figure out how to upload pictures. It says error file too big.

Posted

Finally leveled the front and got the tires on.

Didn't get the blocks on the back yet as my floor jack broke doing the front.

Alignment seemed good after the level but I got it done anyway as they suggest and now it pulls to the right.

So now I'm sitting back at the shop again hoping they can get it straightened out.

I think it looks alot better though.

Too bad I can't seem to figure out how to upload pictures. It says error file too big.

I'd do the rear blocks before the next alignment. I did the 2" front, then later did the 1" rear block and the steering wheel was off a bit surprisingly. Then I did the front 1/2" ....and had it aligned again. I know, should have done it all at once.

 

 

And I've seen many stock height trucks put 275/60 20's (33" tall) on with no rubbing issues.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well they got it fixed today at no charge. Turns out the first guy that did my alignment didn't have the steering wheel straight lol.

 

And really? Hmm I didn't think the rear would mess with the alignment at all. I guess I'll find out lol.

 

I got 285/70r17 duratracs. Stock they rubbed the wheel well enough I had them take it back off. Good thing it was only a test fit.

 

But now they look great and no rubbing at all!

 

Now my truck looks like it should and I'm happy lol.

Posted

 

Any pics of this and what wheels? Exactly what I was looking to do.

 

And OP - I think you might have a slight bit of rubbing due to that width of tire. 285+ normally has some trimming.

I have 275/70R18 wrangler duratracks on my truck with no issues. I have a Rancho QuickLIFT level though. f28e8f0cad1fcb5e627bdebca4df4e15.jpg99f17e0874ee16aa05c376124b1c3e0f.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm Leveled 2.5 inch on a 2015 Sierra with 285/65/18 and I rub on big bumps slightly and when backing up wheel fully locked it catches my mud flaps badd07052b37c1ee4e630cfa5a1ffa57.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

My LT285/70R17's (17x9 0-offset 5" backspace wheels) never rubbed until I put a set of Weathertech no-drill mudflaps. Now I rub in reverse at full-lock.

 

post-129450-0-68075400-1484590391_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-31155900-1484590565_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-68075400-1484590391_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-31155900-1484590565_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-68075400-1484590391_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-31155900-1484590565_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-68075400-1484590391_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-31155900-1484590565_thumb.jpg

Edited by HondaHawkGT
Posted

I guess each truck is just a little different.

 

It was worth all the work. It's not too tall, just gives it a bit more aggressive stance.

 

Could someone tell me how to post pictures on here?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...