Jump to content

02 2500HD sputtering and losing power

MVP9182

Recommended Posts

MVP9182 Enthusiast

MVP9182

Posted
Posted

Driving back to college this last weekend I started having a weird problem with my 02 2500HD 6.0. It would kind of sputter and loose power, you could step on the gas and the engine would rev but it wouldn't go anywhere. It never stopped running. I had a similar issue on an 01 2500 when the fly wheel broke but that was quick and it just died right there. I was able to drive this truck back about 150 miles with it randomly sputtering and acting like it was going to die. It's the first time this has ever happened but it almost didnt make it back to college. There are no check engine lights but I'm not sure if that would actually be true or not because the motor was swapped by the previous owner and he might have had it turned off. I don't have a code reader here so I can't know for sure. The alternator has been squeaking but I had the output checked a few months ago and it was fine. Any ideas?

Formulabruce Enthusiast

Formulabruce

Posted
Posted

Buy some Throttle body Cleaner ( NOT carb cleaner) and clean the piss outta the throttle body, plate and whole area.. Spotless.. Get the plates too. You'll have to remove the air box and the big hose clamp on the Throttle body area. Good luck !

MVP9182 Enthusiast

MVP9182

Posted
  • Author
Posted

One of my buddies that works at a mechanic shop asked about it and he said the transmission needed a rebuild. Could that be the problem? I really don't want to have to do all that if that's not what's wrong with it

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

If the engine is sputtering and acting like it is going to die, the problem isn't the transmission.

 

Just offhand, I would suggest checking the fuel system, that you are getting good fuel pressure at the rail (there are a fuel rail on each side of the motor, along the intake manifold, should be a port for testing the pressure on the passenger side rail).

 

The '02 has a fuel filter along the frame rail on the drivers side, you might consider changing that if you haven't in awhile.

MVP9182 Enthusiast

MVP9182

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If the engine is sputtering and acting like it is going to die, the problem isn't the transmission.

 

Just offhand, I would suggest checking the fuel system, that you are getting good fuel pressure at the rail (there are a fuel rail on each side of the motor, along the intake manifold, should be a port for testing the pressure on the passenger side rail).

 

The '02 has a fuel filter along the frame rail on the drivers side, you might consider changing that if you haven't in awhile.

I had the fuel lines replaced awhile ago with nylon and a new fuel filter put in. Probably less than 2000 miles on it. Could it be a notoriously bad GM fuel pump? I'm not sure if that's ever been replaced

dewfpo Senior Enthusiast

dewfpo

Posted
Posted

This really does sound like an air/fuel supply issue...... fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel filter/sock, fuel regulator if you have one, OR, an air supply issue like a bad MAF sensor but that should throw a code.

 

DEWFPO

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

yes, it could be the fuel pump, or the fuel regulator that's on the driver's side fuel rail. But get a pressure gauge to check that the fuel pressure is too low is the problem instead of just throwing parts at it.

MVP9182 Enthusiast

MVP9182

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I managed to get it home. It was fine for about the first 45 minutes and then it started sputtering and died 3 or 4 times the rest of the way. Actually had to have my dad pull me home the last 10 miles because it wouldn't start at all. It would turn over and try to start, but the RPM immediately dropped below 500 and could barely keep itself going and then I'd get a "check engine oil pressure message"

Raptordude Enthusiast

Raptordude

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it could be a crank position sensor. Similar to what happened to me. Sensors are cheap, pop one in and see what happens. If that's not it, as others said:

-relays/fuses

-fuel pump

-fuel filter

-dirty TB

-possible bad injectors

-maybe even plugs/wires

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 years later...
Tim G New Member

Tim G

Posted
Posted

Yeah mine just started sputtering coming back after I filled the tank. Its never really done anything that bad before. Sputter then after a little feathering the throttle it would pick back up. I filled it at a new place I've never filled at before wondered if maybe it was bad diesel or something? Mayne dirty tb it does have now 300,000 miles on it?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • haoleboyZ71
      Radio Update

      By haoleboyZ71 · Posted

      If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • Bill Lemmond
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Bill Lemmond · Posted

      2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • Atlas
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Atlas · Posted

      +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...