Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The same thing has happened to me in my 2014 5.3L, 150K+. Drove all day without issue but when at a mile away from my house, the fans started up at very high speed. The internal temp gauge was no where near midway and outside temp was about 40 degrees F. I unplugged the negative battery terminal for a second (10mm socket) which killed the fans immediately. She started up just fine this morning with no residual issues. I'm keeping a 10mm closed end wrench in the center console just in case it happens again.

 

I hope this helps!

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Iam having a problem with my 2014 Silverado LTZ with the fan staying on full speed (sometimes ) when I shut the truck off. I can hit the key again and the fan will stop. I took it to the shop and they told me that it was my thermostat.  That just dont sound rite to me it's not running hot or above 210 as normal. Any information  would be great. Thanks 

Posted
On 2/11/2020 at 4:50 PM, Sha2014 said:

The other thing is watch the volt gauge. Mine is dropping to almost 10/11 when stopped. We checked the air filter so I unplugged the MAF. I was able to get my fans to stop running at high speed once I cycled the key on and off a couple time and wiggled the MAF back and forth. Hopefully it stays working properly! I have a 2014 Silverado with 79k miles. 

I am having the same problem on my 2014 Chevy Silverado LT. when I crank the truck up my fans come on full blast and stay running full blast until I reach my destination and continue to run for another 10 minutes after I cut off the engine???!! I need some answer if you may have any? Seeing you’ve had the same issue

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I just installed HID’S in my 2014 GMC Sierra slt 5.3, I unplugged the Mass air flow sensor to get airbox out and plugged it back in to start up got fans running and check engine light on ??    It’s been sitting for 3 hours during the light install . Now it runs with fans on and engine light on ? I turned it off cause I didn’t want to drive it 

Edited by Determined
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ and I am having the same issue. It started about 2 months ago, the fan just runs constantly and I cannot figure out why.

Last summer, I had to have the A/C  compressor replaced and 2 days later, again blowing hot air. So the dealership had to replace it again.  In Jan, my son found a small package containing the seals for one of the compressor lines ... just sitting up on the ledge right by the windshield wipers.    And guess what.... the A/C is not working again!!!

 

I would love to be able to just add those seals to the compressor line and switch out a fan relay.... that would be optimal for me.

Anyone have any suggestions?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I am currently having the same problem. The truck hasn’t even run you turn it on and the fans are going full speed. I thought maybe running the ac was the problem but it doesn’t appear to be. The fans stay on after the truck is turned off. I was wondering if it is the fan clutch? Any input would be great! Thank you

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Zach9 said:

I am currently having the same problem. The truck hasn’t even run you turn it on and the fans are going full speed. I thought maybe running the ac was the problem but it doesn’t appear to be. The fans stay on after the truck is turned off. I was wondering if it is the fan clutch? Any input would be great! Thank you

Welcome to the site.

 

You do not have clutch fans on the K2's, they are electric.

 

This may help you.

 

 

Posted

I unhooked the battery for like 30 min and it didn’t kick back on so maybe it reset. Will see in the time coming! Thank you for your input and will definitely look at that!

Posted
1 hour ago, Zach9 said:

I unhooked the battery for like 30 min and it didn’t kick back on so maybe it reset. Will see in the time coming! Thank you for your input and will definitely look at that!

You are very welcome.

 

Good luck, and keep posting.

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 12/6/2016 at 8:04 AM, Dnt said:

WYes I had some strange issues with the cooling fan on my old 2014 5.3. The fan would come on at unexpected times and run for a good bit of time when i knew it was totally unneeded. Was intermittent and the dealer said waaaiiiiiit for it................. NORMAL

 

Posted
On 12/6/2016 at 8:04 AM, Dnt said:

WYes I had some strange issues with the cooling fan on my old 2014 5.3. The fan would come on at unexpected times and run for a good bit of time when i knew it was totally unneeded. Was intermittent and the dealer said waaaiiiiiit for it................. NORMAL

 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

This just started on my truck.  Twice in a week. 15 Sierra with 218k.  Ive had LEDs for 2 years and have never adjusted the MAF so I do not think it is related to either of those.  I could possibly see thermostat issue but there has to be a better way to let know there is an issue than leave the cooling fans on.  
 I’ll post if I find the root cause. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...