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2014 Differential Fluid Change


Eddie 70

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Posted

Ok so i finally got to doing 4x4 fluids at 32k miles. I used all M1 ATF and 75W90. Rear diff was black black and watery thin, gear looks good but is it odd that the magnet was in the bottom of the diff housing? Im used to it being on the back of the cover. Front diff was a mucky dark grey still pretty thick little bit of shavings on the mag. Abd transfer case was still bright red but a ton of shavings on the mag.

 

Going to be doing mine whenever they decide to ship my cover? I prefer the magnet on the bottom as it will catch far more ferromagnetic particles in that location. They really should just put a cheap ass/stamped cover on that back that can be drained and filled without taking cover off like the 2500's.

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Posted

FYI I made a polock move and assumed the transfercase used Mobil 1 ATF (dex III). Then i looked into the manual and realized it takes Dex VI. So just to be safe i went and bought full syn Dex VI ATF and re did it today. Dont be a polock, use DEX VI. Thankfully my M1 was left over from a old trans flush so I dident waste more money.

Posted

FYI I made a polock move and assumed the transfercase used Mobil 1 ATF (dex III). Then i looked into the manual and realized it takes Dex VI. So just to be safe i went and bought full syn Dex VI ATF and re did it today. Dont be a polock, use DEX VI. Thankfully my M1 was left over from a old trans flush so I dident waste more money.

 

 

Oh..well at least you can admit mistake!

Posted

Would the Dex III have hurt (especially Mobil 1)? I think the Dex VI spec is just the updated requirement as Dex III was used previously in the same transfercases...unless it was one of those auto-4wd deals that spec something completely different? Doubtful any harm was done...

 

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Posted

Going to be doing mine whenever they decide to ship my cover? I prefer the magnet on the bottom as it will catch far more ferromagnetic particles in that location. They really should just put a cheap ass/stamped cover on that back that can be drained and filled without taking cover off like the 2500's.

I wonder if it's possible to drill and tap a hole for a drain plug? I just thought of this, but haven't gone to look if it's doable.

Posted

I wonder if it's possible to drill and tap a hole for a drain plug? I just thought of this, but haven't gone to look if it's doable.

 

It would be and probably the norm if they were not stamped steel and .093" thick? There would have to be an upset in material like the fill plug to give you some land area for the treads..........

 

All of Which GM could do for the drain plug on bottom of stamped cover......But like others have posted the BEAN COUNTERS wouldn't allow the price to go from 8.00 dollars to 10.00 on the Diff Cover....so we get screwed! GM will just cover this by stating that the Gear fluid is good until year 2050 anyway so drain plug not needed......

Posted

I wonder if it's possible to drill and tap a hole for a drain plug? I just thought of this, but haven't gone to look if it's doable.

Drill and braze a sliver of a pipe collar to the cover and use a pipe plug...I've done this on auto transmission pans, where I have a 1/4" thick piece of pipe collar brazed to the inside of the pan and a 1/8" pipe plug...the plug is flush with the exterior of the pan with nothing for road debris to catch.

 

You could also use one of those plugs for a pre-drilled hole from Mr. Gasket.

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

I change both the front and rear differential fluids and swapped it out for a royal purple product after about 11 thousand miles it was good to see not a single metal shaving in either death even though I have done some heavy towing in fact I rolled from Phoenix to Dallas the cat scale indicated I was 14500 lbs

Posted

Royal Purple gear lubes are good stuff...I ran their 85w140 in my previous 2500 and put around 200k on between drainings, not even a bit of fuzz on the magnet, didn't even lose its purple color!

 

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