Jump to content

Rear main seal.


Eric E. Martin

Recommended Posts

Posted

I own a 2015 GMC SIERRA 5.3L ecotec 3. I have an oil catch can on my truck. Winter is in now and the truck recently started pouring oil out bottom of engine by the bell housing. Dealership told me the lines for the catch can froze and caused the engine to build excess pressure and made the rear main seal to leak. They did fix it but it had to put it back to stock before they would do the repair. I really want to keep the can on the truck to keep all the crap out of the engine. Any advise or input needed.

Posted

Damn never thought about that happening but it makes sense as after all it's not coolant water that's going into it. Maybe the reason the manufacturer won't install a catch can.

Posted

Damn never thought about that happening but it makes sense as after all it's not coolant water that's going into it. Maybe the reason the manufacturer won't install a catch can.

That's why I don't have one on mine, I live on South West Pa and it can get pretty cold here.

Posted

I had acutally wondered about it freezing off during the winter with the condensation / water everyone had posted pics of, I will be monitoring mine and possbile relocate it somewhere close to the engine to keep everything toasty warm encase it is getting to the freezing point.

Thanks for the info Eric.

Posted

Well, on that note, seems like someone needs to engineer a pressure bypass valve for these things, so it can revert back to stock routing should the lines freeze up. There must be a considerable difference in pressure between positive crankcase pressure and forcing oil out of the RMS

Posted

I have heard people having no problems with their cans. I did how ever drain 8oz from the can. I want to put it back on buy have mixed feelings after the dealership said it's the cause of my rear main seal to leak. Thoughts or experiences?

Posted

I have heard people having no problems with their cans. I did how ever drain 8oz from the can. I want to put it back on buy have mixed feelings after the dealership said it's the cause of my rear main seal to leak. Thoughts or experiences?

8 ounces? How many miles and how long of a time period was that to collect 8 ounces?

 

Maybe just a more frequent drain interval would work for winter. But you do have me concerned, I usually drain mine every oil change 5000 miles or about 3 months, I will check mine more often now.

 

I wonder how much is OK to leave in the can before draining say in the summer, anyone know how much the elite 2 can safely hold?

Posted

If you keep the catch can empty regularly you shouldn't have an issue. GM does offer and does put a catch can on some of the vehicles, the reason they are not on all vehicles is because owners wont empty them regularly which would allow the can to become full and then liquid oil would be sucked into the intake track which could cause a hydro-lock of a cylinder in the engine.

Posted

Mine is mounted next to the windshield washer fluid. I zip-tied the lines to the coolant hose so that any moisture runs back to the can. Wherever you decide to mount the can, the key is to not leave any droops in the hose that would create a low spot for water to collect. I have to dump my can once as week to keep the can from filling up. I've thought about drilling a hole in the bottom to run a hose to another larger container.

Posted

How is your system piped

How and where was your catch can mounted and lines ran when it froze off?

 

I changed my location yesterday utilizing the master cylinder bolt, thus cutting my lines in half and keeping everything closer to the motor for heat. I was originally going to install it there anyway, however this location is going to cause inconvenience when changing oil, but oh well just take it off, then re-install it I guess.

 

Posted

I'm going to ask this just because...isn't there also a vent (the "clean side") opposite the PCV system? Wouldn't that have prevented the pressure from building up? I want to remember there is a clean side "intake" that air is drawn into the engine from the intake tract, that is then drawn out through the PCV side?

 

Or am I mistaken?

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 292 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...