Jump to content

Rear main seal.


Eric E. Martin

Recommended Posts

Posted

I own a 2015 GMC SIERRA 5.3L ecotec 3. I have an oil catch can on my truck. Winter is in now and the truck recently started pouring oil out bottom of engine by the bell housing. Dealership told me the lines for the catch can froze and caused the engine to build excess pressure and made the rear main seal to leak. They did fix it but it had to put it back to stock before they would do the repair. I really want to keep the can on the truck to keep all the crap out of the engine. Any advise or input needed.

Posted

Damn never thought about that happening but it makes sense as after all it's not coolant water that's going into it. Maybe the reason the manufacturer won't install a catch can.

Posted

Damn never thought about that happening but it makes sense as after all it's not coolant water that's going into it. Maybe the reason the manufacturer won't install a catch can.

That's why I don't have one on mine, I live on South West Pa and it can get pretty cold here.

Posted

I had acutally wondered about it freezing off during the winter with the condensation / water everyone had posted pics of, I will be monitoring mine and possbile relocate it somewhere close to the engine to keep everything toasty warm encase it is getting to the freezing point.

Thanks for the info Eric.

Posted

Well, on that note, seems like someone needs to engineer a pressure bypass valve for these things, so it can revert back to stock routing should the lines freeze up. There must be a considerable difference in pressure between positive crankcase pressure and forcing oil out of the RMS

Posted

I have heard people having no problems with their cans. I did how ever drain 8oz from the can. I want to put it back on buy have mixed feelings after the dealership said it's the cause of my rear main seal to leak. Thoughts or experiences?

Posted

I have heard people having no problems with their cans. I did how ever drain 8oz from the can. I want to put it back on buy have mixed feelings after the dealership said it's the cause of my rear main seal to leak. Thoughts or experiences?

8 ounces? How many miles and how long of a time period was that to collect 8 ounces?

 

Maybe just a more frequent drain interval would work for winter. But you do have me concerned, I usually drain mine every oil change 5000 miles or about 3 months, I will check mine more often now.

 

I wonder how much is OK to leave in the can before draining say in the summer, anyone know how much the elite 2 can safely hold?

Posted

If you keep the catch can empty regularly you shouldn't have an issue. GM does offer and does put a catch can on some of the vehicles, the reason they are not on all vehicles is because owners wont empty them regularly which would allow the can to become full and then liquid oil would be sucked into the intake track which could cause a hydro-lock of a cylinder in the engine.

Posted

Mine is mounted next to the windshield washer fluid. I zip-tied the lines to the coolant hose so that any moisture runs back to the can. Wherever you decide to mount the can, the key is to not leave any droops in the hose that would create a low spot for water to collect. I have to dump my can once as week to keep the can from filling up. I've thought about drilling a hole in the bottom to run a hose to another larger container.

Posted

How is your system piped

How and where was your catch can mounted and lines ran when it froze off?

 

I changed my location yesterday utilizing the master cylinder bolt, thus cutting my lines in half and keeping everything closer to the motor for heat. I was originally going to install it there anyway, however this location is going to cause inconvenience when changing oil, but oh well just take it off, then re-install it I guess.

 

Posted

I'm going to ask this just because...isn't there also a vent (the "clean side") opposite the PCV system? Wouldn't that have prevented the pressure from building up? I want to remember there is a clean side "intake" that air is drawn into the engine from the intake tract, that is then drawn out through the PCV side?

 

Or am I mistaken?

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...