Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Put it back to stock, it's that simple. Why in the world people change the suspension/steering geometry and tire size and don't expect problems is mind boggling.

 

Computers do everything but steer for you, any deviation from stock and you're playing with fire.

Years ago before computers, sensors and specialized computer diagnostic equipment you'd buy a load of hockey pucks for under $20 and lift the Blazer without an engine light or a visit to a dealer.

 

Now you play with a computer saturated vehicle basically designed for use as a single height "rock and manure hauler" and try to get it to do something it was never designed for and pi$$ off one or more sensors feeding into a million lines of computer code (with thousands of lines of undiscovered errors) designed by dozens of programmers half way around the world and wonder why something unexpected happens. And don't blame the dealers either when they can't fix it because if the computer doesn't give the mechanic exact information related to a known problem, they have no clue what the heck is going on.

 

An excellent example of how screwed up the whole damn system is, is to take a look at a few items in monthly issued GM pubs that advise mechanics on emerging problems not listed in anything they currently have for reference.

 

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/

 

Just look at some of the crazy crap going on related to diagnosing problems using the Communication U codes.....sometimes a steering assist failure can be triggered by a coolant temperature sensor, sometimes a 37% drop in speedometer accuracy if you shift in gear with your foot on the accelerator, etc. etc.

Posted

Alignment fixed my issue. I did see it kinda flicker when I took a pretty sharp turn getting onto the highway though.

Posted

Mine has been doing it more frequently since I switched to 275/65/20 tires. I can't see any kind of rub except for on the wheel liner at full lock. I just finished installing fox 2.0 shocks after getting rid of my leveling kit. Going to be doing an alignment Next Week and see if the issue subsides.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My 2014 1500 Silverado 4x4 has the same issue. The ABS kicks in at low speeds. The stabilitrac and abs lights are constantly on, and the annoying beeping sound activates when i hit a bump with the right front wheel. I removed the front wheel speed sensor and noticed it had metal shavings on the tip. I cleaned it and the issue was resolved. However, 3 weeks later i returned to square one. I believe the wheelhub assembly has gone bad. Does anyone know if this is covered under the powertrain warranty?

Posted

Ive pretty much accepted it and am planning on selling as soon as i can. Really sucks cause i love the truck otherwise.

Posted

I believe the wheelhub assembly has gone bad. Does anyone know if this is covered under the powertrain warranty?

 

No, the hub is not included in the powertrain warranty, and depending on your dealer/customer relationship, it is doubtful it would get covered under bumper to bumper either. It is classified as a wear item and unless a visible defect is present or premature failure they most likely would tell you to shove it.

 

Back on topic, how bad is everyone's TCS/SCS acting up? My 2015 will only do it when near full left turn lock at speed. In 27,000km (17k miles) it has done it probably 5-6 times. I never noticed it before the big tires and level. Definitely not the biggest annoyance. I will take that any day over the issues my 2014 has.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Sorry to bring up an old issue but was anything ever found on this my truck is a 2015 Denali 1500 5.3 with a 6 in rc lift with the stock magnaride shocks on 35s I doubt its my lift but since I've had it lifted for 4 months and have put about 14k miles on the lift and it just started doing this last week as well as when I brake it wants to go left now looked at everything below and everything looks normal

 

 

 

 

 

Figured it out ignore my post

Edited by joeg45
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old issue but was anything ever found on this my truck is a 2015 Denali 1500 5.3 with a 6 in rc lift with the stock magnaride shocks on 35s I doubt its my lift but since I've had it lifted for 4 months and have put about 14k miles on the lift and it just started doing this last week as well as when I brake it wants to go left now looked at everything below and everything looks normal

 

 

 

 

 

Figured it out ignore my post

What was your fix?

Posted

What was your fix?

 

Went back under checked every bolt with a pry bar and wrench found my driver side upper control arm bolts just loose enough to move with a pry bar and some force. Aligned it and tightened them down now I can take all the curves I want and stabilitrak hasn't kicked on once since

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 with a 6" BDS Lift. I also have Stabilitrak issues. I have been through the same trials as many of the other users have described. Tire size reprogramming, multiple alignments, Steering sensor zero, different tires, different wheel offsets, etc. I even tried changing the mounting of the sway bars to limit roll. I started out with a RCD lift and after fighting with that company for months they offered me untested replacement spindles that I found out they were getting from BDS. Instead of continuing with them I took the lift off and put on a full BDS lift. The results were better but unfortunately I still have false positive activations of the Stabilitrak.

 

I believe this to be a problem with the programming in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) not to be confused with the ECM (Engine Control Module). The ECM can be easily reprogrammed with any number of programmers. Changing tire size in the ECM only effects the speedometer. Unfortunately there is not a way to get into the EBCM that controls ABS, Traction Control, and Stabilitrak. As far as I know a programmer for this has not been made other than what the Dealer has. Even then, the programming for these are only stock preloads and of course the Dealers wont touch this issue.

 

For a while I was turning off Stabilitrak by holding the TC button for 8 seconds each and every time I got in the truck. I later found a product made by KP Technologies. It is the FM-20 and they call it their Flexible Memory Module. This unit turns off Stabilitrak for me every time I get in the truck.  I connected this to my TC button harness and if I turn off Stabilitrak by pushing in the TC button this module remembers how long I held in the button to do this for me every time I start my truck. This way I don't have to pull the ABS fuse and I can have Traction Control and Stabilitrak both off and still have ABS.

 

I am still hoping at some point someone will find or develop a better solution.

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 lifted 7.5 inches with 35 inch tires. I am having the exact same problem except mi is when you turn either direction. It's been to the dealership 2 times the abs wire going into the hubs have both been replaced. The have even changed out the electronic brake control module cleared all the codes and it is still doing the same thing. They are now telling me the module is reading the truck is leaning so much in a turn that the breaks are engaging to prevent it from rolling over. Personally I think the are full of shit. I contacted Ruff country they said to recalibrate the speedo and it should solve the problem but we will see. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 442 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...