Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got my LEDs for the bed from AutoZone for like $25. It has 8 LED pods, 4 for each side and I just tapped into the hitch plug wiring and mounted a switch in the bed. Eventually I'll tie them into the cargo light wiring so they come on with the overhead light too.

post-167112-0-71681500-1489697912_thumb.jpg

post-167112-0-71681500-1489697912_thumb.jpg

post-167112-0-71681500-1489697912_thumb.jpg

post-167112-0-71681500-1489697912_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just got a set of the mictuning led lights for the bed. Trying to figure out how I want to wire them? They come with their own on/off switch, so i was thinking about tying them into the factory lights, but also having them be able to come on with the switch.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/7/2017 at 11:41 PM, RPOD71 said:

I got the OEM harness from GM parts outlet (#22878806) about $30, LED strip lights from amazon and some automotive 3M tape. Saved quite a bit over what GM wants with better lighting.

 

Harness is plug and play, there is a spot by your spare that it plugs into and is controlled by the switch in the cab. Just cut the plugs off the light end and splice your LEDs into them. The LEDs I bought have adhesive but it's not that good. I ran the 3M tape where I put the lights, along the top of the rails. I'll try to take a pic tonight at work if I can.

Can you provide some more info as to how the harness works and where to install it?

  • Like 1
Posted
Can you provide some more info as to how the harness works and where to install it?
I did the same thing except I took it one step further. I did a little research and found that a company in Texas makes the connector on the OEM factory harness. I spent an hour on the phone talking to 2 diff technitions simultaneously to get the correct parts. I now have a water proof connection with a factory locking connector.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
20 hours ago, jlozan2 said:

Can you provide some more info as to how the harness works and where to install it?

Look under the truck by the spare tire.  You'll see the wiring.  One has a dummy plug cover.  At least my 14 did.  That's where the harness plugs in.

 

Then use the provisions in the truck and snap the holders into it.  It's pretty easy, but I do remember using string to fish the ends that come up the side if the bed.

Posted

 

8 hours ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

I did the same thing except I took it one step further. I did a little research and found that a company in Texas makes the connector on the OEM factory harness. I spent an hour on the phone talking to 2 diff technitions simultaneously to get the correct parts. I now have a water proof connection with a factory locking connector.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Which company provides that?

Posted
 

Which company provides that?

I made a post for someone else on another thread. It's got way more info then you requested, but it's easier for me to copy and paste once as opposed to several times.

 

You will need a few things but they are all cheap and easy to put together. 

The website

https://www.mouser.com/m_Home.aspx

 

First the 2 clips

571-1-1703498-2

 

Then you need 4 of these

571-967067-2

 

And 4 of these as well

571-1718758-1-LP

 

You strip the wire, put the water proof boot on, then the metal tab. Then you slide them into the plastic clip.

 

Check your polarity before hand by sticking the end of the lights into the wireing harness on the truck. Remember which side is red and connect the connector. Now you can disconnect and you will know where to put your wires.

 

Also, the metal pieces only go in one way, look into the clip ahead of time and you will see what I mean. After I had my ends tegether, I put a little soap on the rubber boots to make it slide in easier.

 

I bought double of everything so a coworker could do the same thing. With shipping, the total was about 12.00. so you could assume about 4 to 6 bucks worth of parts for the parts.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
6 minutes ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

I made a post for someone else on another thread. It's got way more info then you requested, but it's easier for me to copy and paste once as opposed to several times.

 

You will need a few things but they are all cheap and easy to put together. 

The website

https://www.mouser.com/m_Home.aspx

 

First the 2 clips

571-1-1703498-2

 

Then you need 4 of these

571-967067-2

 

And 4 of these as well

571-1718758-1-LP

 

You strip the wire, put the water proof boot on, then the metal tab. Then you slide them into the plastic clip.

 

Check your polarity before hand by sticking the end of the lights into the wireing harness on the truck. Remember which side is red and connect the connector. Now you can disconnect and you will know where to put your wires.

 

Also, the metal pieces only go in one way, look into the clip ahead of time and you will see what I mean. After I had my ends tegether, I put a little soap on the rubber boots to make it slide in easier.

 

I bought double of everything so a coworker could do the same thing. With shipping, the total was about 12.00. so you could assume about 4 to 6 bucks worth of parts for the parts.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Thanks for the info! this is very useful.

  • Like 1
Posted
Thanks for the info! this is very useful.
Let me know if I can help in any other way! In my video, I used my key fob to turn my lights on and off. If you haven't found it yet, check it out. Cargo key fob diode mod.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

Let me know if I can help in any other way! In my video, I used my key fob to turn my lights on and off. If you haven't found it yet, check it out. Cargo key fob diode mod.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I just realized I was confusing two different things.. lol 

 

I already have the factory bed lighting (2 leds- terrible... barely any light output). I thought there was another plug under the bed where i could plug in next to the factory one. 

 

I need to just tap into the factory leds with a LED strip. Only thing is making sure the connections are waterproof, any tips on that?

 

And i saw your video, awesome set up m8! I already ordered the diodes and will be doing that next. However, the factory LEDs have a bit of a blue in them. Anyone know of LEDs that match the OEM?

  • Like 1
Posted
I just realized I was confusing two different things.. lol 
 
I already have the factory bed lighting (2 leds- terrible... barely any light output). I thought there was another plug under the bed where i could plug in next to the factory one. 
 
I need to just tap into the factory leds with a LED strip. Only thing is making sure the connections are waterproof, any tips on that?
 
And i saw your video, awesome set up m8! I already ordered the diodes and will be doing that next. However, the factory LEDs have a bit of a blue in them. Anyone know of LEDs that match the OEM?
Yeah, so you can take the factory lights out. The connectors plug directly into the back of the light. Drop one of the lights and you will see what I'm talking about.

When you get your new lights, cut the wires on the new lights about 6 inches from the end. Put the clips on from mouser, and tuck the extra wire back into the fender.

The hardest part in the mod (which isn't hard at all) is running the harness, and you don't have to do it! Cue the song Easy Street lol

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
4 minutes ago, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

Yeah, so you can take the factory lights out. The connectors plug directly into the back of the light. Drop one of the lights and you will see what I'm talking about.

When you get your new lights, cut the wires on the new lights about 6 inches from the end. Put the clips on from mouser, and tuck the extra wire back into the fender.

The hardest part in the mod (which isn't hard at all) is running the harness, and you don't have to do it! Cue the song Easy Street lol

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Awesome man I'll order the parts and take pics once i'm done!

  • Like 1
Posted
Awesome man I'll order the parts and take pics once i'm done!
Look closely at my pic. Since I went with the strips and didn't want to cut them, you have to start then all the way forward. Kind of in the fender... Then over the wheel well, there is a bump out, if you go through there you have to pre feed it before peeling the tape. Just to save headache. Then the tail end goes into the fender again at the back by the tailgate. Just food for thought

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 18/07/2018 at 8:10 AM, xMEATxHAMMERx said:

First the 2 clips

571-1-1703498-2

Before I place my order, can you confirm the part number?  The manufacturer lists a similar part number that indicates (GM).  Thanks!

 

Capture.PNG

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 445 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...