Jump to content

Fuel + Spark, Truck won't run

FarmerFlansky

Recommended Posts

FarmerFlansky New Member

FarmerFlansky

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

 

New to the forum and hoping you can help.

 

I have a 1994 C1500 2WD with a 4.3 TBI. The other night I was leaving the shop and it did not want to start. After gentle words and persuasion she lit off and I took off for home. About 5 minutes later as I was turning the corner by my house it just sputtered off. I cranked on it some more and it fired up long enough to get back in my yard. Now she is dead in the water. I checked all the basics, cap/ rotor, wires, plugs. I have fuel AND spark but it will not light off.

 

One peculiar thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge slowly climbs and pegs way past hot on the dash while i am cranking, but then falls back down when I let of the key.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

JohnWayne007 Enthusiast

JohnWayne007

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

 

New to the forum and hoping you can help.

 

I have a 1994 C1500 2WD with a 4.3 TBI. The other night I was leaving the shop and it did not want to start. After gentle words and persuasion she lit off and I took off for home. About 5 minutes later as I was turning the corner by my house it just sputtered off. I cranked on it some more and it fired up long enough to get back in my yard. Now she is dead in the water. I checked all the basics, cap/ rotor, wires, plugs. I have fuel AND spark but it will not light off.

 

One peculiar thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge slowly climbs and pegs way past hot on the dash while i am cranking, but then falls back down when I let of the key.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I know you say you have fuel but until you do a fuel pressure test that could still be your issue. Could be a bad fuel pump or if it has injectors could be dirty/clogged. First thing i would do is check for proper fuel pressure and if thats fine check out your injectors and make sure they are working properly. But for a 94 if the fuel pump hasnt been replaced it wouldent hurt.

thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
Posted

First, replace the fuel filter if you haven't replaced it recently. It's on the frame under the driver's side door. Put a bucket or something under it to catch any fuel that comes out and empty the filter into a clear jar and examine the fuel for contamination.

 

I've got that same setup ('94 C1500 4.3L TBI) and I was driving down I-10 at about 65 MPH when the fuel pump went out. It was like I had turned the key off - it just died. I was lucky enough to coast down an exit ramp and right into a shop. There wasn't even a flicker of a chance it was going to start again. I almost ran the battery dead trying and never got even a bump from it. Since yours started again I would try the fuel filter first just to get it running again.

 

Then maybe check the fuel pressure and other things after that.

 

The fuel pump is in the tank and has to come out the top which means you either have to drop the tank or remove the bed. Dropping the tank isn't nearly as easy as it sounds. I've done it both ways and prefer removing the bed.

 

I'm at 220K miles and on my fourth filter. They last a long time so we tend to forget about them. So I would try that first.

 

I'm assuming you've got fuel in the tank :happysad:

 

BTW, I think the gauge does that normally at start up but don't remember for sure right now.

JohnWayne007 Enthusiast

JohnWayne007

Posted
Posted

i agree it could also be fuel filter related but out of all honesty, if you dont know when the fuel pump, fuel filter and injectors have been replaced i would personally just replace them for a more ease of mind. Fuel injectors can become "stuck" and can be cleaned. I had a similar fuel related problem and i replaced everything exepct my injectors, i gave them a good cleaning and blew them out with compressed air and my truck now runs great. Dropping the tank is not all that hard, some say it is but if you put the rear on stands and use a jack and a peice of plywood in the center of the tank all you have to do is unhook the connectors and hoses and filler neck and than remove your two straps and lower it down. Theres also the "trap door" method or like said you can raise the bed. I can drop my tank and have it back up in as little as 2 hours depending on the purpose of dropping it.

 

Also the temp guage is normal, it does it in my truck aswell and also in the wifes buick.

ziptow Enthusiast

ziptow

Posted
Posted

I'd get some raw fuel into the throttle body...if it fires up...you know it's a fuel problem.

FarmerFlansky New Member

FarmerFlansky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got it figured out. The MSD coil I had on the truck must have burnt up inside. It was producing a very weak spark. I had another coil sitting on the shelf at my farm and it fired up and runs flawless after I swapped them out. Thanks for the help.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...