Maintenance

[DavidM310]

Hello everyone,

 

I haven't really posted in here even though I have been lurking for a while.

 

I have a 2014 Silverado LT with the Texas Package (20s, G80 3.42 Gears, Towing Package) that I purchased new at the start of 2015.

 

This is my first truck and can say that I do enjoy the convenience of it. The ride is nice and smooth with your occasional clunks here and there.

 

I have had a love/hate relationship with this truck as I have encountered the chirping noise in the exhaust flap, shakes/vibration and the injector issue.

 

I currently just returned from doing a year in Korea and will be traveling a thousand miles. Figured this was the time to knock some of the 45k mile maintenance before my trip as I am at 42k now.

 

First thing was changing the oil/filter and air filter. I was at 35% but I like to change this pretty early. My maintenance was done by GM dealer with the included 2 year/24k mile package. The last 4 oil changes after that were done in Texas and Arizona by a GM dealer.

 

I purchased 8 qts of Mobil 1 with the approved Dexos logo on it. This is the only Dexos approved oil at the shelf of my local parts store. I will be doing some more research on oil for next drain and fill. The filter I used was a Wix filter. I have done research on Wix and I am really impressed at some of their products. I used to use their filters on my Grand National. Anyways back to the oil change. Everything went smooth and buttoned everything back up. Filled her up with 8 qts of Mobil One and changed out the air filter with a Wix air filter. No picture of the air filter but it was looking pretty crusty. I like to replace my air filter every other oil change and something I will follow as I am now back and able to do all my maintenance. While the oil was draining I kept busy by touching up the engine bay. Looks presentable now.

 

The next thing I did was replace the cabin air filter. Wow was this thing disgusting or what. While pulling out the dirty cabin filter a leaf fell in to the blower making the a/c sound like a cessna taking off. I had to disassemble everything from the bottom and remove the blower to be able to get the leaf out. Once I managed to fetch it out of there I put everything back together and enjoyed the fresh artificial air.

 

Next order of business was draining the rear differential. This is a RWD so I only had to deal with one. This some research on this forum and sprung for the AC Delco 75w-90 versus the manual recommended 75w-85. The process was straightforward, only area of concern is when unbolting the top bolts that secure the brake lines and parking brake. Too much movement will cause them to bend. For a 9.5 G80 Differential the fluid capacity is 2.75 qts. After draining the whale oil I found only 1.8 qts. The diff was under filled by 1 qt. What the funk GM! Few metal shavings nothing serious, fluid looked ok. Buttoned everything back up and cleaned the pumpkin with degreaser. I went for a drive to see if there were any leaks, none to report.

 

The next order of maintenance was dropping the transmission fluid. I read some horror stories of people snapping the crossover pipe bolts. I picked up some PB Blaster and soaked the bolts overnight and hit them again in the morning. I managed to break one nut loose. The other two nuts I just knew the bolts would snap!! I decided not to change it especially leaving in a day on my trip. I went ahead and sucked all the transmission fluid through the dipstick. I started unbolting the pan and once i had enough clearance I stuck the tubing in the pan to suck out the rest. I am proud to report that not a single drop of Dex VI hit the ground! In order to give myself enough room to on the trans filter, I jacked the rear of the transmission up just a tad. I first removed the 15mm bolt holding the transmission to the cross member. I used a jack with a piece of 2x4 to raise the transmission up just a hair. This allowed me enough room to remove the filter and gasket. I removed the magnet from inside the pan and wiped the pan down along with the magnet. I reinstalled the magnet in the pan followed by the filter and gasket. I placed all the bolts back in and wiped the outside of the pan using degreaser and paper towels. I removed 4 qts of transmission fluid and added 4 qts of Valvoline Dec VI trans fluid. While the fluid was making its way down the dipstick, I put anti-seize on the one nut I was able to break loose. The other two I will have to work on at a later date. With the transmission filled back up with the same amount I removed I fired up the engine and cycled trough the gears. I took it out for a drive to raise the transmission temp between 160-200 degrees to be able to accurately read the transmission fluid level. Knowing that these transmissions have a thermostat I let it get all the way up to operating temp 195/196 degrees. I removed the dip stick after wiping it down to see that the transmission was under filled. I added 0.5 qts followed by another 0.5 followed by 0.25 followed by another 0.25. The transmission was now at accurate operating level. Estimated fill level on a transmission pan drop should be 5.5 qts.

 

I went ahead and also replaced the Dot 3 brake fluid. I used a very large 100ml syringe to suck all the stuff out of the reservoir. I topped it off with fresh Dot 3. A turkey baster will also work in this situation and can be done every 15k miles or so in matter of minutes.

 

I installed LEDs in the cargo lights and license plate lights as well. I purchased back up LED lights by Phillips but cannot get them to fit. I ended up breaking those. I will order other LED lights online for the back up lamps.

 

Overall this was very straightforward and only cursed a bit. I like working on this truck especially with all the room. My previous cars include a Buick Grand National and an e46 BMW M3. The Grand National was also easy to work on. The M3 was a bit more compact and harder to work on.

 

Hope you guys have enjoyed this. Will report if I encounter any issues on my trip tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DavidM310]

One thing I forgot to mention is that the shifts from the transmission feel really smooth. It has also relieved some of the clunkiness especially when coming to a stop or switching from V8 to V4.

 

 

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[DavidM310]

[tom4221]

Nice post, thanks for the information! I'm getting ready for a road trip myself and filter & fluid changes.

 

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[Bxnanaz]

There's no drain bolt on the bottom of the rear diff?

Good write up by the way

[tnchevy]

No drain bolt on the rear diff which sucks because my last two silvy's had them. Also on the brake fluid, it is good for 10 years and a bunch of miles, states it in the owners manual. If you are just taking fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster you are not really helping any thing. The fluid needs to be taken out of the bleeders because brake fluid does not circulate like other fluids. Also look into a set of speed bleeders the next time you do a brake job, makes bleeding brakes a one man job and very easy. Use them on all of my motorcycles.

[Lgetz]

Very detailed and informative post David! Have a great trip.??

[Cowpie]

There's no drain bolt on the bottom of the rear diff?

Good write up by the way

 

 

Yeah. Strange. One has to move up to the 2500 to get a drain plug on the rear diff.

 

Yes, good write up. To the OP, you could also use 5w20. it is the same as the 0w20 except it stays under the max 7000 cSt viscosity at -30c / -23F vs the 0w20 staying under 7000 cSt viscosity at -35c / -32F. If you are in temps that are above that, you can use a 5w20. And the dealer couldn't tell the difference with a used oil sample if they tried. Both are 20w oils and do the same job. It gives you an option if you want. It may not be on the new dexos1 Gen 2 list that is being developed, but 5w20 is all over the dexos1 list that preceded the new one coming out. I counted 40 of them and didn't get near the end of the list. And your pickup was built under the original dexos1 list. An intelligent argument can be made that a 5w20, in the same product line, has a lower burn off rate and is more shear stable than a 0w20 since the 5w20 uses fewer viscosity modifiers in the mix.

 

http://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand1/

[J-man67]

Awesome write up. Did you re-use the diff gasket? Wasn't aware it was reusable but after buying one last week it actually feels like it could be. I just went through these services. Hit 100k on the 15. Just got a 3rd set of tires, all new rotors and pads, did the ball joints (lowers were bad) , added a leveling kit (and blocks) finally, bled the brakes. Just have to do the trans fluid/filter and diff fluid. Also have an appt to get a magnaflow exhaust set up. Figured after 100k and not doing anything to this truck (mod wise) that she deserved it. After a detail and wash she feels brand new. I'll get 250-300k out of this truck before I get a new one.

 

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[dasimmon]

nice write up! bet she is much happier with the fresh fluids

[STINSAN3]

Nice job OP. Very detailed along with pics.
I need to check on my Cabin Air filter, where is it located at?

[cbrsilv15]

Behind the lower glove box. Remove 4 t15 torx bolts and it just pops right out. You can see the cover for the cabin filter. Remove it and pull filter out.

[DavidM310]

Nice post, thanks for the information! I'm getting ready for a road trip myself and filter & fluid changes.

 

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Awesome let me know if you have any questions. I wouldn't pull the crossover pipe if you are having problems with the 3 nuts on the flange that mates to the exhaust manifold. I had enough room to get the filter out as well as clean the plan completely without removing the pipe.

[DavidM310]

There's no drain bolt on the bottom of the rear diff?

Good write up by the way

Thanks! No drain bolt, aftermarket pans have drain bolt if you wish to go that route. Even though these fluids don't need to be replaced often it gives me peace of mind and also keeps me sane.

[DavidM310]

No drain bolt on the rear diff which sucks because my last two silvy's had them. Also on the brake fluid, it is good for 10 years and a bunch of miles, states it in the owners manual. If you are just taking fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster you are not really helping any thing. The fluid needs to be taken out of the bleeders because brake fluid does not circulate like other fluids. Also look into a set of speed bleeders the next time you do a brake job, makes bleeding brakes a one man job and very easy. Use them on all of my motorcycles.

Good to know this information. I'll look into a bleeder so I can bleed the brake fluid when it is time to change rotors/brake pads.