Questions About WD Hitches

IBDRINKEN · May 28, 2017

So I'm building a enclosed car hauler that is 8.5ft x 20ft that weighs approx 3800. The vechile weights around 4000 that will be in the trailer that will be towed with my lifted 2500. I'm looking into getting this hitch setup and have never used one before. How hard are they to set up and are they worth the money.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Curt/C17422.html

blwright · May 28, 2017

I've never been a fan of that type of friction sway control. I've towed the car hauler with a Husky Centerline, which has active sway control, and currently tow my RV with an Equal-I-Zer. Both are great hitches.

One thing you'll need to know prior to purchasing any WDH is the tongue weight so you can select the proper WD bars. Remember, unless you back your vehicle in the trailer, the engine and trans will both be forward of the axle(s). This will make it very nose heavy.

ShawnR · May 29, 2017

The Curt hitch doesn't allow you to back up. For just a little more money get the E2. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Fastway/FA94-00-1061.html

IBDRINKEN · May 29, 2017

The Curt hitch doesn't allow you to back up. For just a little more money get the E2. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Fastway/FA94-00-1061.html

Good catch as I didn't even notice that but I will still need to remove the sway control when backing up

blwright · May 30, 2017

Good catch as I didn't even notice that but I will still need to remove the sway control when backing up

Just look at WDH's that allow for it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

IBDRINKEN · May 30, 2017

Just look at WDH's that allow for it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So is better the clamp style better than the ones that you have to drill into the trailer.

Blue2500CC · June 3, 2017

So is better the clamp style better than the ones that you have to drill into the trailer.

Are you referring to the Reese Dual Cam/ HP trunion system that the cam arm brackets requiring drilling into the frame? If so, the brackets need to be mounted correctly, otherwise you can have issues with the bolts possibly shearing or the hole becoming egged. There is an extensive thread over on RV.Net regarding this. Dual Cam Thread: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16711501/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1

The Equal-I-Zer 4 way system and Husky Centerline are good systems. I have read some good things about the CL even with it being fairly newer. The Equal-I-Zer system has been around for a while and has proven itself. One thing I read about the upper model CL is that you need to be in almost a straight line to make hooking up the wd bars easier.

The Reese SC system would also be a good system to go with. Downside is it is made overseas now, but one big advantage is the Reese hitch head allows more fine tuning vs the Equal-I-Zer model when trying to dial in the wdh system. But any of these three choices would be great or the DC systems if mounted and adjusted properly.

As mentioned, you will want to try to get an actual loaded tw to know which wd bar rating you need.

Good luck!

Jeremy01 · June 4, 2017

I've been pulling trailers for over 30 years I do a lawn service you can go with just a regular tongue you don't need the anti-sway bars if your trailer is built right in your load is centered more on your axle then your trailer will not sway if it is too far behind the axle that is when you had the sway problem and if you have it too far forward same thing tongue weight so you have to figure where does center of the vehicle weight is going to be at before you build your side's up and put your lockdowns in

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Jeremy01 · June 4, 2017

Also too after you get it built and everything is right when you drop the tongue on the ball and you notice it is going down more than an inch then I would suggest a leveling kit of air shocks for your vehicle to help with getting a level ride

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Dale L · June 16, 2017

The Curt hitch doesn't allow you to back up. For just a little more money get the E2. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Fastway/FA94-00-1061.html

Why not?

ShawnR · June 16, 2017

The specs on the Curt state "Does Not Allow Backing Up".

Dale L · June 16, 2017

The specs on the Curt state "Does Not Allow Backing Up".

I saw that but was wondering what the issue is?

elchilero53 · July 18, 2017

I've never been a fan of that type of friction sway control. I've towed the car hauler with a Husky Centerline, which has active sway control, and currently tow my RV with an Equal-I-Zer. Both are great hitches.

One thing you'll need to know prior to purchasing any WDH is the tongue weight so you can select the proper WD bars. Remember, unless you back your vehicle in the trailer, the engine and trans will both be forward of the axle(s). This will make it very nose heavy.

You want the weight on or slightly forward of the axles or you will have severe fishtailing and control issues. I had to learn that the hard way.

elchilero53 · July 18, 2017

I've been pulling trailers for over 30 years I do a lawn service you can go with just a regular tongue you don't need the anti-sway bars if your trailer is built right in your load is centered more on your axle then your trailer will not sway if it is too far behind the axle that is when you had the sway problem and if you have it too far forward same thing tongue weight so you have to figure where does center of the vehicle weight is going to be at before you build your side's up and put your lockdowns in

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Exactly.