Jump to content

What damage does running the engine low on oil cause?


TimPhillips

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4.

 

I had been taking it to the dealership for all the oil changes and two oil changes ago they did not tighten the oil filter enough. Between it raining non-stop for months here in California and having a girlfriend who parks her leaky car in my driveway, I never noticed the oil slowly leaking out. About the time I would be do for another oil change, the oil light came on in the dash. I checked the oil which registered nothing, added a quart of oil and brought it to the dealership the next day.

 

They acknowledged the loose filter, apologized, and said it would just be best to do another oil change (which they only knocked $5 off for my troubles) and then sent me on my way with a promise with a call back from a manager. That never happened despite two messages left for him. About time for my next oil change and the low oil light came on again. I checked the oil and again it registered nothing, I put a quart in it and brought it to the dealership the next day. They did another oil change and said to bring it in after I drove it for 1000 miles so they could do an oil consumption test.

 

This weekend I brought it back in and they said it used no oil. At that point, I said then the only explanation then would be that they didn't add oil the last time (when it was almost empty). He said that they probably did, but just didn't quite top it off all the way and that the dipstick only shows the last quart of oil. I explained that the oil light came on again and I was concerned that I likely ran the truck on low (and old) oil the last 5000 miles and that may have cost some life of my motor. He basically told me not to worry about it. After a little pressing, the best he could do is offer me a free oil change (after he gets approval from the manager who never called me back).

 

So, my question is. Should I be concerned about any lasting damage this many have caused? Are they handling this appropriately or completely blowing me off? If they are blowing me off, what are my options from here? They seem to have zero concern over this matter. This last guy I dealt with told me he was just hired to fix these kind of things, but didn't even apologize until he saw that I was bothered by the situation.

Posted

Par for the course. They sold you the vehicle, and their only concern from this point forward is to get you out of the warranty period with as little cost to them as possible.

 

If the engine got noisy at any point when the light was on, damage has been done - when there is noise, that means the thin barrier between metal & metal has broken down, and there is contact. Wear occurs rapidly at that point. That definitely shortens the life of the engine, without question. GM cheaps out to begin with on these things, so life is shortened there right from the get. I've got only 90k on mine, and the cam bearings are on their way out, along with the oil burning that started around 50k miles.

 

Guess GM isn't confident in their products to know that you will return to buy another, so they build them to live very short lives to force the other guy in to buy.

 

If this were my truck, I would be down there every day, pissed off, DEMANDING they replace my engine, or the entire truck. I would make it clear to them that you will be contacting corporate if this isn't resolved NOW.

 

That last statement provided you are still under the bumper-to-bumper or powertrain warranty.

Posted

Thanks for the quick reply. It never gotten to the point of getting noisy. Both times, the moment the light came on I stopped at the next gas station and got some oil.

 

The truck is still under the powertrain warranty. Of course the screen is going out AGAIN (been in there 3 times for that) after the bumper-to-bumper is up. This is my first newer GM product I have owned and it has been nothing but problems. I have some weird thing with hesitation at low speeds when I first start it, and it seems like all their techs have only been trained to say either "operating as designed/expected" or "unable to replicate issue". There has never once been any sense of wanting to actually fix a problem, just move me on. This will be the last newer GM product I ever purchase (which sucks because I always imagined myself driving a Cadillac when I retire).

Posted

I know the feeling. I've been a loyal GM fan my entire life. When the time came to finally buy my first new vehicle (the '07 in my avatar that I still drive), I was met with the same disappointments.

 

Brakes pulsated right out of the gate! Had 42 miles on the clock on the test drive. Went back 5-6 times for that - they never fixed the problem. Interior had more squeaks and rattles than my '94 K1500 had at 266,000 miles! Lower ball joints failed at 38k ... then the uppers, 1 hub bearing, and 1 strut failed at 50k ... about that time it started using oil. Years later I find out they engineered the thing to require reprogramming any time certain components were replaced. More money in GM's pocket, since you have to pay the subscription fee to download their software (in addition to the $1,000 J-box and a new laptop).

 

Sad too, since the truck looks great, rides decent for a truck, and has decent power. They rope you in with looks, ride, and power, then wrap it all in a giant shit-sandwich.

 

NEVER again! :nonod:

Posted

Funny how the "GM Customer Service" members here are Johnny-on-the-spot and ready to reach out to the dealership with issues on older vehicles not covered under warranty, yet something like this come up and they are nowhere to be found for help.

Posted

Yep - that's where they make money. At that stage they'll tell you it needs an engine, and replace it ... for $10,000, because they found 50 other components bad in the process.

Posted

A quart low out of an 8 quart sump is not likely to have done any damage. Especially if it's only been low a relatively short amount of time. Find a new dealership and don't worry about it.

Posted

Sorry, but this is the way is see it.

Ya the dealer messed up but you didn't help the situation.

Hopefully you learned to check your oil on a regular basis.

The owners manual has this info in it. I believe at every gas fill up.

You can make all the excuses you want, but you let it get to the point that the low oil light came on. :happysad:

Posted

I read the your post and the trouble that you have had with that dealer. And not even a response from the service manage ( I can't even count how many times I have heard similar stories). Now that being said what I don't understand is why you are still going back. And they are still giving you all these lame excuses. I would and I hope you will find some place to have your service done. I would stay away from quick oil change facility and dealers. They all buy their oil in bulk. And usually the cheapest they can find. And only one or two weights. And that oil goes into everything regardless of what it calls for. And how does anyone know the difference. So shop around and ask friends where they get theirs oil changed. And like the others have posted. The first thing you do when you pick up a vehicle from getting an oil change is the check the oil before you leave the facility. And check it constantly from then on. Don't be your own worst enemy. Good luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 831 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...